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Posted

i just want to put a few plastic cars together with the grandkids, so , the age old question. lacquer or enamel?

there seems to be about 2000 different kinds of paint at the hobby lobby. how about these 2 stage lacquers by modelmaster?

Posted

I prefer lacquer, dries faster than enamel. You can't go wrong with Tamiya sprays, they are really easy to work with. Don't get me wrong, I've had great results with the Testors 2 stage, but the price is a consideration as you need 2 cans (colour & clear) to do the job.

Posted

Roger, you are incorrect about enamels being tougher than laquers, it is the other way around.

Posted

Rob,

If you are just going to build a few models and not a bunch, consider the Testors One Coat line at Hobby Lobby. They are mostly metallics and bright colors, which may appeal to the kids.These dry quickly and look pretty decent when done. They are truly a one coat paint.

Something to consider when clearcoating a paint job is using Future floor wax. I recently tried it and was pleasantly surprised at the results. It is easy to use, I brushed it on, and it cleans up easily. If the Future has dirt or runs, it can be removed with Windex. It is a new way of clearcoating paint jobs without the toxicity of some of the other options out there.

Guest Markus355
Posted

LAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaacccccccccccccccccccccccqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqquuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuueeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!

Testors one coat is awesome! This nomad was painted with Testors one coat Firey orange, and testors 1 coat wet look clear.

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Guest Markus355
Posted

it says you dont need to, but i find they cover better when you do

Posted

it says you dont need to, but i find they cover better when you do

I find the same. On some plastics, there's also an issue of the draft lines from the casting process showing up in the finish if it's sprayed on directly. Priming will prevent that.

Posted

Always prime efore painting any type of paint. It gives the color coats something to grip onto, plus will fill minor scratches, and cover sanded putty, or parts that may be diffrent color plastic.

Posted

What I meant is that Laquer chips easier than enamel. Laquer is harder, but chips easily. Enamel is softer,but isn't prone to chipping like laquer. In that respect,enamel is tougher than laquer.

This is correct. A completey cured enamel paint is much "Tougher" than any lacquer. The catchwords here are "completely cured". Lacquers are more prone to chipping where enamels dry to a hard shell. The catch is...enamels are tougher to lay down than lacquers so in this instance I would go with the lacquers as being the best choice for the OP's question.

Posted (edited)

For spraying the car body and most interior and chassis parts: Tamiya TS series spray-can synthetic lacquer. Tamiya TS, compared to spray-can enamel, dries faster (minutes vs. days), covers better, goes on thinner, and is less likely to have severe orange peel. It looks great, even without clear-coating or sanding and compounding.

For touch-up, repairs, and small parts that you want to brush paint: Testors enamel.

Definitely prime the body. Primer is easy to sand and it will reveal any mold lines or other "issues" that need to be handled before applying the color coat.

Edited by Ddms
Posted (edited)

i just want to put a few plastic cars together with the grandkids, so , the age old question. lacquer or enamel?

there seems to be about 2000 different kinds of paint at the hobby lobby. how about these 2 stage lacquers by modelmaster?

I just spayed my "T" model chopped coupe Amt's 3 in one, (Rat Rod?) with Testors one coat Lacquer-1831M-Fiery Orange'the other day.

it looks ok but i think it needs a clear coat.

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but to show kids how to paint with cans it's fast drying just the trick i would think.and not as stinky as enamel.

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cut up some card stock tape it up in to a model car body size/shape box use it to test and practice on.

Edited by spad007

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