rust & weathering beginner kit?

[el Presidente]

Those are the 2 parts of the same "Instant Rust" set I mentioned above; I'm guessing you got them separately, which gives you bigger bottles than the set does.

That's impressive for your first attempt at weathering....my first was long ago, and far from that good.

Sophisticated finishes works great for me, the only problem I have with it is the iron metallic surfacer hardens in the bottle after a few uses. I end up having to throw almost half a bootle away all the time

[59 Impala]

I use Sophisticated finishes also and love it. I rusted a 57 Chevy and a 49 Ford with it. Here are a few pics of them.

There are more pics of both in my photobucket if you would like to see them. Dan

[VW Dave]

Nice work, Dan - especially on the '49.

After reading others' methods of use, I tried the Instant Rust 'baggie' trick for the first time recently, and will never do it again. The result was very shiny and 'crystalized' rust, which didn't look right to me.

[59 Impala]

Dave, that happened on the 49 also. What I did was to spray a lite coat of dullcoat over everything. The only paint on the car is flat black and the coat of dullcoat. The rest is just the plastic showing. Except the hood and the chrome trim that is. I thought the same thing about the shinyness of the rust and the dullcoat took care of that. I hope this will help ya. Thanks for the kind words. Dan

[Foxer]

I'm getting ready to use Sophisticated Finishes to rust out a van I'm working on and, since this thread is pretty much about that, I have a question. The Iron Metallic Surfacer I have seems a bit thick and went on heavy on the test I did. I'd like to know what consistency this is supposed to be. It's almost like a goo even after I added a little water to thin it. And, is water the proper solvent to thin it with? It does say it's a water based product.

At any rate, it was very difficult to get a smooth application of the dark grayish metal look that shows in many of the samples here. The rust chunks are not a problem.

Here's a photo of an headed after 2 applications of the rust solution in a baggie ... I did put some dullcoat on it to tone the shine down.

Edited November 20, 2010 by Foxer

[Dr. Cranky]

This thread really puts a big smile on my face because I see that rust and gunk are making their way into everyones' benches!

I love it.

You know what Cranky says:

LONG LIVE RUST!!!

[Nick Winter]

I did this after watching Cranky build a '55 Chevy truck. I used like VW Dave said a round dremel bit and then a dental pick, I used Testors Rust, then salted it, then sprayed the color, the removed the salt, then dry brushed some finely ground real rust over it.

[Foxer]

That's a nice one, Nick! The dents are really well done ... as is the rust. It's all VERY believable!

[Mr. Show]

Weathering is a lot of fun, but man the temptation to go overboard is strong. I ruined a chassis that I had looking really nice with light rust and black washes, then thought to myself "Hey! What about airbrushing a white gray wash for a dried dirt appearance?" It went from a subtle rust and grease effect to a kaleidoscope. The gray covered pretty much all the detail from previous washes. At least it should be easy to fix, or at least I can't make it look any worse.

Edited November 20, 2010 by Mr. Show

[Nick Winter]

Like James just said Don't go over board, I had a older modeller say to me just in general about model building "If you think you can add one more thing stop, your done"

[vaughn]

So many great ideas and techniques from everyone. Just goes to show that there is no one specific way to do these things. Just be creative and enjoy ! HAPPY THANKS GIVING to all.

[RyanSilva]

The easiest way and cost effective (in my opinion) to start weathering is, pick up a few acrylic craft paints on sale from your local a.c.moore, michaels crafts, joanns etc.

Look for browns and blacks that vary in hues, such as wrought iron, umbers and siennas. A nice round head bristle brush and a cosmetic make up sponge (latex work the best)

Work in layers, building up various colors (which means you will want to go back to previous colors to create dimension) Try it on a chassis.

I like airbrushing my colors and and adding the final crud with a brush also.

[Dr. Cranky]

Cranky's lovin' this thread!

[flappy188]

amazing thread!

[Darren B]

It is i have learned alot from it, any more ideas?????

[Models by Bear]

Here's the second one I did.

[Rockie]

Hi i found this stuff , its from a company in the uk , im gonna get some and try it , what you guys think ?

http://www.alwayshobbies.com/Tools-$4-Materials/Scenery/Deluxe-Materials-Scenic-Rust.ice

it actualy uses iron filings and an accelerator to make the filings rust , cant get much more realistic rust than that can ya lol

DID IT WORK FOR YOU?

[anarximis]

For actual 'rotting' metal in scale, a ball-shaped milling bit in my Dremel is the real workhorse; I thin the body from the inside until it almost bubbles through (just like real NY rust ). I use a small dental-style pick for opening small pinholes up once the material is thin enough.

For paint and surface weathering, I do it 'on the cheap.' My set of chalk pastels was $7 with a 50% off coupon from Michaels, and the makeup brush set came from a local dollar store. My 'Joe Dirt' Charger was done using just Testors DullCote and pastels, no rotting out was in order:

For rust, I always say nothing looks more like rust than the real thing. Sophisticated Finishes' two-part system works very well for me:

i have yet to find Sophisticated Finishes anywhere any one have any idea where i can get it

[om617]

i have yet to find Sophisticated Finishes anywhere any one have any idea where i can get it

After 10 second Google search i found this.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/instant-iron-and-instant-rust/

[anarximis]

ive been looking for some months now and you find it in second nice steve nice