Clear coating with Urethane

[58 Impala]

I've tried several different types of spray equipment.Some put out too much paint some not enough,some have too wide a pattern some too narrow.Just curious as to what some of you out there use for clearcoating. I'm getting ready to paint an F2003 kit and it has alot of complex angles and shapes. I'm looking for some for some suggestions or advise. Thanks.

[Steve Keck]

The aibrush or gun needs to atomize the urethane just as any other paint so quality is important. Your F1 subject requires more detail than most car models. Morton will jump in here and talk about his automotive touch-up gun that he uses to clear coat models in three passes, left side, right side and top.

I was given a Tamiya pistol grip type airbrush that has a large (maybe one ounce) cup and shoots a moderately wise band of paint. I like it a LOT. It atomizes the paint very well. I can cover the roof of a 1/24th car in three passes. This airbrush is dedicated to clear paints so I won't contaminate the clear coat with colored paint. Now I just need to figure out how to keep dandruff, dog hair and general trash out of my clear coats.

[Karmodeler2]

Now I just need to figure out how to keep dandruff, dog hair and general trash out of my clear coats.

I thought you were going for the "sprayed in bedliner" look, I had no idea that was an accident!!!

Yes, what Steve said, you need to atomize it well. I use a full size automotive gun, not a touch up one, that has about a 8-12 inch fan on it so it can coat models in a few passes, but I think it would be too much for your car. I would suggest, that if you go with urethanes, then reduce them more than what the spec sheet calls for so you can get a good flow in areas that are hard to buff.

You might want to think about Future floor wax too. It goes on super thin and super shiny. You don't have to thin it and you can buff it if you need to. I would test it on spoons by putting down the same primer (if used), and base on many spoons. Then practice shooting it....it does not have to be thinned, it already is thin. Also check as see when you put one of the spoons in ammonia, or hit it with Windex, if the only thing affected is the Future. This will tell you if you can use either one of those to strip just the clear without having to re-do the whole model if you have some problems in the clear.

I use it a lot for making parts shiny, and have used it as a clear coat on a model before with great results, but just be careful, it is thin and runs easily, but I think it will be your best bet....and you can practice with the spoons first.

David

[slapshot]

Steve,Dave or anyone else who has a dedicated airbrush or spray gun for spraying auto clears.Could you please post a picture & some redeeming qualities or suprises that you may have encountered after the purchase.Dave is this the gun that you have?

Edited September 11, 2010 by slapshot

[Karmodeler2]

I do not have a dedicated clear gun or a gun dedicated to pearls/metallics.

What I do have is an over the top cleaning system that I use EVERY time I use my guns. I break them down so far, it looks like the parts schematic from the company that makes the gun. I thoroughly clean them and re-assemble immediately after every use. I know it's over kill, but I do it. I do have a touch up gun, but have not used it yet with models, only the real car stuff, so Steve was partially correct. I bought it off a guy for $10 because he said he used it once and could not get it to work again. I picked it up off his vendor table, asked if he cleaned it, and he said yeah. I then asked if he took it apart, and he said yeah. I then started to dis-assemble it and he looked at me and said ""I didn't know those parts would come off". So it pays to know your equipment and how it breaks down and goes back together. Paasche has wonder tips on their website on how to tighten the fiber washer that is internal, that the needles pass through. I use their tips all the time.

Here are some shots of my guns.

My "Mac Daddy" gun the 670G

My single and double Paasche (I have 2 of each, so 4 total, so I guess I could have dedicated guns, but don't)

And my $10 touch up that works great, so far, on real stuff, but have yet to try it on models....I like a bigger fan, so I use the 670 most of the time.

I don't know of any surprises or redeeming qualities that I have learned. I did purchase 4 additional tips for the 670, and they are expensive ($80 a piece) so the cost is a bit surprising, but I needed them to do the different primers, clears and the like in the 1:1 world. I love the gun and if you have the extra cash floating around, I think it's worth it. But I have a $60 Home Depot gun that I have modified and it's shoots pretty good too. I would say a lot of it is practice with the equipment you have and getting used to it and how it works. That's the key.

Steve? your turn.

David

[Len Woodruff]

Dave's right the gun doen't matter as much as how you use it. I shot my Matrix 3 part urethane with my 12 year old Badger Crescendo and a Medium Tip. Then clean it with lacquer thinner.

Edited September 11, 2010 by Len Woodruff

[Chas SCR]

I agree with Dave and every one its not the gun or brush you use its how and if you know your brush.

I have 3 brushes that I use, Just not because I need 3 air brushes but because I have them setup for the different paint, clear and so on with the tips.

I use a Paashe VL double for my clear with the tip that came with it stock. The reason I have this one for clear coat is because of no external plastic parts or rubber parts inside.

I use another Paashe VL for my primer and sealer coats. Same reason above

For paints I use a Iwata eclips with med tip to shoot the paint. And because I like how it lays it down, I just got it back in March so im still learning it a little and feel this is going to be moved to using clear coats also when I get another one.

[58 Impala]

Thanks for all the input guys. I was looking around on the Bear Air web site, I think I'm going to try the Paasche H single action. They sell one with three different tips,#1 #3 #5. The price is right and will be a bit easier to clean than my touch up gun. I still plan to use my touch up gun on standard car bodies as it does seem to work well if adjusted right and the clear mixed correctly.

[LoneWolf15]

You will fall in love with your H series in a hurry ! Use the # 5 tip and needle assembly . Once you've used it a few times , I think your touch up gun will be gathering dust and cob webs from then on !

Donn Yost

[mikemodeler]

I picked up Donn's how to video and plan to follow his techniques in it. I have tried using my airbrush on and off over the years and after talking with Donn at a show, it dawned on me that rushing through the process is what turned me off to using the airbrush! Like others have said, practice is the difference!

58 Impala- if you are buying a Paasche, see if there is a Hobby Lobby nearby. They have a 40% off coupon this week and the last time I checked, they had them in stock at $89.00, which after the coupon makes it about $53.00 . I might pick up another one just to have for clear coats.

[Lownslow]

i use a cresendo with a medium tip to shoot urethane clear out of it.

i have 6 other airbrushes one for aclad and metalizers one for general use and prime and 2 for detail the rest are on rotation

[slapshot]

Coast Airbrush has a Paasche H set for sale @ $42.00. It contains two heads 3 & 5, 10' hose, two 1 .oz bottles & other goodies. I'm new to model cars (working on # 7) & have used this airbrush on all but the first one & Donn's right it's one heck of a tool for shooting paint or clear. .As always a picture is worth a thousand words & I'm a photo hooker anyway. This 57 Vette was shot with Boyd 's gloss black with no clear coat or polish. It turned out pretty good for a single action airbrush. Of course one learns as one progresses & I have added cutting & buffing to my bag of tricks with alot of help from Dave & Steve.I was planning on buying a spray gun ,but after some thought I think that I will buy another Paasche H for shooting urethane clears.

[Steve Keck]

That is a finish to be proud of, Gary.

And, is that David Morton in the reflection? Sorry, couldn't resist.

[Karmodeler2]

That is a finish to be proud of, Gary.

And, is that David Morton in the reflection? Sorry, couldn't resist.

No,

that's my house!!!

David

[slapshot]

Steve just how hot did it get this summer in Phoenix? My wife & I spent a couple of days at the Pointe @ Squaw Peak in Nov.1987 & the weather was awesome. Went back to Tucson in July 2006 & no offense but I'm never coming back, dry heat my @$$.

Edited September 14, 2010 by slapshot

[Steve Keck]

Steve just how hot did it get this summer in Phoenix? My wife & I spent a couple of days at the Pointe @ Squaw Peak in Nov.1987 & the weather was awesome. Went back to Tucson in July 2006 & no offense but I'm never coming back, dry heat my @$$.

I don't know what the high was this summer. Ignorance is a wonderful tool! I do know the local weatherman said last Friday we did not set any new record high temperatures this year. Our cup is half full(or in this case is it half empty?)

[Karmodeler2]

Our cup is half full(or in this case is it half empty?)

Leave it outside in the heat for just a spell, and it will be empty!!!!

David

[Steve Keck]

Leave it outside in the heat for just a spell, and it will be empty!!!!

David

Outside! Ah, yes! Our life size dehydrator!

[58 Impala]

Mikemodeler, thanks for the tip. I went to our new Hobby Lobby with the 40% coupon in hand and bought the Paasche H set cheaper than I could find online ($57 w/tax). Donn, I'm looking foward to trying it out. I'll try your advice about using the #5 tip.

[slapshot]

Back to urethane clear,can urethane clear be shot over Tamiya Acrylic XF-6 Copper ?

[Karmodeler2]

Back to urethane clear,can urethane clear be shot over Tamiya Acrylic XF-6 Copper ?

put some on a spoon and give it a whirl. What do you have to lose?

[slapshot]

There not much to lose but the nearest hobby shop is 100 miles away & then some & they do not sale Tamiya pants. Just looking for the easy way out I guess. I know that mail order is the only option & will go that route one way or another. I would like to buy with confidence knowing the end results versus buying a sample amount then turning around & paying shipping twice if the test results are positive.Thanks in advance Gary

[Ddms]

Buying the Paasche Series H was a good idea. I love mine.

I've sprayed 2K urethane clear over Tamiya TS series paints with no problem. The urethane needs to be thinned with medium temp reducer. Regular lacquer thinner can cause curdling.

[slapshot]

Thanks Tom for the response I will now order four bottles from Tower.

[Steve Keck]

I haven't tried it.

I suggest you try it. I use plastic spoons and record the paint sequence (includung primer)on the reverse for later reference.