Revell '68 Dodge Charger R/T (UPDATED 8/13/10)

[TurboKitty]

if you use solder just make sure that you are using either rosin core or solid core. do not use the acid core the acid core solder will leach out over time and make a mess of your model.

the Revell Chargers have a pretty nice exhaust system right in the kit, it's just the tips that arent that great. you could make some tips from aluminum tube like you had mentioned earlier and it's easy to make them step up to a bigger size. the difficult part is making the oval shaped end but you may try squeezing it down or crimping it before you cut it to length. doing it that way maintains an even squish if that makes any sense and then you can actually cut two tips from that.

Dave

yeah, I get what you're saying. I will be sure not to get the acid core solder too ; )

[whale392]

Michelle,

The Charger is turning out quite nicely, and your work is appreciated here. I must apologize for the engine designation thing; unfortunately (or fortunately if you look at it from a product knowledge point of view) it is what happens on public forums. Knowledge is shared (sometimes without warrent or need) and others will learn from it.

[TurboKitty]

Michelle,

The Charger is turning out quite nicely, and your work is appreciated here. I must apologize for the engine designation thing; unfortunately (or fortunately if you look at it from a product knowledge point of view) it is what happens on public forums. Knowledge is shared (sometimes without warrent or need) and others will learn from it.

Thank you, there is no need to apologize really. I understand that this sort of thing will happen, but it's all said & done with lol. I look forward to sharing my build progress on the Charger with everyone here, and I definitely look forward to learning new skills, techniques, and tricks, and meeting new people with the same interest

I am currently taking the chassis of the Charger apart because I need to repaint a couple things the correct shade, and I will be duplicating factory markings. I am trying to wait until I have access to a digital camera though so I can share, so it may be a little bit.

[whale392]

No worries; take your time (God knows I do!) and we'll be here when you are ready to show us what you've got going.

[Modlbldr]

Michelle-

I like what you've done with the Charger. The gold is beautiful,as are the steel wheels. I agree with DaveZinn on the MiniLites from Rep & Min. They're top notch. I have a set here that I have had for years for a 70 Boss Mustang Trans Am build someday in the future. As a matter of fact, I need to get a couple more sets.

Keep up the great work and Welcome to the site.

Later-

[Car Crazy 81]

Michelle- Youre Charger is looking awesome keep up the great work i love the Pure Gold paint gotta love those Testors Lacquers. If youre looking to replicate that factory overspray look spray the entire frame in Gray Primer and mist coat the Pure Gold. As for the solder goes you can buy some of that from Lowes or Home Depot. Lowes has their solder cheaper the sizes they sell is .062 inch and .118 inch if you want smaller size solder Radio Shack or Sears has it.

[TurboKitty]

Michelle- Youre Charger is looking awesome keep up the great work i love the Pure Gold paint gotta love those Testors Lacquers. If youre looking to replicate that factory overspray look spray the entire frame in Gray Primer and mist coat the Pure Gold. As for the solder goes you can buy some of that from Lowes or Home Depot. Lowes has their solder cheaper the sizes they sell is .062 inch and .118 inch if you want smaller size solder Radio Shack or Sears has it.

I'm doing that right now actually, lol. Well I need to get some solder still, but I've been detailing the chassis so it is more accurate. I must admit though it is a little bit harder to replicate correctly from a spray can, but I think I found a way to fix that. I've detailed the front suspension with correct finishes, and the lower A-Arms look like they've been dipped in Cosmoline. Definitely going the whole 9 yards lol. I'm anxious to share some more pictures but I need a camera! lol. My cell phone just doesn't cut it I'm afraid

Edited August 1, 2010 by MB_ChargerChick

[Danno]

Michelle,

Great looking Charger! Your Testors Pure Gold finish is dead-on for a '70 Coronet project I have on the bench. What hue of primer did you use? White, light gray, dark gray, something else? Thanks in advance.

Looking forward to seeing this one finished.

[TurboKitty]

Michelle,

Great looking Charger! Your Testors Pure Gold finish is dead-on for a '70 Coronet project I have on the bench. What hue of primer did you use? White, light gray, dark gray, something else? Thanks in advance.

Looking forward to seeing this one finished.

Thanks! I love this shade, so much in fact that I bought another 3 cans of it among others from the same line, lol. There's a nice darker Bronze that I want to try out too (looks sort of like Mopar Tawney Gold, but it needs more green in it). I actually did not use primer for this car, I sanded the body very well with 600 and 800 grit sandpaper, cleaned it thoroughly, and shot it with straight from the can. I didn't use primer because when I checked out the Testors One Coat Lacquer series, that was new at the time, it states in the item description that primer or clear coat isn't needed. So I thought "well, let's see how that turns out" and I sprayed an old kit body that had been broken years earlier. The paint came out very well even with a light sanding to scuff it up a little so the paint could stick. With other paints I still use primer, because a lot of the time I use automotive paints or other Testors paints that call for it. For this particular type of paint, every time I've used it, I spray it the same way I did on the '68 Charger and it comes out very well. I use the "Wet Look Clear" from the same series over the paint to finish it off. I do not know if using primer under it will affect it, but I would say if you're going to use primer, use a Testors Lacquer primer, at least it's the same brand.

[Danno]

Thanks! I love this shade, so much in fact that I bought another 3 cans of it among others from the same line, lol. There's a nice darker Bronze that I want to try out too (looks sort of like Mopar Tawney Gold, but it needs more green in it). I actually did not use primer for this car, I sanded the body very well with 600 and 800 grit sandpaper, cleaned it thoroughly, and shot it with straight from the can. I didn't use primer because when I checked out the Testors One Coat Lacquer series, that was new at the time, it states in the item description that primer or clear coat isn't needed. So I thought "well, let's see how that turns out" and I sprayed an old kit body that had been broken years earlier. The paint came out very well even with a light sanding to scuff it up a little so the paint could stick. With other paints I still use primer, because a lot of the time I use automotive paints or other Testors paints that call for it. For this particular type of paint, every time I've used it, I spray it the same way I did on the '68 Charger and it comes out very well. I use the "Wet Look Clear" from the same series over the paint to finish it off. I do not know if using primer under it will affect it, but I would say if you're going to use primer, use a Testors Lacquer primer, at least it's the same brand.

Thanks, Michelle. I was just looking for the base color beneath the Pure Gold. The final hue can be affected by the base color; darkened by a dark gray, lightened by white, etc. Yours was just the tone I want, so I thought I'd check on your base. My project has considerable bodywork, and is currently in light gray primer, so I'll be re-shooting it with white primer.

The new Testors line does work on well on bare plastic (doesn't it?), contrary to everything we've ever known about traditional lacquers.

Now I'm off to pick up some Pure Gold for my Coronet. Thanks for using your Charger as my color chip! (It's all about ME, you know.) LOL.

[nails3825]

Looking good... glad all the fuss about the engine color has ended Can't wait to see how it turns out, you're doing a great job so far

[TurboKitty]

lol true true ; ) I just got back and can't find solder anywhere, just my luck that Lowes was closed lol. I'll go tomorrow and try to find some if I get the spare time. I really need to get crackin' on my 300ZX project for the JDM community build (that will be painted with the same paint, just a "Graphite Dust" color). Attempted at making little turbos for that, but I think I'll buy some resin ones since they are 100% better lol. I would definitely go with the lightest primer you could find that is still compatible w/ the Testors Lacquer, just in case.

[TurboKitty]

Time for a little update: I tried finding straight rods of solder to make the exhaust out of, and I can only find the kind on the little rolls, which unfortunately had an acid core, so no go with that. I ended up straightening a wire hanger but can't get it to bend right, so who knows. I may just get some copper wire and paint it, but it'll end up looking like the kit exhaust in that case. Anyway, I took apart the chassis to get it ready for the updated Minilite wheels that are now on the 1:1 car, still need have yet to get a complete set of those (I have 3 lol). The rear axle and leaf springs have been completed and detailed to 1968 Correct specs.

The leaf springs were painted to resemble natural steel, with BMF strips covering the clamps. The rear axle assembly was painted gloss black, with white and yellow factory markings replicated, paint runs and all. Lastly, the rear brake line was bent out of parts box wire and applied to the axle. Once I get the new wheels, it will be ready to go back on the chassis after the lines are replicated on that.

As for the body, I have applied a 2nd "coat" of thinned black paint in the recesses, painted the front panel behind the grille black, and made some hood latch hardware to be installed at final assembly. It got a fresh coat of model polish as well, and it is looking pretty good! The rear glass, side vent glass, and front glass has all been installed and I still have work left on the engine. I've made a throttle return spring and oil dipstick so far, which need paint, waiting on a wired distributor, among other things. The grille has been detailed and the "Charger R/T" decal has been applied as well.

Pictures soon, I still need to borrow a camera!

[TurboKitty]

i think the only solder you are going to find in straight lengths is the silver solder used for A/C work. it's massively too stiff for model use like exhaust systems as well. the solder on the rolls can be straightened pretty easily. i usually unroll a length of a foot and a half or so and then pinch it between my first finger and thumb and pull it through my fingers until its straight. i like to cut it with either sprue cutters or photoetch cutters.

Dave

Hmm, well in that case, ok then lol. I will check out Radio Shack and see if they have some that doesn't have the acid core. If it cuts easy with sprue cutters, awesome. Thanks for the tip Dave!

[crazyjim]

Cut a length of the thin (.062) solder from Radio shack and pull it between 2 pairs of pliers. It'll straighten out and then you can bend wherever you need to bend, but at least you'll be able to start with a straight piece.

I did the above procedure on a '36 Ford I'm building and hope to post under glass early next week. I'll be using polished aluminum tubing for the exhaust tips.

Edited August 7, 2010 by crazyjim

[TurboKitty]

Finally I got a digital camera to borrow, so here are some current pictures of the Charger as it is right now. I will add a few more later

Mocked up on some Chrysler 300C wheels w/ Tamiya rubber tires:

Had to use the chassis from my '69 Charger Daytona for a few pics since the '68s chassis is getting some work done

More soon

[Romell R]

Michelle you have some very impressive skills and I love that your build is clean keep up the excellent work. Oh by the way I like the charger with the steelies on it. check out my latest project when you get the chance. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33737

[toplessfury]

i really like it also and i hope you go with the steelies and dog dish caps

[Greg Myers]

Naw, go for some Americans

[Swifster]

I like the steelies with the redlines as well. It't needs a 318 though...

[Tony T]

Good looking Charger! Interesting look with the 300 wheels and wide rubber. The redlines and slotted steelies look good!

[Jon Cole]

Surprising how good looking those 300 wheels look on that! Glad I don't have to choose between those or the steelies!

[charlie8575]

Surprising how good looking those 300 wheels look on that! Glad I don't have to choose between those or the steelies!

I was thinking the same thing. Usually, I think those big wheels look absolutely moronic on most older cars (and most newer ones,) but they look nice on the Charger.

Personally, I like the steelies/redlines and dog dishes, I think it's more in keeping with the character of the car.

Charlie Larkin

[TurboKitty]

I will have the gold steel wheels w/ chrome poverty caps as well as a set of Minilite wheels (as soon as I get them) for the Charger. Remember this car is being built as a 99% correct replica of a real car. The only thing I chose not to do was add a vinyl top to it, lol. I like the picture above of the lighter gold '69 Charger with the American Racing Torque Thrust wheels. I have a set of those, but I'm saving them for another build

The picture where it's sitting on the black steelies & redlines is when I had to use the chassis from my '69 Charger Daytona (which is the black one w/ red interior, red stripe & spoiler). That one is currently apart getting polished and waxed, and I'll have pics of it soon. Here is a pic of it sitting on those Chrysler 300C wheels too, lol. I seem to like the look of it a bit more (yes I know, the hood has yet to be polished in this pic):

Edited August 14, 2010 by MB_ChargerChick

[mrmike]

I have to agree with Charlie on this, too. I don't always use them, but I like them just the same. I'm liking the color of your Charger and I look forward to seeing more.