How to work with diecast?

[Hedgehog]

I guess my question explains some of my doubts. Is it similar to work in a diecast model than in a plastic model? In aspects such as Painting and detailing. Is it possible to make body modifications? With the same tools that use on plastic.

[Harry P.]

Most diecast models have bodies of cast white metal, while the rest of the model (chassis, engine, interior) is usually plastic. Working with a diecast body isn't exactly the same as working with plastic bodies.

You need a power tool (Dremel with a cutoff wheel) to make cuts in the body... using a razor saw and making cuts by hand is possible but labor-intensive. Joining cut metal parts requires epoxy instead of styrene glue. Body filler (Bondo, for example) is the best thing to use for filling seams, creating contours, etc. Just about any paint can be used, just prime first. The rest of the plastic parts can be worked pretty much the same as a typical plastic model kit, but sometimes the plastic used in diecast models is a different type than the plastic used in typical plastic kits, so you'll need a different glue (CA or epoxy) instead of styrene glue.

[62rebel]

i've also seen that modifying a diecast that has opening features can create a pyramid of problems when it comes to having to make ever more changes to OTHER parts to get the car back together..... they rely on a LOT of "this part is held by this part, which is in turn held in by THIS part..."

[cobraman]

I have had pretty good luck using JB Weld for minor custom changes when working on a die cast.

[jeffs396]

I prefer a cleaner, less dusty route...chain drilling:

snap out the area:

Now the hand filing, some sanding, and hardly any dust!

[cobraman]

Tell the truth. Do you ever jab yourself with those sharp points? : ) Looks like that works pretty good.

[Chuck Most]

i've also seen that modifying a diecast that has opening features can create a pyramid of problems when it comes to having to make ever more changes to OTHER parts to get the car back together..... they rely on a LOT of "this part is held by this part, which is in turn held in by THIS part..."

That's the one thing that's stalled the few diecast-based projects I've had on the table. You've heard the 'Chinese puzzle' metaphor? It applies. Granted, the same can be said for plastic kits with lots of opening panels, but plastic is a bit more forgiving to work with than diecast metal.

[62rebel]

i ran into this issue with the new tool AMT '57 Chevy, since i love to section and customize fifties cars... every time you remove something from the body, you end up having to recalculate everything inside to keep things fitting properly. i've never rebuilt or modified a diecast, but working with some of the ones that Polar Lights and Revell have redone in plastic (GTO, Bullitt) tells me that they're not easy to make substantive changes to.

[Chuck Most]

Exactly. One change begets another. And another. And another...

[Mike Kucaba]

I ruined some of my best carbide bits working on that Zamac (sp) stuff that qualifies as "diecast metal" White metal works very easily with hand tools such as files,emery boards and the usual stuff we use on plastic.

[Art Anderson]

I ruined some of my best carbide bits working on that Zamac (sp) stuff that qualifies as "diecast metal" White metal works very easily with hand tools such as files,emery boards and the usual stuff we use on plastic.

True tungsten carbide cutters in a Dremel are completely unaffected by Zamak in my experience. Zamak is an alloy of zinc, tin, copper and aluminum, and as such is far softer than a carbide cutting tool. I've cut up numerous diecasts over the years, and am still using my original Dremel carbide cutters.

Art

[CadillacPat]

I prefer a cleaner, less dusty route...chain drilling:

snap out the area:

Now the hand filing, some sanding, and hardly any dust!

Your certainly on the right track there Jeff,

Drilling followed by filing and sanding will do the job for body mods on DieCast.

I use a Jewelers Saw for the accuracy and cleanliness of the job.

Dremels and cutoff wheels are the messiest things in the world and don't fit the job when you need to be precise about your cuts.

Dremels are fine for detailed sanding using special bits or for removing stock with Carbide Cutters but for precision I always use my Jewelers Saw.

CadillacPat

[wraith]

I have modded some diecast before and I am doing one right now. The trick to diecast in my opinion is not to do to much to the body. Usually just a strip, prime and repaint to the color I want. Files and agressive sandpaper will fix seem lines and fix lil imperfections. I have had good luck using JBWELD to fill gaps and holes and such. Sometime diecast are more fun to do for me as you cannot get overly creative with it. Just and strip and repaint and on the shelf. they usually get done way faster than my plastic models!

[Mike Kucaba]

"True tungsten carbide cutters in a Dremel are completely unaffected by Zamak

Thanks Art, after 30 years using them in lathes,mills and drills,you'd think I'd know what a carbide cutter was.

Maybe you have an idea as to what I was cutting that damaged them?

[CadillacPat]

JB Weld, JB Qwik, QuikSteel, Milliput White, Apoxie Sculpt,

All will work fine with DieCast.

CadillacPat

[Art Anderson]

"True tungsten carbide cutters in a Dremel are completely unaffected by Zamak

Thanks Art, after 30 years using them in lathes,mills and drills,you'd think I'd know what a carbide cutter was.

Maybe you have an idea as to what I was cutting that damaged them?

Mike,

I would have no idea beyond perhaps running them at too high a speed--causing them to overheat perhaps (?). My personal "go-to" carbide cutter is a 1/8" diameter cylindrical cutter, such as the Dremel part having a rounded nose on it. Those can be worked just like a side mill in your Dremel. I'd use a variable speed Dremel, and simply experiment with speeds, dialing it up a bit faster until you find that optimal rpm that let's the cutter do its thing. The same size Dremel HSS (High Speed Steel) cutter works quite well also, but those do dull over time.

Art

[AzTom]

I use all types of saws, depending on the cut. I have regular hack saws, jewelers saw, coping saw and many files in all shapes. I also have a Dremel and a Roto-Zip. The Roto-Zip is like a Dremel on steroids and I would highly recommend one if you're doing a lot of cutting.

As for the Carbide bits being ruined, I would guess running too fast as Art said. Running too fast will clog up the bit in a hurry. almost melting the zinc to it.

I can not remember running into the "this part is held by this part, which is in turn held in by THIS part" ordeal, but I may have just looked at it as part of the build???

AzTom

[Bastardo]

I've modified tens of DC models so far and they're no boogie-man-type-of-thing-you-should-be-scared-of Yeah, they're different to work on tn plastic models, but they also offer some benefits, such as a harder body, most of the panels open and so on.

Don't get me wrong - I prefer plastic models, but I'll never say no to a DC if it has potential