Dr. Cranky Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 All right, chaps. You know I've been using HOK and AUTO AIR COLORS for quite some time, then I clear coat with DuPont Acrylic Clear (right out of the can) and for years I've gotten consistent good to excellent results. Well, you know the story, I got Donn Yost's videos and he got me hooked on using Testor's enamels thinned with cheap (cold) lacquer thinner and today I had an epiphany when I went to sand and buff two of the four 32 Ford bodies I painted before THANKSGIVING. I went to the kitchen sink (where I get the best light) and I thoroughly inspected the bodies and I could not believe my eyes. For the first time in a long time, I did not need--I repeat, DID NOT NEED--to do anything to the body. The paint looked in scale and mirror smooth. Amazing shine. Needless to say, I am very pleased and will continue to paint using this system. Again, thank you DONN YOST! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatRedmond Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Painting with Testors Enamels is a black art. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 LOL, and by that you mean . . . .? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Draggon Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Ive used lacquer thinner with Testor's enamel for ages. I always thought that it worked great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 That's what I've been trying to say, the thing works beautifully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 That's what I've been trying to say, the thing works beautifully. Glad to hear you've found another paint medium you like. Couple questions for you (or Donn) 1) Can you shoot this combo over bare plastic without crazing? 2) If not, what primer do you recommend? 3) Is there still a need to use a dehydrator, or will the paint dry quickly enough without it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 I have to confess, Donn is braver than I am. He uses metallizer paint as a primer. I tried one of the 32s and it works just fine. But I use Plastikote out of habit just to be sure. I have a dehydrator but I've learned to be patient and wait the 3 days it takes for the paint to totally gas out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 I have been using this combo for over 40 years... Shooting on raw plastic rarely presents a problem, but recently some of the plastics from China have caused some minor crazing issues. Tamiya Fine Primer works great as a barrier. I don't use a dehydrator, but I do wait a week or sometimes more before working the paint job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 I guess the older we get the more patient we become! Something like that, then again, I tend to paint 4-6 bodies at a time, so there's always something already done I can start building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Painting with Testors Enamels is a black art. You'd think that it is by the way a lot of folks react to the word , Pat ! It's all in knowing how to use them , people have a tendency to complicate situations needlessly ! I learned the laquer trick off a guy I worked with right out of high school . He was a master sergeant in charge of the Europeon Theater's largest motor pool . I learned quite a bit off of him over the years ! Virgil , you are more than welcome ! It's great to see you carry on like a little kid at Chrismas again ! Lmao ! When using standard colors , I shoot directly onto the bare plastic . As long as you are using cheap laquer thinner , there will be no problems ! I do use the metallizer under my metallic and pearl colors to produce a reflection that comes back through to heighten the color and clarity . Remember ! Enamels are the devil's tool .... But only if you allow them to be ! A win , win , situation straight out of the bottle ! It's all in learning how to use the them ! Old dogs , new tricks , right , Virg ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikethepoormodeler Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Hey, Doc. What ration do you use, paint to thinner? Or, is it just a "feel" thing? Also, could you post a picture in a reply? I'm at work and can't view pictures unless they are in a reply. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatRedmond Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 (edited) Black art/Black magic. Painting with Testors Enamels is a black art. I'll give it a try, Donn. Edited November 29, 2011 by PatRedmond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikethepoormodeler Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Oops, I meant ratio, not ration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Oops, I meant ratio, not ration. Mike , 2 to 1 paint to laquer thinner ratio . Works every single time for me . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Sumner Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 How about some brand names on the exact lacquer thinner? Around here at the big box stores they carry Klean Strip and Sunnyside brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Ambrose Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 I agree about the enamels. I do things a little differently. I use Testor's enamel and Testor's airbrush thinner to thin the paint. (I have to try the lacquer thinner -- next car project) I don't usually have to sand between coats. The paint comes out nice and smooth. This is a byproduct of the slow drying time. I let it dry for at least 36 hours, but can speed that process if I use a "bake box". This is a cardboard box with a low wattage light inside. Works like a dehydrator, without the expense. (What can I say? I'm cheap) I love the resulting finish, and it seems to look good even without clear. I've also done rapid recoating. I wait 15-20 minutes for the paint to skin over, then spray another very thin coat. Keep going until the paint has the depth you need. Put item(s) in bake box to dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent G Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 (edited) Terry I use Klean Strip "Medium Drying" laquer thinner I got at Lowes. It has a product code of QML170 on the back of the can way down in the lower left corner. It works great with Tamiya acrylics also. G Edited November 29, 2011 by Agent G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 How about some brand names on the exact lacquer thinner? Around here at the big box stores they carry Klean Strip and Sunnyside brands. Terry , I use the Sunny Side , convenient for me , the hardware store down the street carries it ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 What Donn said, 2 to 1. Sometimes I confess I add a little extra if it still looks a little thick. Most of the time it works like magic. The other thing I will say is to keep your airbrushes super clean and ready. Which is why I bathe them between paint jobs in my sonic cleaning machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Pugh Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 I own the video and I guess I need to break it out for a refresher course but I can't remember right off hand, are you guys clear-coating or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 Greg, I have already seen it about a dozen times. I confess I have short term memory (not to mention I am also OCC) and I watch it before I do a paint job every time. LOL, I meant, OCD . . . I guess OCC is OBSESSIVE COMPULSIVELY CORRODED! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 I guess rust never does sleep , eh , Virgil ! Lol ! If you take notes and follow the method to the letter , it will become second nature . Consistent paint work will follow time and time again ! Greg , I only use the clear on the metallics and pearls , the standard colors polish out to a beautiful gloss all on their own . Can you use it ? , sure , I just don't find a need for it . The single most important thing aside from controlling the paint environment is following the prep procedures to the letter ! The steps that are laid out in the DVD are the guide lines that I follow each and every time I airbrush a body . Virgil , a bit more thinner with the old standard Testor bottles ( 1/4 oz ) is a good thing , they are a bit thicker . By doing so with the 1/2 oz jars , you might have to add a few more mist coats to get the coverage and sheen that you are looking for . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 Thanks, Donn. Yes, I've been adding a little extra thinner just to make it flow better. Even though I am loving all this shiny paint, I still have RUST running in my blood. I just can't help it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 I have to confess, I haven't been an enamels adict, but, recently, I did a try for the first time ever to a Scalefinishes acrylic enamel gloss black, and it was real impressive the way it turned out. I don't have any lacquer painted model that has turned out like this one. I post it as soon as I finish it this weekend. Simón P. Rivera Torres Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 I have been using this combo for over 40 years... Shooting on raw plastic rarely presents a problem, but recently some of the plastics from China have caused some minor crazing issues. Tamiya Fine Primer works great as a barrier. I don't use a dehydrator, but I do wait a week or sometimes more before working the paint job. I thought you were 35? hhhmmmm..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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