New to the game! Partially....

[HEdwards2009]

I've been building model cars for a few years now and have a collection of several different varieties. I've been looking around for some best practices or straight how-tos in regards to sanding, painting, etc. and actually just stumbled across this site. I'm always looking for new methods to make things adhere better and haven't really tried sanding. Never really quite understood what sandpaper and models had in common until I started reading some of the posts here.

I also can't seem to figure out why I can't get my glue to adhere like it should. I've used both Testors brand (toxic and non-toxic) in the red and blue tubes and have been waiting the desired time on the tube but when I try to add new parts they either come apart or fall off altogether. All I ask is that you be gentle as I still consider myself a newbie when it comes to modeling and have found that it is a great stress reliever in my life

[James W]

Welcome to the forum. Learning new stuff is what it's about. I've been building 35+ years and there is always something here that I can learn from.

I would advise you to try liquid cement for joining most kit parts and Super glue or 'CA' glue for joining different mediums like plastic to metal or for when you need two kit parts to hold very quickly. The tube glues are hard to use, they get stringy and you can't really apply really small amounts because it drys too fast. This might be what causes your pieces to come apart.

Anyway give the liquid cements a try, you might even mix same brand liquid and tube glue together to create a viscocity that you like.

Another hint is to wash the plastic kit parts in mild soapy water to remove the oily mold release. Your glue and paint will thank you.

[SSNJim]

I like Testors Model Master Liquid Cement for Plastic Models (SKU 8872). It is carded in a squarish container with a small tube applicator attached. It has worked well for me for years. The "Precision Applicator" works like a charm - you can get just the right amount where you need it without any muss or fuss. It comes in a nontoxic version too, but I have never used that. There is also a Clear Parts Cement in the same package style, that is basically white glue.

[HEdwards2009]

Thanks for the info and welcoming a semi-newb with open arms. SSNJim, I'm also favorable to your last name

Looks like I will be going to a local hobby shop to stock up on supplies. I've also been using some older testor enamels and acrylics so I'm beginning to think that might be part of my problem as well.

[MikeMc]

I did a post called "The Basics" a while back that covered different glues. Here's the info on glue from it:

1-Testors, (or any other brand), tube glue. The familiar old orange & white tube of Testors model cement is still a mainstay on my work bench. It's not used for a lot of things, but what I use it for makes it important for me. I use it for applications where a slower setting time for possible parts adjustment is needed, on suspension parts for example. The key is to NEVER apply it directly to the model. I buy disposable paper plates, (never use styrofoam ones, as the glue eats right through them), & squirt a bit of glue on the plate, cap the glue, & then use a toothpick, (flat or round, depends on what I'm working on), to apply the glue to the parts.

2-Testor liquid cement, (black squeeze bottle, blunt needle tip): This is one of my 2 main glues used in building. It's great for getting the glue on a tab or in a locating hole, or running glue down a seam. It dries relatively fast, (faster than tube glue), but still allows time for alignment & adjustments. This can be applied directly to the parts.

3-Tenax-7R liquid cement: My other main glue. I use this in conjunction with the Testors liquid cement, usually using the Testors for "first stage" assembly while getting the parts lined up, & the Tenax to get the stronger final bond. It dries faster than the Testors liquid, but you still have a bit of alignment time if needed. To put it on, I have a cheap Testors white handle brush that I keep separate from my paint brushes. Capillary action will let the glue flow into seams & the like as you brush it on. The bottle is tall & narrow, so watch out as it is easy to tip over. I've heard that Ambroid liquid cement is as good, but I haven't tried it yet.

4-White glue, (Testors Clear Parts Cement or Microscale Krystal Klear): Safe for attaching clear parts. It also is good for giving the appearance of "glass" over gauges & the like. The Testors is in a squeeze bottle with the applicator as part of the bottle, & the Microscale is in a plastic bottle requiring use of a brush. About the only difference in the two I've found is the Microscale is a bit thicker than the Testors is, (but not as thick as Elmer's glue), which can be helpful sometimes. Drying time for each seems about the same.

5-Aleene's Tacky Glue: Another white glue & my personal preference for attaching windshields & backlights. It dries clear & holds the parts in place well. This glue is available at craft stores such as Michaels & Hobby Lobby, as well as in the craft sections of Wal-Mart, Target, K-Mart, etc. Many local hobby shops also carry it as well.

6-Two part epoxy: Useful for attaching clear parts, & also for bonding resin parts together, resin to plastic, & metal or photo etched parts to a kit. Epoxy is also useful in performing radical bodywork/customizing in attaching the pieces back together. There are alternatives to attaching clear parts or photo etched parts other than epoxy which can yellow over time. Those I'll cover a bit further down.

7-The superglues I use are Loctite or Original Superglue in a pen applicator, (both available cheap at Wal-Mart, Dollar General & the like), & Loctite gel superglue in a tube.

Never use regular model cement or super glue to attach clear parts, as either one can fog the clear parts.

The other 2 items I mentioned I use for attaching clear parts. They are clear enamel &/or clear acrylic paint, (the Testors in the bottles works well for this). These paints work well for attaching head & tail lights & the like. They're especially useful in attaching a rear view mirror to a windshield.

I hope these tips help!

What Mark said........

and PS don't forget to put your name in your sig!

[Foxer]

Just a thought that may be pertinent ... plastic glues work by melting and fusing the styrene. They aren't really glue but a plastic solvent. You must scrap any paint away from the surfaces being joined or you will not get a bond. This could have been what happened to you.

[mr moto]

There's not much I can add about glues that these guys haven't said but I can say "Welcome to the hobby!!" It's always great to see new people getting involved. You've come to the right place to learn.

The assortment in that photo sure looks a lot like what's on my work table - except neater!

[Harry P.]

Nothing much to add to your glue question... the guys covered it.

But I will say this: if you like this site, check out the magazine!!!

[HEdwards2009]

That picture is going to be my new best friend this weekend. I've also starting coming up with some ideas for a paint booth/modeling table combination I know that's a different section so I won't elaborate here. Told my wife yesterday that I wanted a Dremel for Father's Day .

Thanks again guys and the sig has just been updated.

[1955chevy]

Hey Heath

First welcome to the forum.

My two cents on glues

1. I mix good ol' tube half and half with a bottle of liquid cement

and you get the best of both worlds and no strings from the tube glue.

especially what I call sub assembles - engine halfs, seats, differentials etc

2. I like super glues, I use the thin one second and the 3 second thick.

3. I usually put glue on an old credit/debt card then place the glue with a toothpick