Has anyone here ever managed to get good results with Testors Burgundy enamel?

[Monty]

I tried a can of this stuff when I was a kid and was very disappointed because "burgandy" would've looked great on the kit I was painting. Instead, despite doing all the proper shaking and warm water preparation, the end result was more of a boat flake strawberry color.

More recently, armed with my favorite airbrush, I grabbed a jar of the paint, reduced it per normal and shot it over white primer (looks weak) and gray primer (slightly more burgundy, but cloudy). I don't recall having problems with any of their other metallic enamels, so I'm puzzled.

I'd appreciate any tips and accompanying pics of results.

[MikeMc]

Send a PM to Donn Yost......the old man

He is the enamel expert on model cars

[JamesW]

I had the same problem with it, but I plan to try it again.

[Eshaver]

Gee, I wish I had a picture of what kind of problems you're experencing . I haven't shot any of that peticular shade in a good while . I remember I shot a can of it years ago , Uh -1992-3 on a wrecker I built . I used NAPA Grey primer under it and everything went well. Ed Shaver

[Longbox55]

Are you using the rattle can version or the bottle version? I ask because they are different colors, wit the spray version being much heavier on the flake than the bottle version. I've noticed that they've even changed the name on the cans from "burgundy" to "metallic purple".

To answer you're question, though, it seems to do better over a darker basecoat. I've used Steel and dark gray Derusto brand primer with good results. It it will come out a Raspberry (think late '90s S10 Raspberry) color. Black might be ok under it too. I've never tried it with the regular Burgundy, but black works well with the MM Dark Burgundy. which is what i used on this GMC.

[Rider]

I've had good results spaying it over a gold base.

[Monty]

Are you using the rattle can version or the bottle version? I ask because they are different colors, wit the spray version being much heavier on the flake than the bottle version. I've noticed that they've even changed the name on the cans from "burgundy" to "metallic purple".

To answer you're question, though, it seems to do better over a darker basecoat. I've used Steel and dark gray Derusto brand primer with good results. It it will come out a Raspberry (think late '90s S10 Raspberry) color. Black might be ok under it too. I've never tried it with the regular Burgundy, but black works well with the MM Dark Burgundy. which is what i used on this GMC.

My most recent attempts were with the MM bottle stuff. I've always been leery of shooting a lighter color over black, but Bluemoose occasionally does it with Tamiya sprays and they always turn out nice. Looking at the pic you posted, it's hard to argue with the evidence. That's much closer to what I call burgundy. (Beautiful truck, BTW).

[LDO]

Try lacquer. Get some Tamiya TS-74 Clear Red in a can along with some clear blue, either "plain" or metallic. Decant the red into a jar and add a few drops of blue at a time until you get the shade you want. This is one Badger paint jar almost filled to the top with maybe 10 drops of metallic blue added. It's sprayed over Tamiya gold and it's more of a candy brandywine but I'm ok with that. You could mix in more blue and go closer to purple, or get the same shade I did and spray more coats.

Edited June 29, 2010 by LDO

[Guest]

Never had any trouble, take a look at my 28 Lincoln over in the finished section.

[whale392]

I shot mine over a Black base. It came out OK, and gave the added benefit of darker panel line recesses.

[Agent G]

The only issues I ever had was with drying time. Using a can it seemed that it took forever. The paint covered well, and looked fine when it was finally dry. I used Plastikote T235 as a primer.

I've never airbrushed that color.

Manufacturers tinker with formulations and such without ever telling anyone. The color that worked so well a few years ago might just be different than the same labeled can you just bought.

One thing I always struggled with, living in the midwest, was humidity. I'm aware a lot of other factors are involved but weather does play a part.

Anyone wanna chime in here with their observations?

G

Edited June 29, 2010 by AgentG

[Karmodeler2]

I shot the middle car below with MM Burgandy Metallic with MM clear top coat. Had no problems and thinned both with lacquer thinner. I suggest white primers and it takes several coats to get good coverage (about 8-10 light coats)

David

[Brett Barrow]

Which Burgundy are you talking about? There's Model Master "Burgundy Metallic Red" #2705 (Bottle) or #2905 (Spray) and there's Testors' "Burgundy Purple Metal Flake" #1631 (Spray only)? The Testors color and the MM color aren't in the same ballpark, and I don't think they're supposed to be.

Edited June 30, 2010 by Brett Barrow

[Monty]

Which Burgundy are you talking about? There's Model Master "Burgundy Metallic Red" #2705 (Bottle) or #2905 (Spray) and there's Testors' "Burgundy Purple Metal Flake" #1631 (Spray only)? The Testors color and the MM color aren't in the same ballpark, and I don't think they're supposed to be.

Originally - (1973?) Testors rattle can.

More recently - Model Masters Jar.

My point was that I wasn't thrilled with either "burgundy". I posted this same question over on the Spotlight Hobbies board and some people acknowledged that they'd had similar problems - ie the original Testors burgundy was too light in color and the MM stuff didn't cover well. I've airbrushed these metallics for years now, and this is the first one I haven't had a good experience with.

[charlie8575]

1989...I was in 8th grade.

I was getting ready to paint an AMT '65 Bonneville, and bought a spray can of the Model Master Burgundy. I thought it would look really nice on that car (still do.)

What a horror. The paint came out runny, drippy, and some of it looked like green snot in color (!)

I have never, ever, before or since, had a can of paint do that.

I have a jar of it now, and I'm going to try the airbrush method to see if I get better results. I'm toying with painting a '69 Riviera with it, as I think with the right primer, it'll come pretty close to right.

Charlie Larkin

[Monty]

1989...I was in 8th grade.

I was getting ready to paint an AMT '65 Bonneville, and bought a spray can of the Model Master Burgundy. I thought it would look really nice on that car (still do.)

What a horror. The paint came out runny, drippy, and some of it looked like green snot in color (!)

I have never, ever, before or since, had a can of paint do that.

I have a jar of it now, and I'm going to try the airbrush method to see if I get better results. I'm toying with painting a '69 Riviera with it, as I think with the right primer, it'll come pretty close to right.

Charlie Larkin

In theory, it should be a beautiful color. In practice...well, I wish I could show some of the cars the guys on Spotlight Hobbies posted in regard to this subject. I want it to work. Between rods, customs, street machines and luxury cars, there's a need for a good burgundy paint.

Best of luck with your project. Consensus seems to indicate the need for a very dark primer.

[Brett Barrow]

In theory, it should be a beautiful color. In practice...well, I wish I could show some of the cars the guys on Spotlight Hobbies posted in regard to this subject. I want it to work. Between rods, customs, street machines and luxury cars, there's a need for a good burgundy paint.

Best of luck with your project. Consensus seems to indicate the need for a very dark primer.

How about the lacquer line's Honduras Maroon or Toreador Red? They might come close. I haven't used enamels for a long time, I have used the lacquers with good results, though not these two colors.

I would definitely use lacquer thinner to thin the enamel bottle paint, if I was using them again, that seems the best way to get consistent results with enamels.

[Monty]

Honduras Red is a beautiful color, but it definitely leans toward the red end of the spectrum. My goal is finding something close to this:

[Jeff Johnston]

I never got a descent paint job until I switched to lacquer and clearcoat. I never could get those MM sprays to come out and they never dry. Head to the lacquer isle..

However I have heard that decanting MM enamel and putting 5-10 drops of lacquer thinner is the key to it working. I've never tried it.