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Paint Booths & Safe Ventilation?


Synister

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I built my own spray booth. It is a downdraft system and  exhausts directly to the outside through the exterior wall of the house.  The spray booth is constructed from a plastic storage tub that I bought at IKEA. I also bought the tub's cover so that I can keep the model protected from dust after it is painted. The bottom plenum/filter box is constructed from MDF boards. The exhaust fan is from Granger. The exhaust fan is designed so that the fan's motor is not in the exhaust's air stream, so no paint can gunk-up the motor. It probably cost about $200 to build. The exhaust fan was over $100.00.

 

booth_with_car.thumb.jpg.70c6702139551acblower.thumb.jpg.433714fd1149ed4d9954a8espray_booth.thumb.jpg.cd583ad04db76e64b9

This is the ideal setup, as the fan motor is mounted outside the booth, and not subjected to paint fumes or paint buildup on, or in the motor. Nice job, John.

 

Cheers,

Lance 

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  • 3 months later...

quick quesion...I do my airbrushing inside, and actually it is a small room...I have this spray booth with ventilation tube leading out of my window...anyway, I sprayed the whole weekend and my whole apartment smelled from the chemicals...so even though I use mask while spraying and most of the fumes go out, is it still harmful when the whole flat smells of chemicals?

 

thanks...

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Depending on the type of paint, yes it can be. If you can smell it you are breathing it in and wearing it on your skin (can be an issue if you are sensitive to some chemicals like I am).

You might need to check the filter on your spray booth and also verify that the fan is blowing out properly. Or you may need to spray a little bit, take a break, repeat. If you could post the specs of your booth here someone can most likely tell you if it is adequate for your situation.

hth,

Russ

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Hi, thanks for your reply! attached is the spray booth...over the weekend i was using ZeroPaints, both paints and primers, some alclad II paints, tamiya paints, tamiya airbrush cleaner and alclad airbrush cleaner (these smell the worst)..

I think next time I need to make sure I go deeper inside the booth when spraying..I also probably could clean the filter..or even replace it..and close the room door when working to make sure it does not spread to the whole flat..I mean I smelled in my bedroom when going to bed...yuck :D

 

s-l300.jpg

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I've got the same booth. Haven't used it a lot, and only with acrylic paints. I do remember some reviews on it that state it isn't that powerful, which may be what you are seeing. I'm not currently airbrushing, so I am just painting outside. Not ideal, but I don't have a good place to put the booth and don't want to deal with airbrushes at this time anyway. I won't use anything but acrylics with that booth. Some do, but it isn't recommended by the manufacturer so I don't do it.

Being more into the booth has to help. And changing the filter should too if it is getting clogged. If you close your door it may not allow you to get enough air for the booth to flow efficiently. But if built like most places around here there is enough air flow anyway. Worth trying for sure.

Russ

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I finally had a chance to build myself a spray booth. I want to thank Dave Thibodeau for his DIY spray booth suggestions in one of his videos and to Matt Mayer of Gravity Colors for recommending the blower. I was originally going to build this out of a plastic storage bin as in Dave's video, but my neighbor was installing new kitchen cupboards and did not want the roll top breadbox. I built a box to hold a furnace filter and a duct out the back to connect to flexible vent hose leading to the blower then out the window. Not seen in the picture is a fluorescent light strip on the inside.

Here is the 6" blower Matt recommended, http://www.ebay.com/itm/iPower-4-6-8-10-12-inch-INLINE-DUCT-FAN-blower-HIGH-CFM-cool-vent-exhaust-/160875914720?var=&hash=item2574f3a5e0:m:mWju6pRNwkhaN7syfQM1NSg. I can spray anything, lacquers, urethane and no fumes in the room.

20160630_220119_1470769517593_resized.th

 

20160630_220101_1470769519342_resized.th

Edited by Mike Chernecki
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  • 4 weeks later...

I made mine out of 3/4" plywood - If you get a helper you can use 1/2".  Also I used a 150 CFM used or surplus furnace fan.  These furnace fans are cheap, $25, but the shipping is high.  You can design yours around a particular size furnace-filter, which are also cheap.  If you build your own, you can make it relatively large.  And I would recommend 2  150 cfm fans.  I paid a guy to run the ducting to the outside; It is just clothes-dryer type ducting.  If you go online you will be able to find articles on the theory of spray-booths.  Read thru these articles and they will give you all kinds of ideas.  By the way, furnace fans are perfectly safe; I think they are called 'squirrel-cage' type fans.  

Edited by fiatboy
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  • 3 months later...

My spray booth is made from a large box with the lid hung down. I have cut a hole in the top and bought a cooker extractor hood. When spraying I put the alloy sprung pipe out of the door next to it,( it also comes with a through wall vent) a switch on the unit has three fan settings and a light. Total cost £40. Here in the UK I can buy a spray booth half the size from ebay or Amazon for £120!

2_zps0c2044fc.jpg

Edited by PatW
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  • 2 months later...

Is this a game changer since its now brushless? From reading earlier posts, the concern seems to be around fumes and potential sparks which should not be anymore with brushless I would assume. Might need two depending on the booth but still cheaper than other options as DIY.

Delta Breez Slim Ceiling Exhaust Bath Fan 70 CFM

"The innovative DC brushless DC motor is designed for long life and low power consumption..."

http://www.menards.com/main/bath/bathroom-fans-ventilators/delta-breez-slim-ceiling-exhaust-bath-fan-70-cfm/p-1459474990078.htm?utm_campaign=9AW-2017&utm_content=Super-Sale&cm_mmc=flipp-_-flyer_hosted-_-9AW-2017-_-Super-Sale&utm_source=flipp&utm_medium=flyer_hosted

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I built a booth at my gun shop where we do custom firearm coloring with 2k products, as well as a bake on product. Both are very toxic to breathe. I used a 12 volt bilge blower which is explosion proof as it is designed to exhaust gasoline fumes. It also gives 270 CFM flow. I power it with a 12 volt power supply. It does a great job in exhausting the fumes out a 4" dryer vent. I am in the process of building a similar booth at my home for my models, which will have about 36" of inside width, top and side lighting, and it will be vented by two of the bilge blowers, with HEPA filters to filter the exhaust air. I intend to exhaust it out one of the basement casement windows. Hope to have it done soon, and will post photos.

 

Edited by redneckrigger
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Is this a game changer since its now brushless? From reading earlier posts, the concern seems to be around fumes and potential sparks which should not be anymore with brushless I would assume. Might need two depending on the booth but still cheaper than other options as DIY.

Delta Breez Slim Ceiling Exhaust Bath Fan 70 CFM

"The innovative DC brushless DC motor is designed for long life and low power consumption..."

http://www.menards.com/main/bath/bathroom-fans-ventilators/delta-breez-slim-ceiling-exhaust-bath-fan-70-cfm/p-1459474990078.htm?utm_campaign=9AW-2017&utm_content=Super-Sale&cm_mmc=flipp-_-flyer_hosted-_-9AW-2017-_-Super-Sale&utm_source=flipp&utm_medium=flyer_hosted

Well, AC induction motors (which are also brushless by design) have been widely used for all sorts of fan applications for many, many  decades. From tabletop fans to exhaust fans. Many power tools (like bench grinders, band saws, etc.) also use them.Those are very simple (no electronics required to drive them).  They just need AC power (which is widely available everywhere).  Not sure what real advantage a DC brushless motor has over the AC induction motor. Maybe they use slightly less power than the SC motors but the AC motors are dead-reliable (since they are very simple and robust).  One disadvantage is that their speed depends on the frequency of the AC on which they run, so speed control is not easy to accomplish. But that is ok as in the applications they are used for, speed control is not required.

AC induction motors have been around as long as the AC household power has been around. (that is over 100 years!).

 

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Well, AC induction motors (which are also brushless by design) have been widely used for all sorts of fan applications for many, many  decades. From tabletop fans to exhaust fans. Many power tools (like bench grinders, band saws, etc.) also use them.Those are very simple (no electronics required to drive them).  They just need AC power (which is widely available everywhere).  Not sure what real advantage a DC brushless motor has over the AC induction motor. Maybe they use slightly less power than the SC motors but the AC motors are dead-reliable (since they are very simple and robust).  One disadvantage is that their speed depends on the frequency of the AC on which they run, so speed control is not easy to accomplish. But that is ok as in the applications they are used for, speed control is not required.

AC induction motors have been around as long as the AC household power has been around. (that is over 100 years!).

 

thanks for the background and info peteski. I didn't realize AC were also brushless in this application. Appears then the DC advantage must be for the original consumer/intent.

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  • 4 months later...

Hi, thanks for your reply! attached is the spray booth...over the weekend i was using ZeroPaints, both paints and primers, some alclad II paints, tamiya paints, tamiya airbrush cleaner and alclad airbrush cleaner (these smell the worst)..

I think next time I need to make sure I go deeper inside the booth when spraying..I also probably could clean the filter..or even replace it..and close the room door when working to make sure it does not spread to the whole flat..I mean I smelled in my bedroom when going to bed...yuck :D

 

s-l300.jpg

I have the same booth.  I've had some minor issues with fumes, but usually, as you said, it's often when I'm not spraying far enough inside the booth.  Also, the amount of bends in your vent pipe affects the efficiency of the air flow; keep the vent pipe as straight as possible.   I've found that vacuuming the filter and changing it more often helps.  Also, seal as much as possible around the flange that goes in the window.  You could open another (opposite) window in your abode to increase airflow. (learned this from smoking cigars)  Definitely protect your lungs.  My brother is a chemist in the paint industry and has told me some horror stories about paints and coworkers.

I found similar filter material here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NF2V70W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's cheaper, but not exactly the same as the premade filters, but it's just for overspray.

Hope this helps,

Dave

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  • 5 months later...

Since I first built my booth, I've made several changes. The first picture is the original booth. The plastic hanging down are gloves. I've eliminated them and added a bunch more light. OK, you young-in's go ahead and laugh. Yes, that's four 150 watt outdoor lights, 2 floods and 2 spots. Some day, you'll understand. :D I've enlarged the entry door quite a bit and have a 175 cfm bilge blower ordered to replace the 130 cfm. It worked OK but I want to figure a way to make more of a seal where my arms fit through the front. I'd thought about an old inner tube or something like that. Suggestions?

DSC_2193.jpg

DSC_0018.jpg

DSC_0022.jpg

DSC_0019.jpg

Edited by Miatatom
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/10/2018 at 6:53 PM, Miatatom said:

Since I first built my booth, I've made several changes. The first picture is the original booth. The plastic hanging down are gloves. I've eliminated them and added a bunch more light. OK, you young-in's go ahead and laugh. Yes, that's four 150 watt outdoor lights, 2 floods and 2 spots. Some day, you'll understand. :D I've enlarged the entry door quite a bit and have a 175 cfm bilge blower ordered to replace the 130 cfm. It worked OK but I want to figure a way to make more of a seal where my arms fit through the front. I'd thought about an old inner tube or something like that. Suggestions?

DSC_2193.jpg

DSC_0018.jpg

DSC_0022.jpg

DSC_0019.jpg

 

What if you made some flexible foam (neoprene maybe?) rings sized a little smaller than your arm and attached them to the arm holes. Then you would just shove your gloved arms through them. You could use caps or flaps to cover the holes when not in use to help keep dust out / fumes in.

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2 hours ago, Aaronw said:

 

What if you made some flexible foam (neoprene maybe?) rings sized a little smaller than your arm and attached them to the arm holes. Then you would just shove your gloved arms through them. You could use caps or flaps to cover the holes when not in use to help keep dust out / fumes in.

Thanks for the suggestion, Aaron. I'm not sure where I could find something like that. Right now, I've started using the gloves I was using originally. They're made for vets for birthing cows. Yes, they come up to your shoulders! I tape them to the arm hole flanges, which are 5" PVC plumbing pieces and then put a hose clamp over that to prevent them coming loose or tearing. I used to "put them on" each time and would inevitably forget something or need to adjust the air pressure and would have to pull them off. A hassle. I've started cutting the glove portion off and then put a rubber band around each wrist to seal it off. Works pretty good but I'm always looking for the better tool or set up.

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  • 10 months later...
On 9.8.2016 at 4:45 PM, sopis said:

Hi, thanks for your reply! attached is the spray booth...over the weekend i was using ZeroPaints, both paints and primers, some alclad II paints, tamiya paints, tamiya airbrush cleaner and alclad airbrush cleaner (these smell the worst)..

I think next time I need to make sure I go deeper inside the booth when spraying..I also probably could clean the filter..or even replace it..and close the room door when working to make sure it does not spread to the whole flat..I mean I smelled in my bedroom when going to bed...yuck :D

 

s-l300.jpg

 

On 9.8.2016 at 6:39 PM, russosborne said:

I've got the same booth. Haven't used it a lot, and only with acrylic paints. I do remember some reviews on it that state it isn't that powerful, which may be what you are seeing. I'm not currently airbrushing, so I am just painting outside. Not ideal, but I don't have a good place to put the booth and don't want to deal with airbrushes at this time anyway. I won't use anything but acrylics with that booth. Some do, but it isn't recommended by the manufacturer so I don't do it.

Being more into the booth has to help. And changing the filter should too if it is getting clogged. If you close your door it may not allow you to get enough air for the booth to flow efficiently. But if built like most places around here there is enough air flow anyway. Worth trying for sure.

I too have that booth... Some comments on that from my side after some years of experience with it. First off, the filter material is consisting of two parts. The outer part (blue on one side, white on the other) and the inner part (black filter). That is, if the product is sold the same way as in Germany. However, the black filter is only for using without the vent pipe. If you DO use the vent pipe, the black filter is NOT required (as per the user's instructions) which will result into a better airflow performance! Speaking of which, some people complain about the airflow performance being poor but 3 cubic meters/ minute of suction capacity aren't that bad. And it's not only about those specs, it's also about the right size of the booth. I found that out after I built a much bigger DIY spraybooth from a plastic box which had a much stronger suction unit in it. That didn't work half as good as this one because of the size of the booth, it actually took much longer for the fumes to be absorbed.

If you are using some really toxic stuff like e.g. Zero Paints, there may be no doubt that despite using this booth you'll additionally have to ventilate the room for at least an hour or so. The booth will help you catch the spray mist and some of the fumes, but a lot of that unhealthy stink will still be in the air!

Personally I am using the booth with a rather long vent pipe (around 5 meters), with the pipe being connected to a wall vent. This is because my spraying table is that far from the wall vent. With regards to the long vent pipe I have installed an additional circular in-line fan at the end of the vent pipe, close to the wall vent. This way it works fine for me but as I said, it still takes thorough room ventilation after the paint job.

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  • 1 month later...
On ‎8‎/‎8‎/‎2016 at 7:49 AM, sopis said:

quick quesion...I do my airbrushing inside, and actually it is a small room...I have this spray booth with ventilation tube leading out of my window...anyway, I sprayed the whole weekend and my whole apartment smelled from the chemicals...so even though I use mask while spraying and most of the fumes go out, is it still harmful when the whole flat smells of chemicals?

 

thanks...

You may want to consider adding a Charcoal filter into the exhaust stream, that is something that could help with the fumes, or you consider using less harmful Acrylic paints. although I have a Modeler Friend who has been using the same paint system for over 40 years, and acts like it would be the end of the world to switch to a different system.

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2 hours ago, my80malibu said:
On 8.8.2016 at 4:49 PM, sopis said:

quick quesion...I do my airbrushing inside, and actually it is a small room...I have this spray booth with ventilation tube leading out of my window...anyway, I sprayed the whole weekend and my whole apartment smelled from the chemicals...so even though I use mask while spraying and most of the fumes go out, is it still harmful when the whole flat smells of chemicals?

 

thanks...

You may want to consider adding a Charcoal filter into the exhaust stream, that is something that could help with the fumes, or you consider using less harmful Acrylic paints. although I have a Modeler Friend who has been using the same paint system for over 40 years, and acts like it would be the end of the world to switch to a different system.

From my experience, those open paint booths for modellers are mostly designed to get rid of the paint spray rather than the chemical smell. If you spray paints that need thinning or cleaning with the real stinky stuff, there will be no way past thoroughly ventilating the room for an hour or more afterwards. Especially if the room is not designated only for the hobby. You’re right about the additional air cleaning by using a charcoal filter but be aware of the fact that this will decrease the airflow capacity of the booth.

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1 minute ago, Tommy124 said:

 there will be no way past thoroughly ventilating the room for an hour or more afterwards..

It depends upon the room and fan sizes. If you have a 1000 cubic foot room, and the fan exchanges 100 cubic feet of air per minute, assuming near perfect efficiency, it would only take ten minutes to completely exchange all the air in the room. The difficulty comes in actually measuring how much air the fans moves in real world conditions, especially with some type of filter in place, as you mentioned. Very few of us have an airflow meter to test with, so we're either left using the fan manufacturer's specs, or worse, guessing. 

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