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Posted

Hi there modelers, a little help on how to bend styrene tubes, I was told to use a candle but I lose control of the tube after I give it some heat the tube distorts any help will be appreciated..

Guest GreggH
Posted

K & N makes tubing benders, they will work on plastic also.

Posted

Try holding the rod along side the candle flame as opposed to over it. Go in slow and keep trying to bend it so you'll get a feel for how far away from the flame works best.

Posted (edited)

It should be K&S and I have bought their tube bender. They do help bend the tube (rod), but I could never get the spring bender back off. I couldn't recommend it. Here's a link so you can see it.

I does say brass, aluminum and copper, so maybe they come off easier with metal than with plastic.

Edited by Foxer
Posted (edited)

You don't need heat to bend 1/16" ROD. Slowly bend it a little at a time until you get the shape you want, then while holding it so you have the amount of bend you need, hit it quickly with a lighter/candle to hold it's shape.This is way easier than using heat to make the bend. If the part you are bending will hold it's shape from being glued to other parts, you can skip the heat entirely.

If you look at this frame, you will see very little scorch marks from using heat to make the bends, all the rest were bent cold. It;s also made from 1/8" rod, 1/15" bends even easier.

PB070370.jpg

Edited by Psychographic
Posted

I bend Evergreen .080" rod all the time! When I make a frame, I do use a rat-tail file to help make the rod-to-rod joint. After I have the fit, CA seems to work fine, so far. And, "so far" is going on 10 years in the case of some models. A mechanical joint would bee a good idea for "U" loops, as in for single-seat roll bars (I do vintage 1320).

The catch is that you have to bend it over hard-plastic or metal to make the bend. And, you have to go slow, bend it gently. U use corkboard and straight pins (or map pins) to hold the bends overnight. In most cases, there is a crosspiece that holds the bent rod. Not problems. Also, Plastruct has 1/16-inch (total OD) plastic-covered metal rod what holds it's shape very well.

Posted

Thanks guys very helpful, I completed the cockpit of my project today, I took pix of the who thing I will post them in the under bench section.

I am trying to build a 3/4 chassis Mazda Rx3 rotary turbo so far so good again thanks for the help guys...

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