Build your own display cases - part 1

[crazyjim]

I promised to post a tutorial on the process I use to make display cases. So here it is. These are the materials I purchased at Lowe's for $35.00. Not shown is the 1" x 6" x 8' clear pine board.

Make sure you use clear silicone.

The board has been cut and an edge routed.

Measure twice, cut once. I clamp a straight edge to a table to get nice straight cuts of 3 1/2" for the sides.

I then use a square to cut the length.

Tape the plastic together on the base and caulk the corners. Let set up for at least an hour.

[Dr. Cranky]

I love this tip, and you can build whatever size you want. Excellent, Jim. Thank you.

[Mike Kucaba]

I really liked this tutorial. There were no fancy electric tools involved and no unobtanium supplies. I was especially thrilled that you used a 3M product as I am a former employee,now retired!

[crazyjim]

I used a router for the edge of the board and an electric saw to cut the board. That's it for power tools. Yes Dr. Cranky, almost any size. Lowe's carries the plexiglas up to 24" x 48". Maybe they could order larger sizes. I never checked.

[The Creative Explorer]

Jim; for 35 USD, how many cases for a 1/24 car can be build?

[crazyjim]

Should be able to do 10 easily.

[The Creative Explorer]

Ok thanks, it puts it a bit more in perspective. I assume the materials will cost more over here (in Europe) but it is still interesting. I am eagerly waiting for part 2.

Thanks Jim.

[crazyjim]

Part 2 was posted just a couple of minutes after Part 1. I had to break into parts because of the 5 pic limit here. I've been been to Europe and don't really know any pricing structure there or even if you have home improvemnet stores. Naturally, the more materials you buy, the cheaper each unit will be.

[Aaronw]

Great idea, nicer and cheaper than most of the readily available commercial cases.

Just for future use, one thing you can do to work around the 5 pic per post thing is to make several posts in a row.

Quickly (before others comment) reply to your first post. The software wont let you leave a blank post, but you can leave some basic place holder text (reserved, saved, even just a letter) then the forum software will allow you to make the post. You can do this as many times as you think you will need. This gives you one or more consecutive posts you can go back and edit when you are ready to make a full post.

If you are in a smart alecky mood you can do a burma shave kind of thing with the posts until you finish your tutorial.

Edited November 10, 2011 by Aaronw

[donkeypuncher76]

sorry felas i don't have the pics anymore,(exwife) i used to be an auto glass/ glazier man, i would cut mirror at size 12x 6 or in my case 18 by 32, but cut ur base, measure back,sides and top to fit leaving an angled front, if u can picture it, after u have the glass, it does need edge sanding(depending on how big its not expensive, use 1/4"mirror as base, 1/16 or 1/8 clear for sides, top and front) mate ur edges, to ensure fit, mask edges fine, clear silicone bead along mated parts( dont rush) and tape together for drying. as for ut u will love the reason 4 angled front parts ie 6" bottom and 5"top(sides need to match) after the whole case hase cured, mask only the bottom mirror to bottom of front, silicone it and tape it up, after drying u have a great cae with an opening front hinge, yes the silicone works and lasts, i use the same for fish tanks. i wish i had pics to show, just look at a fish tank, use mirro base and backs. i had 2 32x16x12 any 1 here should have no problem desiging this, go to ur local glass shop with ur specs. give a small one a try. u will love it.

[VW Dave]

Nice work, Jim; I come from a long line of hobbyist woodworkers and model builders, so it's cool when the two can cross over.

sorry felas i don't have the pics anymore,(exwife) i used to be an auto glass/ glazier man, i would cut mirror at size 12x 6 or in my case 18 by 32, but cut ur base, measure back,sides and top to fit leaving an angled front, if u can picture it, after u have the glass, it does need edge sanding(depending on how big its not expensive, use 1/4"mirror as base, 1/16 or 1/8 clear for sides, top and front) mate ur edges, to ensure fit, mask edges fine, clear silicone bead along mated parts( dont rush) and tape together for drying. as for ut u will love the reason 4 angled front parts ie 6" bottom and 5"top(sides need to match) after the whole case hase cured, mask only the bottom mirror to bottom of front, silicone it and tape it up, after drying u have a great cae with an opening front hinge, yes the silicone works and lasts, i use the same for fish tanks. i wish i had pics to show, just look at a fish tank, use mirro base and backs. i had 2 32x16x12 any 1 here should have no problem desiging this, go to ur local glass shop with ur specs. give a small one a try. u will love it.

No offense, but my head kinda hurts after attempting to read that. You should shoot new photos of your how-to and start your own thread on it

[eviltwincustoms]

sorry felas i don't have the pics anymore,(exwife) i used to be an auto glass/ glazier man, i would cut mirror at size 12x 6 or in my case 18 by 32, but cut ur base, measure back,sides and top to fit leaving an angled front, if u can picture it, after u have the glass, it does need edge sanding(depending on how big its not expensive, use 1/4"mirror as base, 1/16 or 1/8 clear for sides, top and front) mate ur edges, to ensure fit, mask edges fine, clear silicone bead along mated parts( dont rush) and tape together for drying. as for ut u will love the reason 4 angled front parts ie 6" bottom and 5"top(sides need to match) after the whole case hase cured, mask only the bottom mirror to bottom of front, silicone it and tape it up, after drying u have a great cae with an opening front hinge, yes the silicone works and lasts, i use the same for fish tanks. i wish i had pics to show, just look at a fish tank, use mirro base and backs. i had 2 32x16x12 any 1 here should have no problem desiging this, go to ur local glass shop with ur specs. give a small one a try. u will love it.

I guess what I don't get from this process and the original post... is why everyone goes back to silicone? This leaves an unsightly distorted look to the edges coming together. Why not use the proper acrylic weld cement, so that it binds the two parts together and if finished off right (sanding the edges and using flame to clear up any scratches) the two parts become one and no distortion where the 3 edges meet to make a corner!

I use to build Acrylic/Lexan Subwoofer boxes and doing this results in a much better end product.

[donkeypuncher76]

actually, when you take mirroe and glass with clear silicone, mask the edges carefully and run a nice smooth bead, it is invisible, perfect example is a well made fish tank, exact same principle. also on the front panel only the bottom is siliconed and acts as a hinge, mine lasted ages, but i was a glass-pro. my pal has a few athis house illpic and post some when ican. happy new year folks