Krylon question

[chevypickup]

Hi guys.

Wich Krylon paints can I use directly on plastic?

Which serie of krylon paints is better to paint plastic models, which produce a hight gloss finish?

Thank!!!

[ChrisPflug]

I've used the Fusion paints over automotive primer- doesn't usually dry glossy but is tough enough to polish to a high shine, almost like lacquer

Don't understand the advantage of not priming

Edited October 14, 2010 by ChrisPflug

[mikeD1]

dont use the stuff made for plastic !!!!

it melted my kit before!!!

thanks

mike

any other krylon works great!!!! i dont use primer!!!! lol

[Jordan White]

I've lately started using the Krylon Fusion made for plastic, and it hasn't messed up my kits at all.

Edited October 14, 2010 by YJIslander

[Mr. Show]

I did some testing with the gloss black Krylon. It sprayed on as a mirror finish, then after 10 seconds it started wrinkling and turned matte with some orange peel. It did this both with and without primer.

Also, not to derail, but how is Plastikote? I read the name around here but can't recall in what context. I saw some today in an old auto parts store but wasn't sure if I should grab some.

Edited October 21, 2010 by Mr. Show

[GrandpaMcGurk]

I've lately started using the Krylon Fusion made for plastic, and it hasn't messed up my kits at all.

I work with large scale models and those little overpriced hobby shop rattle cans just don't cut it. I use Krylon for most everything including the "for plastic" stuff. Never had a problem with or without primer. However, I always use a good primer with automotive "hot" paints to prevent plastic melt down.

[davyou5]

The only Krylon paints I have any experience with in modeling are the Crystal Clear acrylic clear found at Hobby Lobby, Michaels & other art supply stores & the Krylon Short Cuts line of hobby/craft paints found at some craft store & a few hardware stores. Both are safe for plastic.

If you get the Crystal Clear, be sure to get the kind mentioned sold at the places above. There's another Krylon Crystal Clear sold at hardware stores, (& in the hardware departments of Wal Mart, Kmart & the like), that is a different & hotter formula, & carries a different SKU number. It can attack plastic.

The Krylon Fusion paint line formulated for plastics might be ok on models as well, but having no experience with it I don't know.

Of course, using Pledge With Future Shine as a barrier coat & then using Duplicolor automotive primer, (or any other similar lacquer primer), will ensure that you can use any paint.

Well I am heading out to the Hobby Lobby tommorow as I need to get some more clear anyway, I think I would like to try the Crystal Clear on my current model.

[my66s55]

I just used Krylon Fusion on bare plastic on a Monogram model. There were no problems.

[Aaronw]

I use Krylon, Plasticote, Duplicolor and Rustolium quite often and have never had an issue. I don't spray paint plastic without primer as I've run into issues of the plastic "grain" showing through the paint on occasion (particularly with the Krylon Fusion). That never happens if I prime first, besides a nice primer coat sanded smooth leads to a better color coat. Krylon apparently is an odd formula (sort of a laquer but not exactly from what Ive heard) which dries much faster than the other brands.

I generally use Krylon red/brown, grey or white primer depending on the color going over the primer (it does make a difference). Strangely I've found white seems to go over grey primer better than white, but the white is good to put under bright colors. I have not had any problems putting the other brands of paint over the Krylon primer.

I use Future floor wax for a gloss coat and it can make flat black gloss, so I don't worry too much about whether a paint is satin or gloss, it will be gloss when I'm done with it. I do try not to use flat unless I want it flat though, as I find the flat paints go down a little rougher so take more work at the polishing stage.

Edited October 24, 2010 by Aaronw

[Aaronw]

I did some testing with the gloss black Krylon. It sprayed on as a mirror finish, then after 10 seconds it started wrinkling and turned matte with some orange peel. It did this both with and without primer.

Also, not to derail, but how is Plastikote? I read the name around here but can't recall in what context. I saw some today in an old auto parts store but wasn't sure if I should grab some.

You might be putting it on too thick. I have rarely had that happen but when it has I usually have been rushing and decided that was the reason. Ideally I will put down a half dozen mist coats over 30-40 minutes (a new coat every 5-10 minutes). These are very light coats, the first coat or two won't even fully cover the primer.

[Jordan White]

I use Future floor wax for a gloss coat and it can make flat black gloss, so I don't worry too much about whether a paint is satin or gloss, it will be gloss when I'm done with it. I do try not to use flat unless I want it flat though, as I find the flat paints go down a little rougher so take more work at the polishing stage.

How do you end up putting on the Future?

[Chuck Most]

Don't understand the advantage of not priming

My guess is it's designed to save the time and effort you'd normally use priming- this line is intended more for the lazy or inexperienced homeowner who's just freshening up some plastic items than pros or hobbyists. For somebody not as well versed in painting as we are, it's a pretty good selling point.

[my66s55]

I apply Future with either an airbrush, paint brush or foam brush. The brush can be any size needed. I use a 1" foam brush for bodies.

[Jordan White]

Thanks, I'll have to try that out!

[Mr. Show]

I apply Future with either an airbrush, paint brush or foam brush. The brush can be any size needed. I use a 1" foam brush for bodies.

I never thought to use an airbrush. I gave up after my attempts at brushing it on left visible brush strokes (even though it's supposed to be self leveling) and bubbles formed after it had already been applied. What do you use to clean your airbrush afterward? Will any thinner work?

[wisdonm]

Use something with ammonia in it to remove Future, like a good window cleaner. The bottle says 1/2 cup ammonia to 1/2 gallon of water.

[Aaronw]

How do you end up putting on the Future?

I usually use a brush, I rarely have brush stroke problems but I have used an airbrush when I really wanted a smooth finish.

I haven't tried it but supposedly adding a little simple green to the Future will give you a very glossy finish, but it also becomes a dust magnet until dry.

This is the best article I've found for using Future.

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

[Jamez]

it has to be concentrated simple green apparently, I tried it with some of the spray stuff frmo Crappy Tire and it actually dulled it way down, definitely was a dust magnet however.

[ninjasword71]

Not all Krylon is the same. I tried the Krylon Short Cuts Hobby Craft Enamel on a Tamiya kit and turned out way better than expected unprimed. However, I spayed the Krylon Indoor/Outdoor on a masked windshield and it at right through the masking and screwed the window. I picked up the Short Cuts at Micheal's. I would not try the Indoor/Outdoor stuff on a body. It seems that Short Cuts was meant for plastic models because it has hobby craft on it. I must agree that the other type is too hot. Hope that clears things up.

[old gearhead]

Not all Krylon is the same. I tried the Krylon Short Cuts Hobby Craft Enamel on a Tamiya kit and turned out way better than expected unprimed. However, I spayed the Krylon Indoor/Outdoor on a masked windshield and it at right through the masking and screwed the window. I picked up the Short Cuts at Micheal's. I would not try the Indoor/Outdoor stuff on a body. It seems that Short Cuts was meant for plastic models because it has hobby craft on it. I must agree that the other type is too hot. Hope that clears things up.

Funny thing about clear plastic. I often use Duplicolor Universal Primer and have never had a problem with that until I applied it to a clear plastic top on an AMT C5 Corvette Coupe (the top and windshield are one piece). It didn't attack the masking, but it did shrivel up the unmasked plastic and slightly fogged the windshield underneath the masking. I went ahead with the color coat to see if I could polish it smooth. No dice, it burned through to the high spots the primer created but I was able to sand it just smooth enough and color coat it again without any problems; there was still enough paint on there to protect the plastic. The windshield polished right out with Novus.

[old gearhead]

The only Krylon paints I have any experience with in modeling are the Crystal Clear acrylic clear found at Hobby Lobby, Michaels & other art supply stores & the Krylon Short Cuts line of hobby/craft paints found at some craft store & a few hardware stores. Both are safe for plastic.

If you get the Crystal Clear, be sure to get the kind mentioned sold at the places above. There's another Krylon Crystal Clear sold at hardware stores, (& in the hardware departments of Wal Mart, Kmart & the like), that is a different & hotter formula, & carries a different SKU number. It can attack plastic.

The Krylon Fusion paint line formulated for plastics might be ok on models as well, but having no experience with it I don't know.

Of course, using Pledge With Future Shine as a barrier coat & then using Duplicolor automotive primer, (or any other similar lacquer primer), will ensure that you can use any paint.

Who's Mark Moore?

[wreckless666]

to be honest with you guys when i use spray paints i usually buy the cheap paint in blue cans for under a buck at walmart. other than not having too many colors to pick from its not bad stuff. the only paint i really use though is the primer flat black and red. but ive never had a problem with it. the color turns out fine and can be polished

[RickRollerLT1]

From my experirnce I allways use a primer (mainly sears "quick 'n easy" gray primer (I don't sand because the primer is so smooth and easy to work with) beacuse the Krylon WILL craze or sometimes, melt the plastic. I find using the sears primer, then the wal-mart paint, then the krylon works the best(it sticks better and is smother by doing this).

One more thing... DO NOT use any form of Krylon clear (standard of crystal clear), because I tried it once and it went through the paint on a spare kit body, and it crazed the whole thing!! (waited almost a week and the paint was super dry)

I highly reccomend useing future as a clear coat because you can apply it any way and if you get runs, the more coats you apply may hide it.

However, if you apply it too early (depending on the paint and how long it takes to dry) it will form "Spider cracks"... I reccomend waiting about 3 days to 2 weeks (again depending on the paint and it's drying times).

Edited January 28, 2011 by V-spec

[Erik Smith]

I have been experimenting with some different paints, including Krylon. It is definitely a bargain compared to hobby shop paints as I can get the large 12oz can for $4. Hobby paints are $4 to $6 and only have about 3oz. So...

I purchased some Krylon Crytal Clear (from the hardware section), Krylon Fusion flat black, Krylon indoor/outdoor semi flat black and ivy leaf, and DupliColor Light Champagne Metallic. The Duplicolor is a Acrylic Laqcuer, the Crystal Clear says "Acrylic" on the can, and the rest I don't know.

Here are the paints:

Edited February 8, 2011 by Coyotehybrids

[Erik Smith]

...and the result:

None of the paints harmed the plastic. I primed half with PlastiKote and left half bare plastic. No adverse reaction to any of the above paints. But...

I tried the Crystal Clear and...

it did this to the Ivy Leaf Krylon Paint. It was odd and sporadic, though, as not all the paint wrinkled:

Crystal Clear worked great on the Duplicolor:

I will keep trying out different combos.

As a note, I also applied some Crystal Clear over some airbrushed Tamiya Acrylic and it worked really great. I sprayed it over a flat paint and was able (after a week of drying) to sand and polish it (aggressively, too) to a very fine shine. It was actually to tough for the project (old Ford) as I was trying to sand back down through the paint layers and I had to really put it to the clear to sand through.

Hope this info helps!