MILD Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 Gentlemen- after a handful of problems getting my hands on some real BMF I thought it was worth tracking some down whilst interstate. In the whole town, only one hobby shop had it in stock and they were asking a lot for it. Instead I held out and it was by pure chance while in an electronics store I can across some aluminium foil tape. The roll is 50mm wide and a whopping 50metres long- at $17AUD that's a whole lot cheaper than BMF. It is listed as 40microns however when we measured it it did come in ever so slightly thicker. I used it to foil a logo on the top of a jar lid and it seems to be more than appropriate for modelling. Has anyone used it before and with any kind of success? The particular brand I got was Duratech although I did find this link - http://www.electrotape.com/aluminum-foil-tape/aluminum-foil-tape-500.html For those on a budget or unable to get their hands on the real mccoy this might be an option. For the Australian readers the tape is readily available at Jaycar. Thanks.
Mr. Show Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 (edited) I have a roll that I've been hesitant to use. The adhesive - on the one I have anyway - is super strong and will pull off paint so it's a one shot thing. Post some pictures if you use it on a model. Edited November 2, 2010 by Mr. Show
Longbox55 Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 I would be hesitant to use it on a model, as the adheasive is very strong. Basically, it's duct tape, only it's REAL duct tape, rather than the stuff you see at the hardware stores called "duct tape". It's an industrial product, meant for sealing metal ductwork. My Dad is a retired sheetmetal worker, and used plenty of it over the years. I've also used it myself, as it is great for sealing down the foil backed insulation used in car interiors. Once stuck, it does NOT come off!
Chillyb1 Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 Here's what it looks like on a model: Its uses for modeling purposes are limited. It is much thicker than BMF (or its homemade equivalents) and that thickness is visible. It is very difficult to cut, so many very sharp blades, and a surgeon's steady hands, are necessary. I don't think it is as aggressive adhesive-wise as the other posters have claimed. When I was experimenting with it a couple of years ago, I never had a problem with it lifting any paint (I was using enamels and lacquers, so I can't say what it might do to acrylics). And when you remove failed attempts or excess tape, the adhesive lifts with the tape and does not leave any mark or residue on the paint. There are types of automotive brightwork that are notably, visibly thicker than scripts and other trim bits. This aluminum tape is, I think, best suited to windshield and rear window surrounds and some rocker panels. I don't really us it very much, but because I have several hundred yards of the stuff I still look for the occasional suitable application of it. It may not be very easy to see in this photo, but the bumpers and the side/rocker trim on this Porsche are aluminum tape: The trim on these VW running boards are also done in aluminum tape: And, just for kicks, I used the stuff on the underside of this Ferrari F40:
Scott Colmer Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 (edited) The aluminum tape is a calssic 1000 and 1 uses materials. It takes surfacing. It can be punched out to create rivets. Below is an engine-turned dash with rivets. Rivets can be made by simply twirling beveled brass tube on the tape and then pushing out the rivit with a dowel for a flat head rivet or a pin for a blind rivet. If you go too small (1/32") the gum adhesive works agianst you. You are better of using thick aluminum foil and clear acrylic to stick it on. The engine turning can be done with a homemade device detailed in a Model Cars article. Also think of making some special scuffing pattrerns to look like flames. You can also create an anodize look with Sharpies. That would make a great inset for a 57 Chevy tail fin. Score straight line on the backside and you have a bead rolled panel or wheel tub. And so on and so on. Scott Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Edited November 2, 2010 by Scott Colmer
Poncho-Power Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 Being that I am in the Heating and Cooling trade, I have tons and tons of this stuff, and i have thought about using it on several builds but never have, I have a 68 mustang that i may use it on cause i am not really a fan of mustangs so this might be a good time to use it. and see what it can do for me.
EH225M Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 Mick, BMF has been hard to obtain in Australia for a while now. I dont know why, but it just is. I've never used the foil tape, so I can't add any comment about it, But there is another alternative... using Cadbury chocolate foil.use laquer thinners to remove the logo from the foil then cut it into strips and mist on a coat of aerosol adhesive. Burnish it into place and trim away the excess. Polish away the residue that's left behind. The good thing is that the foil wont dull over time!
Adam144 Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 (edited) I used foil "duct" tape to do the firewall on my Ferrari Enzo Revell 1:24 kit. (I know it's not near the caliber that most of you build at but it was my first model in about 16 years). It is actually the first model i've painted or done any sort of detail work on, because as a kid I used to just glue whatever was in the box together as per the instructions and toss on the decals with my dad. I started the build last winter, it's further along than these pics but I still have to finish it. And the real deal: Edited November 2, 2010 by Adam144
Jordan White Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 Not sure if I used the same sort of tape as you (mine had backing that you had to peel off before you could stick it), but I used some as well. It went on good and was easy to flatten down using a Q-tip.
Kaleb Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 If you can get a'hold of some the Nashua 322 or the Nashua "Extreme Weather" is usually thin enough. Some of the Shuretape is also thin in most cases.
GeeBee Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 I ran out of BMF while I was building this, and no one had it in stock this side of the pond, managed to come across a roll of this aluminium tape, and it worked a treat
seeker589 Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 What are the retail outlets that sell the aluminum duct tape? I'm assuming the large retail lumber/hardware outlets are a source?
Jordan White Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 What are the retail outlets that sell the aluminum duct tape? I'm assuming the large retail lumber/hardware outlets are a source? Yeah...Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, what have you.
Terror Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 It has the same shininess as kit chrome.I think.A little thick but works in some situations.When you remove excess peel it slow and back on itself and the residue will come with the cut.It's a nice affordable thing to use.1 roll should last a lifetime.
robertw Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 Here in western Canada the true bmf can also be hard to find and its hard to determine how long its been sitting on the shelf. A fellow modeller about a year back introduced me to a duct tape that he'd found at Princess Auto (an auto supply / hardware chain). It's a brand, made in China so he felt the quality wouldn't be as good. He was right. It's a bit thicker then bmf but not to the point that it can't be used on curves. It's a lot more sticky then bmf but I've lifted in and laid it back down with no damage to the paint underneath. My only problem is that being a little thicker it is more susceptable to pressure marks and a little harder on ex-acto blades but he even turned me on to using circular cutters that can be found in many craft and even dollar style stores. A rolling round blade seems to cut easier then dragging the straight blade. robw
sjordan2 Posted November 4, 2010 Posted November 4, 2010 Looking at the Ferrari firewall, it seems to me that it would be a good candidate for using the textured-pattern foil from the inside of a cigarette pack (such as Marlboro).
Adam144 Posted November 4, 2010 Posted November 4, 2010 Looking at the Ferrari firewall, it seems to me that it would be a good candidate for using the textured-pattern foil from the inside of a cigarette pack (such as Marlboro). Funny you should mention that, hindsight is 20/20. I was at a friend's house shortly after having passed that portion of hte Ferrari build and one of the guys there smokes. I was looking at his cigarette pack and thought "oh, I should've used that instead!". Funny how everyday things relate in your mind to modelling at the time. But regardless, thank you for the idea. It's a little too late for that build but I will keep it in mind for future works.
sjordan2 Posted November 4, 2010 Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) Funny you should mention that, hindsight is 20/20. I was at a friend's house shortly after having passed that portion of hte Ferrari build and one of the guys there smokes. I was looking at his cigarette pack and thought "oh, I should've used that instead!". Funny how everyday things relate in your mind to modelling at the time. But regardless, thank you for the idea. It's a little too late for that build but I will keep it in mind for future works. I have some of that foil set aside for appropriate use on dashboards (for example, a Mercedes Gullwing switch panel) and where necessary on body trim, bumpers, etc. Another technique would be to use fine mesh as a template and spray over it with Alclad or similar. At small scales, a faux finish is probably just as good as something with real texture. Edited November 4, 2010 by sjordan2
Kaleb Posted November 4, 2010 Posted November 4, 2010 Correction on the Nashua 322 its thicker than I thought. As far as buying foil tape I would check out HVAC suppliers, because Home Depot, lowes etc can be higher and most of the time they are. If you dont want the 3 inch they have a 2 inch
MILD Posted November 5, 2010 Author Posted November 5, 2010 I would be hesitant to use it on a model, as the adheasive is very strong. Basically, it's duct tape, only it's REAL duct tape, rather than the stuff you see at the hardware stores called "duct tape". It's an industrial product, meant for sealing metal ductwork. My Dad is a retired sheetmetal worker, and used plenty of it over the years. I've also used it myself, as it is great for sealing down the foil backed insulation used in car interiors. Once stuck, it does NOT come off! Sorry Bill but I think we are talking about different tapes in this instance. The foil tape I have is in no way a duct tape and is used more for when working with electronics- the particular item I bought came from an electronics chain we have here and I daresay you would get a similar product from a similar store in the USA. This tape does have a backing on it that must be peeled off to expose the adhesive but is in no way as agressive as suggested. Yes it will stick, but it can still be lifted with a little effort and no damage done. I may- if I get a chance- post up a picture of the exact tape I have at home. Perhaps my link is causing some confusion.
Aaronw Posted November 5, 2010 Posted November 5, 2010 Cheap aluminium foil and gold leaf adhesive also works well and is probably much thinner than the tape. You want to buy the cheap foil as a BMF alternative because it is thinner, but some of the good heavy duty oven foil would probably be better for picking up and holding textures.
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