Paint window surrounds and tint?

[Deckerz]

As most of you probaly know im working on a 2006 mustang right now, the first thing i need to know is how to paint the window surrounds and secondly, could somebody post a pic of the results of testors model master transparent black window tint spray?

Thanks.

[shucky]

Mask off the window surrounds with Tamiya masking tape. Apply some light (mist) coats of Model Master black (flat) lacquer. Remove tape within a few minutes while paint is fresh. Works excellent. Haven't tried the window tint though.

[Zoom Zoom]

Black inner window surround? Try a chisel-tip Sharpie pen. Works great with a little practice; it's easy to freehand when you let the chisel-tip take a "set" along the edge of the glass, once it's "set", you can draw the marker back and forth a few times until the ink is fully opaque. I'll never paint window surrounds again, unless the kit already has pre-cut window masks. I easily save an hour or more per model by using a Sharpie and nobody will ever notice the difference. Red Sharpies are great for taillight lenses...I never paint those anymore; a waste of time and paint. It dries almost instantly without any film thickness.

I don't have an example of the window tint.

[Deckerz]

Maybe i should have explained better, its not the outside window surround, its a black surround like a sun strip all round the window.

[whale392]

Are you talking on the inside of the window for the Black strip? if so, mask the outside of the window completely. Next, make a stancil for the inside of the window; lay that in place. Now shoot the Black (sheen of your choice) onto the inside of the window still exposed.

If you are asking to replicate the factory tint strip at the top of the window, that requires a little bit more work, but most of the principles are the same. Mask the outside off, them mask the inside off, but leave a little of the top of the inside of the window exposed. Next, mix up some Testors Transparent Green and Transparent Blue, along with some thinner, into an airbrush jar. Fire up said airbrush and shoot from the stripe up to the window edge with this mix, progressively making more passes at the top of the window (to replicate the fade). Then you can unmask and hand-paint the Black inner window surround, covering it later with the interior color of your choice. Hope that helped.

As to your question on Testors Transparent Black Window Tint, leave it to fogging, fading, and adding custom tints to your paints......it becomes very blotchy when shot on the window from the can. Airbrushing helps some, but it will still blotch. It does work fairly well for 'smoking' taillights, headlights, and turn signals though; and can be used over Chrome to give it a slight 'HyperBlack' look.

Edited May 14, 2010 by whale392

[RatRod]

Your best bet for window tint is to airbrush Tamiya clears, they work much better than Testors.

[Zoom Zoom]

Maybe i should have explained better, its not the outside window surround, its a black surround like a sun strip all round the window.

That is what I assumed with your question; the Sharpie marker is for the inner black surrounds, not for exterior trim (it is too shiny for that).

Yes, the Sharpie is glossy w/a slightly blue tint, but that doesn't matter when it is on the inside of the glass. Go over it a couple times to make it as opaque as possible. On a finished model, you cannot tell that it is a Sharpie vs. the far more labor-intensive drill of masking inside and out, making templates, painting, waiting for it to dry...all completely unnecessary. I will airbrush the areas only if the kit has precut window mask stencils, which saves a good amount of time and much easier than making stencils.

[crispy]

That is what I assumed with your question; the Sharpie marker is for the inner black surrounds, not for exterior trim (it is too shiny for that).

Yes, the Sharpie is glossy w/a slightly blue tint, but that doesn't matter when it is on the inside of the glass. Go over it a couple times to make it as opaque as possible. On a finished model, you cannot tell that it is a Sharpie vs. the far more labor-intensive drill of masking inside and out, making templates, painting, waiting for it to dry...all completely unnecessary. I will airbrush the areas only if the kit has precut window mask stencils, which saves a good amount of time and much easier than making stencils.

Yeah, what he said....

Chris

[MrObsessive]

I built this '05 a couple years ago..............I used BMF to mask off the outside window trim, and hand painted it with Polly 'S' Engine Black. It's a water soluble color sold here at our local train shop. Great stuff as it's not a pure semi gloss, but not a total flat either. Just like 1:1 trim isn't............

Here are a few pics............

Like Bob mentioned, I also used the black sharpie method for the inside of the windows. You can't beat it as far as ease of application!

Edited May 14, 2010 by MrObsessive

[Deckerz]

They look real nice, thanks for the pics.

I will use real car tinting, will be much eaiser and probaly cheaper, the only probelm im facing with this though. I had to repair damage on both sides of the rear window, its now fine sanded and polished to clear but when i add the soapy water for the tint, will it wash off the polish and show the sanding again?

[Alyn]

Just an FYI:

I'm curious as to how well the Sharpie black holds up over time for you guys that have been using int. In past years, we used Sharpies for labeling plasitc terminal blocks as a telephone system installer. I've noticed that after a few years, the Sharpie labels would fade out substantially. In most cases, after a few years, you could barely read the labels. It not quite like the Sharpie ink fades; it seams to evaporate.

Havine seen this as the rule rather than the exception, I hesitate to use Sharpies for model work. Sometimes the piece your are painting would be difficult if not impossible to redo years later with the model assembled and on the shelf.

[Deckerz]

What was the eaisiest way you found to detail the grill and the inside of the head lights?

[Zoom Zoom]

Just an FYI:

I'm curious as to how well the Sharpie black holds up over time for you guys that have been using int. In past years, we used Sharpies for labeling plasitc terminal blocks as a telephone system installer. I've noticed that after a few years, the Sharpie labels would fade out substantially. In most cases, after a few years, you could barely read the labels. It not quite like the Sharpie ink fades; it seams to evaporate.

Havine seen this as the rule rather than the exception, I hesitate to use Sharpies for model work. Sometimes the piece your are painting would be difficult if not impossible to redo years later with the model assembled and on the shelf.

I just looked at a couple models built about 5 years ago using black Sharpie marker for inner window masking, and I see no sign at all of fading. Looks good as new.

[shucky]

... sorry I agree with Bob then! I thought you were asking about the trim on the body (around the windows) not the black areas on the windows themselves. Black Sharpie all the way. Very easy, if you screw up use some rubbing alcohol and remove it and start over.

[Deckerz]

Alright guys thanks for all your help.

Oh my sharpie ran out ah well only £1 from the newsagents.