Gullwing doors

[slant6]

I will soon be getting the Back to the Future models (all 3 movies, all 3 kits). I would really like to open the doors. I have never cut open panels on a kit that weren't meant to be opened, so I need to know all you guys know about this, what tools to buy, where to buy em, where to cut, what to do when it is cut, ect., ect,. ect. You guys have always had top notch tips, so lets have at it, gimme all you got.

[diymirage]

when cutting out existing doors (that have the panel lines molded in) the best way to go about it to use the back of a fresh blade

easy does it but it will take some time

once you have the doors out just hit the sides with some sand paper and your all set

[MrObsessive]

I wrote a pretty comprehensive article on opening and hinging doors for the Nov. '08 issue of MCM. You can order a back issue here on the board if you'd like.

I didn't cover gullwing doors, but the technique for opening panels is pretty much the same. The back edge of an X-acto blade is good------some guys also use thread (could never do that one), also a dremel-moto tool is good for grinding out some of the plastic around the perimeter of the inside of the door works great.

Also, (I cover this in the article) you'll need to add some plastic back to the doors once they're cut out. Nothing looks more unappealing (at least to me) than to see a model with the doors cut out, only to see these HUGE gaps around the perimeter of the door!

As far as hinges, I would try to find some pics of an old Mercedes 300 SL Gullwing to get an idea of how the hinges would look. Even better if you can find pics of a Delorean under restoration, to give a good look as to how the doors look when opened.......door jamb pics, etc.

[DanielG]

It is easier but more expensive to use two models. One kit supplies the doors for the other. You can concentrate on getting a good opening and then shaping the doors to fit, getting a closer join (and you have also just added a pile of parts to your spares box!)

[diymirage]

It is easier but more expensive to use two models. One kit supplies the doors for the other. You can concentrate on getting a good opening and then shaping the doors to fit, getting a closer join (and you have also just added a pile of parts to your spares box!)

and that coming from a guy who is to cheap to buy a prewired distributor

[DanielG]

and that coming from a guy who is to cheap to buy a prewired distributor

Not to mention tiny little drill bits at a buck thirty apiece!

[Jon Cole]

Like Bill said, just add plastic on the edge! What could be easier? You DO have plastic sheet, yes? That is just one supply every builder should have... styrene sheet in various thicknesses. I cut out a trunk on a '57 Ford using the back of a #11 blade, added the inner lip to the opening on the body for the trunk lid to rest on (one more reason to have plastic sheet on hand), then placed the trunk back in position... yep... gap is too big.

Cut a piece of plastic, glue it to the trunk lid edge. When cured, I used the moto tool to take the excess 99% down, and finished it off with a sanding stick. I think it takes more work for me to type this out than to actually fill the gap!

EDIT: BTW, in theory, on a four- sided body panel, you should need to add sheet stock to two of the four edges. I think adding plastic to all four edges would make the fit too tight.

Edited March 7, 2010 by Spyder

[MrObsessive]

With the economy being the way it is, it can be too expensive to buy an extra kit just for the sake of cutting out the doors.

..............And with kits costing upwards of $20+ that can be a big OUCH!!

Here's a pic of a Turbine Car build where I needed to tighten up the door lines a bit with sheet plastic. Not hard to do, just take your time to get the contours where you need them.

Hope this helps!

[slant6]

All very helpful tips. I guess Ill just have to get into it and try it. little nervous though. I dont want to screw these up.

[diymirage]

All very helpful tips. I guess Ill just have to get into it and try it. little nervous though. I dont want to screw these up.

one tip i could give you is marking your panel lines with tape and plenty of it so that IF your knife slips you scratch the tape and not the body

[FordSixFour]

If you are nervous about opening doors on the actual model, then I suggest getting a cheap model and practice on that one. This way you will get the feel of opening doors and if you make a mistake all you would lose is time and perhaps the practice model. Never ever use your actual model as a so-called testbed!

Also, the smart thing to do along with using a scrape model is follow Mr. Obsessives advice. If there is one guy who knows how things are to be done, it is Mr. Obsessive.

[slant6]

These are all excellent tips. I just dont think Im ready for this advanced work right now though. I really dont want to screw up these bodys, so I think Im going to leave them as. I will definately refer to thes tips in the future though, Im always looking to learn new techniques. I hope this thread helped someone else, and I would really like to thank you guys for all the tips. Im sure youll be hearing from me on this again soon.

[wgflatliner]

With the economy being the way it is, it can be too expensive to buy an extra kit just for the sake of cutting out the doors.

..............And with kits costing upwards of $20+ that can be a big OUCH!!

Here's a pic of a Turbine Car build where I needed to tighten up the door lines a bit with sheet plastic. Not hard to do, just take your time to get the contours where you need them.

Hope this helps!

yes, this helps a ton!

thanks!

[Jon Cole]

Maybe some people need to watch someone do the door trimming. I wonder if there is anything on YouTube? I don't recall, even though I sometimes feel like I have seen the entire internet like three times now!

[Pete J.]

TriTool/Hasegawa makes a set of photo etched saws that I absolutely love. I bought a set 15 years ago and they have lasted this long. There are two sets. I prefer the thinner set but you have to be careful with them. They only cut on the pull stroke and are so thin that you will never(yes I said never) need to add plastic to fill the gap. Some have teeth so small you will need a magnifying glass to see them. Here is a link to HLJ so you can see them. http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTP-4 They are sold by better hobby stores stateside. If you get a set and practice a bit, I am sure you will love them, especially when working on old, rare kits.