Mitre Box Fix

[NOBLNG]

I got this idea due to the mitre box discussion in the “cutting styrene” thread. This box has a very wide slot, so I added some pieces of 1/16” aluminum. I put a layer of masking tape (.003” thick) on the blade for clearance and epoxied them in place. The slot is snug enough now to actually hold the saw up off the bottom, yet the saw still slides freely. I know Les (stitchdup) has done a similar modification using plastic. I don’t ever use the 45 degree slots so I deleted them.🙂 I plan to fill the first slot on the bed with styrene or aluminum yet to get more stability for rectangle stock.

There, the slot is filled

Edited March 16 by NOBLNG

[ColonelKrypton]

Good idea. I will have to do the same to one i have.

cheers Graham

[Miatatom]

Great tip!

[peteski]

That is a good idea for 90 deg. cuts.

I have a miter box which uses the same aluminum extruded shape as yours but in mine the slots for the saw blade are much narrower. Mine is made (or packaged) by X-ACTO.

[Bugatti Fan]

A good idea from Greg to enable the slots to be narrowed for 90 degree cuts. I have a similar mitre box and will use this idea with a twist. Instead of cutting narrow strips to fit into the grooves in the base I will be cutting some pieces of MDF or Plywood to fit between the outer parts of the mitre box making a flat sacrificial base within.

[stitchdup]

1 hour ago, Bugatti Fan said:

A good idea from Greg to enable the slots to be narrowed for 90 degree cuts. I have a similar mitre box and will use this idea with a twist. Instead of cutting narrow strips to fit into the grooves in the base I will be cutting some pieces of MDF or Plywood to fit between the outer parts of the mitre box making a flat sacrificial base within.

you might find the mdf wears down pretty quick. there is a surprising amount of heat generated by sawing and its enough to break down the glue in the mdf. go with the ply and it will last longer

[bobss396]

I think I have some thin-ish stainless steel somewhere... hmmmm. I would also do the 45* slots.

[NOBLNG]

3 hours ago, bobss396 said:

I think I have some thin-ish stainless steel somewhere... hmmmm. I would also do the 45* slots.

In my experience, a 90 degree joint can be made more accurately by joining two square ends at….90 degrees than joining two 45’s, which is why I eliminated those slots. 22-1/2 degree slots would be more useful I think. If you want a 45 degree bend though, you could butt one square end onto one 45 and trim the excess length off the 45.

Edited March 16 by NOBLNG

[bobss396]

I tend to rough cut everything and use a small vise with a file to get the perfect 90 degree end. 

I use a protractor and a scribed line for critical angles, rough cut, back into the vise. Line up the scribed mark and file away. 

A 22.5 angle is pretty handy in a miter box. In machine shops, we tried to use 15, 30, 45 degree increments where possible.

[bobss396]

This is my system for squaring up stock.

The vise I've had for years. Files are Nicholsen, a coarse and fine. Coarse for plastics, fine for metals.

If I double-stick tape a "stop" to the rear jaw, I can repeat sizes to +/- .003 very easily.

[dino246gt]

I need to do this, Greg do you have any pieces of that aluminum left?

I never use the 45s either.

 

[NOBLNG]

I’ll have to look in the garage Dennis. Right now I am cutting the small leftover piece up to make some hinges. I can easily get some more if I don’t have any. BTW, Lee Valley stocks the orange thin slot one, but they aren’t cheap.🥴