astroracer Posted October 30, 2006 Posted October 30, 2006 How many of you guys live where it gets "cold"? I posted this on another site and thought it may be of interest to those of us who paint in the winter.... I've sprayed paint in minus 20 degree weather using the method outlined below. As long as you can keep the body inside when you are finished spraying you will be okay. 1). Before you do any spraying set up an area that you can dedicate to leaving the model in for a couple of days without being disturbed. 2). I put up two of those aluminum clamp on work lights with a pair of flood light bulbs in them. This is a good source of heat while the model is drying. DON'T put them too close.... 3) Warm your paint in a sink (or bucket) of HOT water. Leave the can in until it is very warm to the touch (about 10 minutes) and try to spray before it cools off to much. 4) Make sure the body is warm also. Setting it in your lit (and heated) work space for 15 or 20 minutes should be sufficient. 5) Once everything is warmed up, do your painting outside. Try to do it on a calm day. 6). Once you get the first coat on, bring the model back inside and set it under the lamps to warm back up. Applying heat like this will also help the paint to flow while it is drying. Especially enamel. 7). Repeat the above as necessary to complete your paint job. 8). Mount your body to a secure fixture so you can paint it from all directions. My set-up allows me to hang the model upside down to minimize dust settling in the fresh paint. I use the 3 wire hangers from hanging flower baskets, taping the three wires to the inside of the body. This is very secure, allows me to rotate the model for good coverage and also keeps my hands out of the overspray... use the hook on the end to hang the model from a shelf or wood dowel. This works very well for me. I have a paint booth that I built from an old printer cabinet. I've never used it... Mark@MAS www.mas-parts.com
oldcars Posted October 30, 2006 Posted October 30, 2006 Thanks for the tips. Hate to wait until spring(or later) to paint.
Ray Posted October 31, 2006 Posted October 31, 2006 Cool tip, doesn't get that cold in New Orleans though. Thank god, or I wouldn't live here.
Matt T. Posted November 1, 2006 Posted November 1, 2006 I live in NY, and I paint in my basement. It does get down to about 58-60 degrees down there by Jan/Feb. I'll offer this tip when using Tamiya or Testors small rattlecans - put them in your front jean pockets. Heat them prior to heading down, but to keep them warm for 10 mins between coats, just put them in your pockets and work on another part of the model.
mrglubaum Posted November 1, 2006 Posted November 1, 2006 Good tip! I used to do exactly that when I lived in Idaho. One of the best paint jobs I've ever done was shot outside in below zero weather. I think it was due to the lack of dust and humidity.
halfpint33 Posted November 3, 2006 Posted November 3, 2006 Thanks for the tip.Since it gets a lil cool here in S.E. Kansas in the winter this will come in handy.
Guest Anthony Oteri Posted November 4, 2006 Posted November 4, 2006 I'll offer this tip when using Tamiya or Testors small rattlecans - put them in your front jean pockets. Heat them prior to heading down, but to keep them warm for 10 mins between coats, just put them in your pockets and work on another part of the model. I thought I was the only one who knew that trick with Tamiya! I usually use my back pocket. I heat the can up in hot water as well.
ultraliner13 Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 I never thought about keeping the paint can warm in my pockets. I always kept the paint can in warm water but spent to much time wiping the cans clean before using them Thanks guys. Cheers John Wilson
cruz Posted November 14, 2006 Posted November 14, 2006 They threw me down in the basement laundry room which gets pretty cold since I have a finished basement but not a finished laundry room. Prior to any painting sessions I will turn on my electric heater for about an hour to get the room temperature nice and toasty and I will turn on my food dehydrator with the model and paints inside at about 105 degrees for the same amount of time. I also bought a cup warmer, the ones usually used in the offices to keep the coffee warm at the desk and what I do is keep my paints warm at all times by placing them at the edge of the warmer, the middle is a little too warm and it does a magnificent job at keeping the paint warm no matter if it's a can or airbrushing bottle. Of course working with all these heat sources next to these flamable paints will keep you pretty much alert, at least that would be my advice to anybody trying this at home........ :wink:
Tired of kit bashing Posted March 21, 2007 Posted March 21, 2007 Hey Mark aka:Astroracer I tried your painting tip today in 20's cold and let me say ,all went well. Thank's for the painting tip ,but one question will the same painting tip work with metallic paint too ? I still have time for the metallic paint just got the first coat of base down. I've attached a photo of my build. It's a 63' Nova fastback that I maded into an awb and the donor kit is a Rat Pack awb Nova. Rob
bobss396 Posted March 21, 2007 Posted March 21, 2007 I paint outside all year at any time as long there is no precipitation. I'll warm the paint in hot tap water too, might adapt one of those foam beer can holders in the near future. I do the paint thing, run back inside and go right to the dehydrator with it. Which helps to have a warm body for the 2nd coat, etc. I've heard of guys using fish tanks with drop lights for heat, also copier paper boxes. I guess anything would work as long as it didn't get too hot. Bob
Tired of kit bashing Posted March 23, 2007 Posted March 23, 2007 Well everyone thank's for the information here and all went fine. I just wish I could finish the metallic paint ,but it's started raining outside. Don't get me wrong there's other stuff to do on this project ,but would of like to have finish the painting part. Hey Bob ,does that dehydrator really work ?
bobss396 Posted March 24, 2007 Posted March 24, 2007 Well everyone thank's for the information here and all went fine. I just wish I could finish the metallic paint ,but it's started raining outside. Don't get me wrong there's other stuff to do on this project ,but would of like to have finish the painting part. Hey Bob ,does that dehydrator really work ? The dehydrator works great for me. Good for primer, paint, putty, glue, drying off wet cars after sanding. I use mostly lacquers and like to color sand between coats, which I can do after 2 hours. I've tried it a couple of times on enamels and those take longer, like 8 hours. Mine came with 5 trays, I use the bottom one and made a new surround for it out of chimney flashing, a few pop rivets and I was there. I also wired in a house dimmer switch into the heater circuit which gives me great control if I need to fine tune it, otherwise it will run 135 F which is too hot. Bob
Tired of kit bashing Posted March 25, 2007 Posted March 25, 2007 Here it is final now just waiting for it to dry and then next decals !!
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