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Enamels WIN!


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The other thing I must say about Donn's videos is that they are very viewer friendly. You have a chapter index with titles ha will help guide you through detailing a build, etc . . .

So you can build and follow along in stages . . . which is what I am doing and having a blast.

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Tim, House of Kolor makes a Rainbow Mini Flakes that I mix in with the clear and it works. They have them in order colors in particular silver and gold, which really are helping me get closer to that 70s all-out flakes/bling.

When using the House of Kolor paint system, these things are a bit easier to do because they have intercoat clear and a flakes carrier, but I think it's a bit trickier with the enamel paint, but as Donn says, you can let the paint set for a couple of days and move on to the next stage.

What I'm enjoying about all of this is the experimentation, including some new things I want to try on bare styrene using alcohol inks, and some pearl mist flakes from the Crafts world. Just to see what kind of effects I can get.

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All right folks, here are some paint jobs coming out of the dry room . . . I am convinced that if you are patient and let the paint gas out (approximately 3 days or 12 hours in the dehydrator) you get some very shiny results. The two 41 Willyses have been buffed and polished, the 69 Nova is just cleared.

Let me explain some of what I did . . .

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I believe that some of the most fun you can have painting is mixing your own color, so this Nova is a combination of Bright Green Pearl, Lime Green Pearl, Pearl Ex green pearls and House of Kolor rainbow mini flakes.

I followed Donn's method to the letter with the application of the first round of paint, allowed for it to dry, then I sanded and buffed the paint smooth, took my star template and Testors Brass paint and fogged in the stars. The metalizer paints work like a charm and they dry instantly. Remember this is all airbrush work. I fogged the stars in a random pattern on the vehicle, then I applied the Pearl Ex powders mixed in with Testors clears thinned a few drops more than 2:1.

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As you can see the results are really really amazing. Again, just having fun experimenting. I think if the excitement continues I would like to try thinning the new Ed "Big Daddy" Roth Lettering and Striping Enamels (available through Coastairbrush.com) with lacquer thinner and giving it a try to see what happens.

Let me know what you think, and stay tuned in for some pics of the 41 Willyses.

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And here's the other one done in copper with lots of Pearl Ex powders . . .this one has House of Kolor Rainbow mini flakes in the clear:

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When I begin assembly, I hope to take better pictures to share with everyone . . .

Thanks for staying tuned in . . .

The bottom line is that the Testors Clear DOES give you that miles-deep shine, but the lacquer thinner keeps everything tight to the body, which is great.

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Donn, you are right, the pictures don't do these puppies justice. I am so darn happy, I am besides myself.

I am planning on doing some more experiments this weekend as I am planning to use primer so that I can combine a couple of paint systems to see what happens, including cutting the enamel paints with medium temp House of Kolor lacquer so that I can combine some effects.

You know, in all these years of building models I was always frustrated because I always feared ending up with a model that would undoubtedly end up in the Purple Pond, but I don't care anymore.

If I am getting good results, I don't mind sacrificing a model every once in a while. I mean, I messed up the first try with those 2 Willyses, but they came through.

I want to do more graphics work. I have a whole bunch of template materials I want to try. At this pace I am going to end up with a dozen or so models that I can then build in the new year.

It's all very exciting. Stay tuned in for more fun!

Again, thanks Donn for sharing your knowledge!

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Tim, what continues to be exciting about this thread is that lots of folks, like you, are experimenting. House of Kolor has a color called Blue Blood that's really deep and a little on the dark side. If you use it as a base coat and then put on a light coat of candy apple red, that might get you what you are after.

I'm been looking through a lot of the paint jobs on the late 60s and 70s gassers and altereds and some have these spectacular paint job. Most of them done with lace for templates, but also some gold leaf foil work . . .

They've got me reeling . . .

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Yes, I'm doing that. Someone earlier mention the trick of "kissing" the paint which has to do with the last coat of clear being, in my case as I am applying it, a bit thinner and it really goes on like a mirror.

I've also been misting water around the area where I spray to keep all the dust and particles away from the model. It seems to be working beautifully.

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I'm doing it slow and methodically, some experiments to see what happens. I have a brand new box of plastic spoons. I will keep everyone posted. Stay tuned in.

Sweet, if you have lace and other types of in-scale doilies, etc . . . yeah, I'd love some.

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I went to the fabric store and picked up a whole bunch of lace ribbons (many with some nice flower designs) that I think are going to look good on a couple of 56 Del Rays I want to do. Also my Riviera which is in primer awaiting paint sometime this week.

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Me thinks the good Dr. Cranky is starting to come up with an idea for his next book...Custom Painting !

I am glad that Donn's methods are working for you Dr. as I was hooked on his DVD when I met him last year. The models he had on display were amazing with the depth of their shine and the custom colors he came up with for them. I am working on setting up a paint area in the garage as I want it to be safe and also clean so I can get dirt free paint jobs when I do them. It was funny to read about Dr. Cranky wetting down his spray area, I remember doing that with friends years ago when I would help them paint 1:1 cars at the body shop or in the garage.

Keep the information coming, I am having fun reading about it!

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Donn, just as you said in the vid: the fat fendered vehicles need to have paint in the seams . . . they paint pulled away and I ended up with light bands on the inside edges. The other thing that happened was that the flakes migrated toward the edges . . . the problem is I put too much paint on too fast. My fault.

A wise man who painted Titan III boosters for a living taught me to spray the seams and creases. Let them dry a bit, then paint the whole thing again. That idea has served me very well. The problem areas get two coats, and usually get completely covered.

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Donn, does some of the most amazing paint work I have seen. His work jumps out at you when you see it at contests. I have been using the same painting methods as Donn for a lot of years now, and I am considered a Good Painter, but Donn's work is just above and beyond Great!

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I like the idea of a CUSTOM PAINTING BOOK!

Have you guys seen the two volumes on the subject (real cars though) that CRAIG FRASER has published. AMAZING stuff. I've learned a lot from Craig Fraser over the years.

I just wish more of his templates would be brought down to model painting scale.

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