Lacquer over Enamel

[Iron Fist]

I am both a lazy and persistent modeler. I like using Testors enamels because they are cheap and I have learned to work with them through my airbrush, also I dont like change. My favorite clear coat is Testors Wet Look Clear Lacquer (1834MCA).

Well as you probably already know they are not compatible as the clear lacquer will craze and wrinkle the enamel.

To solve this problem I used Future as a barrier coat between the enamel and lacquer.

I simply brushed on a thin coat of Future over the dry enamel base coat and then sprayed on the clear lacquer once the Future was dry.

Here's the results

(Edit) Forgot to mention that this is without any wet sanding, polishing or waxing.

Thanks for looking.

Edited May 12, 2011 by Iron Fist

[Erik Smith]

Can't argue with the results. Looks beautiful.

[vaughn]

Just goes to show that there is more ways than one to skin a cat ! Really looks good !! Will have to try .

[High octane]

Awesome results.

[jbwelda]

ummm while i think the future thing is worthwhile i have never had an issue spraying testors lacquer clear over testors enamel color. i know its not supposed to work but again, never a problem. i do try to lay a couple of mist coats down before a flow coat so maybe thats the secret. ive also not had a problem spraying testors clear lacquer over tamiya which arent supposed to be compatible either (but maybe its tamiya and testors enamel that arent supposed to be compatible).

[TurboKitty]

WOW that paint looks a mile deep! So what does Future do exactly? Is it like a sealer that won't wash off? This is the same stuff used for floors, correct? I would love to try this stuff out!

[MikeMc]

WOW that paint looks a mile deep! So what does Future do exactly? Is it like a sealer that won't wash off? This is the same stuff used for floors, correct? I would love to try this stuff out!

Michelle, Future is a liquid acrylic floor sealer. Once its dry it can be used as a barrier coat. Bill Geary (Mr O ) uses it as a barrier coat to prevent ghosting when using lacquer paints.

I must agree with Bill..I too have shot hobby lacquers over enamels but I dehydrated the enamel first, then misted TS13 on without any wrinkles

Edited May 12, 2011 by Stasch

[TurboKitty]

thanks, I see it's been covered a few times on here too. Sounds like a great idea for dipping clear parts & sealing paint, gonna get myself a bottle today!

[Skydime]

ummm while i think the future thing is worthwhile i have never had an issue spraying testors lacquer clear over testors enamel color. i know its not supposed to work but again, never a problem. i do try to lay a couple of mist coats down before a flow coat so maybe thats the secret. ive also not had a problem spraying testors clear lacquer over tamiya which arent supposed to be compatible either (but maybe its tamiya and testors enamel that arent supposed to be compatible).

That's exactly what I do. I spray silver enamel under most colors of Testors One Coat and let it dry for a few hours. Then I spray mist coats until a majority of the silver is gone and then a couple wet coats. But patience is a virtue when doing it like this because it will wrinkle if you don't go slow.

However, Justin, great job on experimenting with the Future and finding an excellent technique. I don't even like Mustangs and I think this one looks magnificent.

Edited May 12, 2011 by Skydime

[spkgibson]

Great Tip, Future seems to be the way to go now. I wouldn't suggest spraying hot Automotive Lacquers over enamel paints though ,Unless the Future completely seals it, I have yet to try this method myself . That paint job looks great, Black is a very hard color to get right, You nailed it.

[sjordan2]

Just a question for Future users. Apparently, when used as a clear topcoat, it's easily removed with ammonia-based products such as Windex. Has anyone had long-term issues using it as an intermediate barrier coat between paints? I've heard it's also good as a barrier coat to prevent bodies molded in red from bleeding into paint.

[Zoom Zoom]

Just a question for Future users. Apparently, when used as a clear topcoat, it's easily removed with ammonia-based products such as Windex. Has anyone had long-term issues using it as an intermediate barrier coat between paints? I've heard it's also good as a barrier coat to prevent bodies molded in red from bleeding into paint.

I think it's better at being a barrier than a top coat.

I had a difficult painjob that I was running into unexpected etching of my color over a base color, thankfully I was shooting light coats at the time through the airbrush. I ended up shooting Future as a midcoat barrier, and it did the trick.

I just don't like how Future flows; to me it seems too thin, it will run very easily, and I don't like how it polishes out...can't use water. "Real" clear paint is much superior, IMHO, for external use.

[jbwelda]

>painjob

very appropriate typo there bob, describes about 60% of my attempts perfectly.

my friend who is a 1:1 painter has a sign over the door to his paint booth: "More On?". thats appropriate too as thats how i ruin most of my bad jobs: think just one more coat will do it.

and bob yeah you can use water on future, it has no effect, at least as far as i know, its not water soluble. ammonia and products that use ammonia will remove it clean but not water, at least not after its dry. and its pretty amazing for a top coat but its hard to believe until you actually see it work, even applied by brush.

[Zoom Zoom]

>painjob

very appropriate typo there bob, describes about 60% of my attempts perfectly.

my friend who is a 1:1 painter has a sign over the door to his paint booth: "More On?". thats appropriate too as thats how i ruin most of my bad jobs: think just one more coat will do it.

and bob yeah you can use water on future, it has no effect, at least as far as i know, its not water soluble. ammonia and products that use ammonia will remove it clean but not water, at least not after its dry. and its pretty amazing for a top coat but its hard to believe until you actually see it work, even applied by brush.

I've brushed it on, I've sprayed it on, I have used it a couple times as a topcoat.

It did not like being wetsanded at all (used Micromesh just like I do on regular clear). It had cured in the dehydrator. It feels durable, almost like Teflon, up until it was cut. Dry sanding was another story, it remained stable.

It is in no way, shape, or form as durable a topcoat as any real clearcoat. I painted several IROC Porsche models a few years back w/craft store colors and needed to use Future as a clear for some reason. I far prefer using Gunze Mr. Topcote as a safe clear over decals vs. Future. If others get good results and like using it, that's fine w/me. I'll stick with the clears I use regularly.

[george 53]

Ok so HOW do you use it? Do you spray it on? Brush it on? or just dip it in the Future? I've never used it, except on our kitchen floor, and it does seem rather runny. Can someone let me know just HOW you guys apply it?

[MikeMc]

I have had the same story as Bob has....I never feel good when using it in the airbrush,,I do dip windshields and other small parts, wicking away the excess. You cannot wetsand future..its a mess, you can dry sand it....its more work than I will ever spend on TS 13.

It is a great barrier coat, easier to apply than Bin

[Iron Fist]

Ok so HOW do you use it? Do you spray it on? Brush it on? or just dip it in the Future? I've never used it, except on our kitchen floor, and it does seem rather runny. Can someone let me know just HOW you guys apply it?

I use a small paint brush to apply the Future coat as a little bit goes a long way and having a small amount on your brush ensures that you wont get any pooling. I would also suggest you apply the Future in stages for example on the Mustang I did the roof, hood and trunk and let the Future self level and dry, then I turned the car on its side so it was parallel with the table and did the same procedure.

Pratice on plastic spoons until you are comfortable.

I have also tried to run Future through my airbrush and had terrible results, I found the best way is applying it with a brush.

I also agree that Future is a lousy top coat compared to lacquer.

Edited May 13, 2011 by Iron Fist

[Skydime]

Just a question for Future users. Apparently, when used as a clear topcoat, it's easily removed with ammonia-based products such as Windex. Has anyone had long-term issues using it as an intermediate barrier coat between paints? I've heard it's also good as a barrier coat to prevent bodies molded in red from bleeding into paint.

I hate Windex for anything but, striping chrome. If you clean with something like that, use Clearview or one of the other window cleaners that is safe for window tint.

Edited May 14, 2011 by Skydime

[Harry P.]

This model has 3-4 airbrushed coats of Future sprayed straight from the bottle over Duplicolor paints. No wetsanding or polishing of any kind.

[jbwelda]

i was thinking i had wetsanded some but i guess not or i would have remembered the experience!

truth is i mostly use it on bodies just to cover decals if i havent used clear or if i applied them over the clear.

[Iron Fist]

This model has 3-4 airbrushed coats of Future sprayed straight from the bottle over Duplicolor paints. No wetsanding or polishing of any kind.

The shine on that car car looks right for that era (beautiful model), but Future doesn't come close to lacquer for depth of shine.

[charlie8575]

A lot of people seem to like dipping parts, and the Future, being self-leveling, doesn't leave drips, etc., while totally sealing the body.

Interesting concept, should occasion require, I may give it a shot.

Harry- what kind of car is that? It looks great.

Charlie Larkin

[Joe Handley]

Quick question for you Harry, What kind of airbrush and thinner did you use to shoot the Future?

[ewaskew]

That looks very nice

[CEKPETHO BCE]

Does future require thinner?