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full-fendered five window Revell deuce finished


bluemoose

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Immaculate build. Really nice Candy Red paint and that lowered front end is just the ticket. The fenders hide the problematic tires and leaving the blackwalls was the right thing to do to capture that cool contemporary-traditional vibe. The cowl lamps and tail lights along with the p/e details only serve to strengthen the effect. Really gets the maximum out of this side of Revell's new release. Two BIG thumbs up! B):D

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...is the grille emblem and cap part of the MCG photoetch set? i've wanted to do a "stock" unfilled grille shell for awhile.

Yes it is. At least on the '32 Coupe set. There are also several other sweet bits that are often overlooked, like the p/e trim for the kit teardrop tailights. I also think on this build he's using the very nice p/e license plate surround.

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All I can say is WOW.That is one of the best looking street rods I've seen in awhile.The paint is over the top.I can't wait til the one I ordered comes in.I was going to go w/ the 5.0 motor, but after seeing yours w/ the early Hemi, I'm going that route, I've been saving the blower set up from the Willy's w/ the early Hemi, now I have a place for it.Once it again....a truly spectacular build......

Sam

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I really hate when people in this forum go out to the 1/1 car shows, take their pictures and come back to say that they build this and that!! :lol:;) Do you think we are that stupid??? :blink::P If you can pull that off, I will be doing it too, I don't care what Greg or anyone else says!!! :P:blink:

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Moose...I thought your black 5 window highboy was beautiful, but this has got to be the one of best Revell 32 builds I've ever seen. What's cool is that while the detailing is minimal, the model is still stunning. That is the best scale Candy Apple Red paint I have ever seen...are you decanting and using an airbrush or shooting right out the can? One more paint question; is that TS13 clear? Thanks for sharing... ;)

Edited by Flatout
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Thanks guys for those very kind comments!

Let me take a stab at the questions that haven't been answered:

Flatout: I shot the paint right out the can, and yes, I used TS13 clear.

99GT: Yes, the wheels and tires are kit supplied, as well as the hubcaps and trim rings.

crazyjim: Yes, there is a license plate lurking behind the PE grille. I just glued the plate to the grille shell filler plate, the the PE grille itself sits out far enough from that filler plate to make things look right.

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Called Al's, Venture, Chicagoland, Royal, Des Plaines, Hobbytown and even Hobby Lobby. Nobody has them. I don’t get it. ;) I can of course buy it online but what about my LHS, they want support but can’t get the "NEW and HOT" in stock without me having to special ordering/pre pay it from them ??? I can order it myself for that matter.

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Here's a guy I buy stuff from in the little town of Childress, TX. He charges a lot less for shipping and probably has the kit you want. I contact him by e-mail, he tells me the price including shipping, I send him a money order, my kit arrives a few days later. Reliable as sunrise and reasonable prices. Give him a try.

e-mail: samshobbies@hotmail.com

Stocks 800 plastic kits, cars, planes, etc.

Gary

Edited by BigGary
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Ridiculous, as usual, Tom. Amazing work.

One more question -

I've heard one approach on this, and I'd very much like to hear yours: TS13 is notoriously difficult to lay down wet without it attacking Tamiya's own base coats and washing the color away from corners and panel lines. How do you get around this? Is it simply by building progressive coats with a lot of flash time between? Or do you lay down some kind of barrier/sealer first before finishing with the Tamiya clear?

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Ridiculous, as usual, Tom. Amazing work.

One more question -

I've heard one approach on this, and I'd very much like to hear yours: TS13 is notoriously difficult to lay down wet without it attacking Tamiya's own base coats and washing the color away from corners and panel lines. How do you get around this? Is it simply by building progressive coats with a lot of flash time between? Or do you lay down some kind of barrier/sealer first before finishing with the Tamiya clear?

I just put down one wet coat about one hour after the color coat, and then another wet coat about an hour after that, haven't had any problems doing it that way.

Thanks for the compliment!

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