Dirkpitt289 Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 I hope this makes sense... I was curious to know for those of you who use rattle can paint do you ever use it in your airbrush? It's been my experience that one has more control when painting with an airbrush rather than a rattle can. Let’s not forget that there are decidedly more precise colors in the can. My question is how do you transfer the paint from the rattle can to a container cleanly for use with an air brush?
SuperStockAndy Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 Right here. http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/tutorial/3 Ironically enough, I had the same problem yesterday.
Dr. Cranky Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 Here's how I do mine: What you need: accordion straws, plastic bottle, two part epoxy or GREEN STUFF, tape . . . Cut the straw to size: Mix the two part epoxy or poster tack will work too, and set it up like this: That should do it, then thin the paint to the right consistency to use with airbrush. Good luck.
Dirkpitt289 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Posted February 6, 2012 That was my next question if you thin the spary paint after. Thanks for the info guys.
Dr. Cranky Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 Depending on how thick or thin it is, yes. If it's runny like 2% milk consistency, then it's ready to go, if not then reduce.
Stephen H Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 Ahh cool to know that this can be done without too much of a mess. Was curious myself. Thanks all for the info
Pete J. Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 I follow a completely differant approach. First thing I do is turn the can upside down and release all the propellent, just like I was going to clean the nozzle before storing it, except I get rid of all the gas. I then set it aside for several hours. This does two things, first is that it prevents the paint from getting any moisture in it from condensation because it is cooled from the drop in pressure. Second it allows the paint to off gas in the can and I have no fear of boil over as it warms up. Once the can is back to room tempurature, I repeat the process because the gas coming out of the paint will have built up a little pressure. I then heat the can in hot water to warm it and shake to bijebbers out of it. (bijebbers are those nasty little gremlins that ruin a perfect paint job. ) Once I am convinced the paint is well mixed, I lay the can on it's side on the bench and take an ice pick or an awl and punch two holes in the can. One as close to the bottom seam as I can and one near the top. I tip the can with the bottom hole over the jar I want to fill and use a finger over the top hole to control the flow. This method allows me to get all the paint that is in the can out. Once I have extracted all the paint that way. I use a hypodermic to squirt a little thinner in the can and shake it again, to get any residual paint out. This is a safe and easy way to get all the paint that you paid for.
Dirkpitt289 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Posted February 6, 2012 That sounds like a cool idea also.
CadillacPat Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 (edited) "Removing Paint From Aerosol Cans for AirBrush Use" "Removing Paint From Aerosol Cans To Use In Your AirBrush" Several years ago I invented a way to remove aerosol paint from its container and Toy Car and Model Magazine saw it online and ran it their magazine. If you care to use it you're more than welcome to. This Tutorial also appears here at this link, http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17308&view=findpost&p=580319 Those of you who own an AirBrush can remove paint from any Model Master, Testors, Boyd, Duplicolor, etc., aerosol can and use the product in your AirBrush getting much better results than simply spraying it from the can. Here's a trick I came up with to transfer paint from the aerosol can to a container so I could spray it through my Airbrush. Toy Car and Model Magazine saw it online, contacted me and requested to publish it. You will need a 3" - 4" length of plastic drinking straw, some 1" wide tape, and of course a suitable container. I collect the empty film cans from local WalMart Photoshops. This soft pliable plastic will not react with automotive paints. 1st-----Butt the straw up to the hole in the button of the Aerosol can. In most cases with Duplicolor, the straw will actually slip over a short protrusion in the button. 2nd-----Wrap the tape around the straw and button so they are held together firmly and tightly. 3rd-----Just spray your paint into whatever container you've chosen. The straw will perform like a muffler, choking down the escaping gases and allowing the paint to gently run out the end of the straw. If you're only using small amounts of paint, you can just spray the paint directly into your paint cup. CadillacPat Edited February 6, 2012 by CadillacPat
wgflatliner Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 Here's how I do mine: What you need: accordion straws, plastic bottle, two part epoxy or GREEN STUFF, tape . . . Cut the straw to size: Mix the two part epoxy or poster tack will work too, and set it up like this: That should do it, then thin the paint to the right consistency to use with airbrush. Good luck. Nice. But that sure doesn't look like orange paint in the bottle!
Dr. Cranky Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 LOL, Mark, good eye. I set it up for the picture and used coca cola instead of FANTA! :lol:
High octane Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 I usually just transfer the paint from the spray can directly to the model.
moparmagiclives Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 I follow a completely differant approach. First thing I do is turn the can upside down and release all the propellent, just like I was going to clean the nozzle before storing it, except I get rid of all the gas. I then set it aside for several hours. This does two things, first is that it prevents the paint from getting any moisture in it from condensation because it is cooled from the drop in pressure. Second it allows the paint to off gas in the can and I have no fear of boil over as it warms up. Once the can is back to room tempurature, I repeat the process because the gas coming out of the paint will have built up a little pressure. I then heat the can in hot water to warm it and shake to bijebbers out of it. (bijebbers are those nasty little gremlins that ruin a perfect paint job. ) Once I am convinced the paint is well mixed, I lay the can on it's side on the bench and take an ice pick or an awl and punch two holes in the can. One as close to the bottom seam as I can and one near the top. I tip the can with the bottom hole over the jar I want to fill and use a finger over the top hole to control the flow. This method allows me to get all the paint that is in the can out. Once I have extracted all the paint that way. I use a hypodermic to squirt a little thinner in the can and shake it again, to get any residual paint out. This is a safe and easy way to get all the paint that you paid for. I've never heard of anyone doing this with a spray can...has it ever "NOT" worked for you ??? Was there a test period of getting the right amount of time in between steps.. I get a lot of touch up cans from work, I may have to try this out.
MoparWoman Jamie Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 (edited) Heck, I don't go through half the process you guys do with decenting paint from a paint can, I just get a small paint jar out, a straw, an the spray paint can, an I just hold the straw to the paint can nozzle where nothing escapes an I spray until the small paint jar is full. I throw the straw away, put the spray can back, leave the small paint jar open for alittle while to gas out before I go air brushing. Edited February 6, 2012 by zerodude
Dr. Cranky Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 Jim, that's about right until what happened to me which made a mess. You've got to have a steady hand to hold the straw in front of the rattle can nozzle, if you don't well, it's time for cleanup. I recommend everyone puts on their latest gloves and their mask. You don't want to take any chances when you are working with paints. Also, goggles to protect your eyes.
SuperStockAndy Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 I recommend everyone puts on their latest gloves and their mask. You don't want to take any chances when you are working with paints. Also, goggles to protect your eyes. Haha, yesterday I squirted thinner in my right eye. Didn't even hurt
Austin T Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 Haha, yesterday I squirted thinner in my right eye. Didn't even hurt That might need to be checked out if it didn't hurt.
Dr. Cranky Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 Andy, next time such a thing happens, please get your folks to look into it. Sometimes washing your eyes out with a bit of water will help. Come on, buddy, learn NOT TO take chances and risks with your health! It's the smart thing to do.
SuperStockAndy Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 Andy, next time such a thing happens, please get your folks to look into it. Sometimes washing your eyes out with a bit of water will help. Come on, buddy, learn NOT TO take chances and risks with your health! It's the smart thing to do. First thing I did was rinse it out. I was using a Windex bottle for spraying my thinner, when I was squirting it, it moved out of place a bit and got in my eye. Maybe next time I should wear glasses Comment Deleted* That might need to be checked out if it didn't hurt. Yeah, I'm not blind now so I'd say I'm alright.
Erik Smith Posted February 6, 2012 Posted February 6, 2012 I have sprayed small amounts of paint directly from the can (with straw) into the cup on my airbrush. "Small amount" being enough just to fill the portion of the cup just over the needle. I do not know if this could be done with a larger volume and it might agitate and explode in your face, but it worked for a very small touch up.
Mike Kucaba Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 I have a bag of those thin tubes that are usually taped to the side of something like carb cleaner and Wd_40. I drill out a spare tip and epoxy the tube into the hole and after it dries it's good to go. Another way is to degas the can(I use a c-clamp that ratchets) and clamp down on the tip while the can is upside down and the hang the thing on a wire,letting all the gas out. Then I rip the top off with a large pair of side cutters.
SuperStockAndy Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 Sheesh, I guess you missed the gigantic picture I posted. The "Comment deleted" was a quote from you. What, exactly, is this "poke the can" you're talking about? And, I'm not sure, but I think the propellant is Co2, which obviously is what we breathe out. Have you ever tried getting paint out of a can without a straw? I had a little metal cup. As soon as there was paint at the bottom, it was all shooting out. It was a failed attempt at getting paint out of the can WITHOUT a straw.
southernboy Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 I understand that the pressure has been removed using the "poke the can" method, but it's still just not very smart in my opinion. First off, you've vented all the propellant to the atmosphere. I'm not a Hippie Treehugger, but that certainly cannot be very good for the environment. Do you not release it into the atmosphere when you spray it directly from the can to the model, or into a jar? Seems to me anytime you spray it it's venting propellant into the atmosphere. IMO
Harry P. Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 And, I'm not sure, but I think the propellant is Co2, which obviously is what we breathe out. From howstuffworks.com: Up until the 1980s, a lot of liquefied-gas aerosol cans used chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) as a propellant. After scientists concluded that CFCs were harmful to the ozone layer, 70 nations signed the Montreal Protocol, an agreement to phase out CFC use over the next decade. Today, almost all aerosol cans contain alternative propellants, such as liquefied petroleum gas, which do not pose as serious a threat to the environment.
SuperStockAndy Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) Ah, thanks. Edited February 7, 2012 by SuperStockAndy
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