Donnie- here's the'30 flathead 4

[Nick Winter]

it's never had more than a tune up performed on it.

hope this is of use for your Dillinger, ? Capone build.

[Nick Winter]

No problem Donnie, anytime.

[Danno]

Actually, Donnie, it's been molested to a fair degree. This does not represent an accurate factory stock Model A. The alternator is not authentic (originals had generators) and there should be no plastic insulated wiring at all. The battery on the firewall is not the original location (batteries were under the floorboard in a cradle riveted to the frame). The battery cable should not terminate at a head stud nut. The spark advance control rod is absent. The terminal box cover is AWOL. Of course, the radiator hoses are modern as are the hose clamps and do not represent original appearances. The starter switch is a replacement, which was not at all uncommon as the original switches did not last forever. The headlight/taillight switch assembly is completely missing and jerry-rigged wiring running along the steering column from the firewall to the main wiring harness is totally "shade-tree mechanic" stuff. Oh, yeah: they hadn't even invented plastic electrician's tape in 1930.

One thing, the colors are pretty much right, although some of the cadmium plated parts have rusted out on this example.

It all depends on what you're looking for, Donnie. If your goal is a period-correct, factory-original 1930 Model A, these pictures won't get you there. If you're looking for a 50's to 60's era example of a home mechanic's basic transportation ride, this one is close ... just lose the plastic wiring and alternator and modern clamps. If you're looking for a 70's era knock-around keep 'er running shade-tree mechanic special, this is it.

Just didn't want you to think this was an authentic 1930's period-correct Model A engine compartment. If that's what you want/need, google up some nicely restored A-bones and you'll get what you're looking for.

[Nick Winter]

Actually, Donnie, it's been molested to a fair degree. This does not represent an accurate factory stock Model A. The alternator is not authentic (originals had generators) and there should be no plastic insulated wiring at all. The battery on the firewall is not the original location (batteries were under the floorboard in a cradle riveted to the frame). The battery cable should not terminate at a head stud nut. The spark advance control rod is absent. The terminal box cover is AWOL. Of course, the radiator hoses are modern as are the hose clamps and do not represent original appearances. The starter switch is a replacement, which was not at all uncommon as the original switches did not last forever. The headlight/taillight switch assembly is completely missing and jerry-rigged wiring running along the steering column from the firewall to the main wiring harness is totally "shade-tree mechanic" stuff. Oh, yeah: they hadn't even invented plastic electrician's tape in 1930.

One thing, the colors are pretty much right, although some of the cadmium plated parts have rusted out on this example.

It all depends on what you're looking for, Donnie. If your goal is a period-correct, factory-original 1930 Model A, these pictures won't get you there. If you're looking for a 50's to 60's era example of a home mechanic's basic transportation ride, this one is close ... just lose the plastic wiring and alternator and modern clamps. If you're looking for a 70's era knock-around keep 'er running shade-tree mechanic special, this is it.

Just didn't want you to think this was an authentic 1930's period-correct Model A engine compartment. If that's what you want/need, google up some nicely restored A-bones and you'll get what you're looking for.

the engine black and it's paint are unmolested, Dan this truck was a shop truck since the late 50's when it was chopped up due to rust, the alternator and wiring were replaced in the late 60's.

that's all the history I know, the rest my uncle would have to tell you.

As for the battery being relocated, it was mounted were there now is a hand winch.

[Foxer]

with all the photos you've been posting of the Farm, it looks like you exceeded Photobucket's bandwidth. Will have to check again after the first.

[Danno]

Well, Donnie, I'll be glad to help.

Here are a couple of pictures of actual, accurately restored Model A engines.

By the way, a great engine paint is WalMart's Color Place Hunter Green Satin. I own an accurate, low mileage 1:1 1930 Model AA. I paid big bucks for the authentic Ford Engine Green paint when I restored it, but found the Color Place Hunter Green Satin was a dead-ringer matching color. I only use the real mccoy on my 1:1, but I use the Color Place on models. It's as close as you will ever get. (PS: I believe the Color Place paint is made by Rustoleum.)

Most of the engine components are Ford Engine Green, satin black, bare steel, or cadmium plated which looks like a light platinum or whitish-aluminum.

Good luck with your build. Let us know if you have any questions; there are several people on the boards that have tons of experience and accurate knowledge! Just help yourself to the expertise.

This first engine view shows the Ford Engine Green well.

This second engine view shows the passenger side of the engine, but the lighting and coloring is bad, causing it to have too much of a bluish hue. Try to match the 1st pic's coloring.

[Nick Winter]

Photobucket screwed me it said I was only at 88% I added 1 picture sudenly I'm at 100% the picture was small too, I'll fix them though.

[Danno]

Thanks Danno, how about the transmission? What color is it? I would love to see more pictures of your 1:1 too.

Donnie,

Tranny was Ford Engine Green also. Virtually everything else was black -- more glossy black than satin. On a model, gloss black will get you there. The hardware (bolts, nuts, small clips, cotter keys, pins, etc.) were cadmium plated. The exhaust was steel. The exhaust manifold was painted black but the paint was not high-temp and it burned off quickly.

I lost a computer hard drive with images of my 1:1, but I have a CD around here someplace ... as soon as I find it, I'll post some shots of the old girl.

I have a few shots of a 1/25 Model A woodie that I 'super detailed.' Pretty funny ... I put a bunch of work into scratch-building the brake system components and making everything accurate ... then painted it all accurately (any color you want as long as it is black) ... when it was all done, no one could tell it was detailed ~~~ the details were all so small and everything was black! I decided I'll think long and hard before I do that again ... it's fun getting it "right" ... but the scale is so small no one knows!

Good luck with your build and don't hesitate to ask questions!