Flaring aluminum tubing

[Guest Gassersgarage]

Looking for some tips or how to's on flaring aluminum tubing, they way I'm doing it just isn't working. Thanks

Robert

Edited June 22, 2009 by Gassersgarage

[raymanz]

Robert,If you don't have one you need what is called a flaring tool. If you do have one then the cone is brought down slowly until you get the desired flare you want. The piece thats being flared had to be held in place so it does'nt move either. Without a flaring tool I think it would be hard to get a good flare. I hope this Helps and is'nt made to sound like you do'nt know what your doing,it just takes time. That's always the case with Model building. Ray

[MonoPed]

Try this:

I use the following tools: small hammer, chunk of steel (anvil), knife (since replaced with miterbox/saw), and a center punch/drift that has been filed and polished to minimize tool marks.

Cut the tube to the length you want, making sure both ends are square. I now use miter box and razor saw for this:

Once you've cleaned the ends up, stand the tube on end on a hard surface (a 1/2 thick chunk of steel makes a fine anvil), and set the punch in one end:

Lightly tap the punch with a small hammer untill you reach the desired flare:

And you will end up with this:

You can polish a length of tube to get a chrome-like finish before cutting, and to minimize the tool marks inside the flare, be sure to keep the beveled end of the punch clean and polished. If you want to make long injector tubes for drag cars, cut a piece of hardwood so the thickness matches the length of the tubes you want to make. Drill a hole the same size as the tube, then use a countersink to make room for the tube to flare, and repeat as above.

[Guest Gassersgarage]

Ray, thanks. I have a couple of flaring tools, but they don't go small enough.

Monoped, thats the way I was doing it, it worked fine for short lengths of tube, but when I get to doing stacks that are an inch long they start to buckle and squish the other end. Guess I need a block of wood with the correct dia. hole for the tube to fit in. Thanks

Robert

[MonoPed]

Using the wood block with a hole drilled to match the diameter of the tube will support it and keep it from buckling. You can also slip a piece of evergreen rod stock into the tube for additional support.

[Jon Cole]

Robert, I was going to explain it, but MonoPed did a perfect job, he does the same way I do!

If you want that small venturi tube in the middle, try a small hypodermic needle *CAREFULLY* cutting away the tip before anything else.

[Guest Gassersgarage]

Very nice, thanks.

Robert

[Smart-Resins]

I will have to remember this! Thanks. Jody

[Dave Ambrose]

Looking for some tips or how to's on flaring aluminum tubing, they way I'm doing it just isn't working. Thanks

I've also done this by chucking the tube in a drill and inserting a pair of needle nose to expand the inside of the tube. It basically duplicates the process used to make the 1:1 parts in miniature. I then mark the length and cut it; again in the drill. You can use almost anything that's harder than the tubing material.

I haven't tried this particular method, but you might try running the drill backwards, and using a countersink to get a good profile. You don't want to cut the aluminum, just use the countersink as a form.

[abedooley]

Robert, I was going to explain it, but MonoPed did a perfect job, he does the same way I do!

If you want that small venturi tube in the middle, try a small hypodermic needle *CAREFULLY* cutting away the tip before anything else.

I always wondered how you guys got the tubing flared and where you got tubing that small. Its a good thing my ol' lady is a nurse!!!