Agent G Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 I picked up the repop of the MPC Roadrunner for the steel wheels and dog dish hub caps. I really need those for several cop car projects. My question, what's the best way to assemble the wheels, tires, and hub caps so I can cast them as one? White glue? I want to be able to un assemble them after wards. Will using clay help in making a two piece mold? Any help is appreciated. I have made one piece molds successfully but not two piece. G
martinfan5 Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 What would it take to get a few sets from you after you get them casted?
Danno Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 Paging the Master Caster, Mr. Greg Wann ... Paging the Master Caster ... To the white courtesy phone, please ...
Agent G Posted July 31, 2012 Author Posted July 31, 2012 What would it take to get a few sets from you after you get them casted? Lunch at Danno's................................ G
martinfan5 Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 Lunch at Danno's................................ G Hmm, let me see what I can do Oh wait, that would mean you would have to make a trip down here
Greg Wann Posted August 1, 2012 Posted August 1, 2012 (edited) Paging the Master Caster, Mr. Greg Wann ... Paging the Master Caster ... To the white courtesy phone, please ... Hello Danno, Yes, Yes, I have those on my to do list. I think it is the same items. You would know or you would not have called me. They would be quick to do if I could just stay focused. I have been working on some special projects and getting my Cosma Ray molds in order and some new ones made. Turns out the molds are going to be less work than I presumed. My wife also has me on the house remodel detail. I have been several days cleaning the edges of tile so that it can be finally grouted after about 8 years of unfinished work. I will get on those wheels. Edited August 1, 2012 by Greg Wann
Greg Wann Posted August 1, 2012 Posted August 1, 2012 (edited) http://smcbofphx.pro...lay&thread=1163 Wayne, There should be enogh info here to show what I do. I have glued items together with Elmers. Once you are done with the mold proccess you can soak them in water to get them apart. Edited August 1, 2012 by Greg Wann
Greg Wann Posted August 1, 2012 Posted August 1, 2012 (edited) http://www.sulky.com...x_adhesives.php I tried to edit my above post without success. Here is a product that might be useful for such an endeavor. It came with a Decal Pro FX kit. Yes, you will need clay. Art has mentioned another brand but I don't know where to purchase it. I buy a repackaged Klean Klay from Alumilite. It is the best deal I can find on the net. If you have a Hobby Town near you they might order it in to save you some postage. I had a Hobby Town order in some rubbery resin for my toilet plunger project and they saved me postage but it is a hour drive from my home so I'm not sure it was a great idea. I think Joann Fabrics carries the Sulky products. Michaels does not for some odd reason. Edited August 1, 2012 by Greg Wann
Greg Wann Posted August 1, 2012 Posted August 1, 2012 (edited) You're welcome,Wayne The original Greg Wann, thank God there is only one of us! Edited August 1, 2012 by Greg Wann
Art Anderson Posted August 2, 2012 Posted August 2, 2012 http://www.sulky.com...x_adhesives.php I tried to edit my above post without success. Here is a product that might be useful for such an endeavor. It came with a Decal Pro FX kit. Yes, you will need clay. Art has mentioned another brand but I don't know where to purchase it. I buy a repackaged Klean Klay from Alumilite. It is the best deal I can find on the net. If you have a Hobby Town near you they might order it in to save you some postage. I had a Hobby Town order in some rubbery resin for my toilet plunger project and they saved me postage but it is a hour drive from my home so I'm not sure it was a great idea. I think Joann Fabrics carries the Sulky products. Michaels does not for some odd reason. The clay I mentioned, and used throughout my years in resin-casting is AMACO (American Art Clay Company) X-11, which is a moist, grey pottery clay. It's real clay, which softens with water, and cleans up with water as well. Look at Hobby Lobby, Michael's or any good craft or art store. Comes in 5lb quantities, and lasts for a long, long time when stored in an airtight container. Art
Chariots of Fire Posted August 9, 2012 Posted August 9, 2012 I used clay I purchased at Michaels when I cast the fenders and headlight pods for my Mack AP. It comes in a block and has to be kneaded to soften it a bit. Once that is done I used it to set up the masters and then poured the outside half of the mold. When that was done I turned the mold block upside down and pulled out the clay from the inside. It came out very clean unlike the cheap stuff they sell for kids ot play with. Then I was able to apply mold release and pour the second half of the mold. No problems at all.
Agent G Posted August 12, 2012 Author Posted August 12, 2012 And that's my plan as well. I'll be starting this project this week. Stay tuned. G
Greg Wann Posted August 12, 2012 Posted August 12, 2012 (edited) Wayne, Do you still plan to cast the wheel and cap as one piece? If it is not too late you may try two glued together and two not glued together. Here's why. Once your mold is made the mold will have very fine detail making these two parts look separate. That is the definition in the mold I would look for. This makes the silicone in this area very thin and it can be a week point in the mold. It could actually become caught in your master parts and tear out when your master is removed. I would inspect them very carefully under a magnifier before beginning this mold. You could also mix a small amount of silicone, let it cure in that area and then pull out the cured part to see what it will look like. Just a suggestion. I am amazed where silicone will go and not go into detail of parts. Once you get to the point of spraying mold release in to make part two of the mold take Q-tips and remove all the mold release you can from the masters surface. Silicone won't stick there anyway but it will see every bit of detail if the mold release is rough there. In this scale a rough area on a wheel will look bad. I have a set of these wheels. I stripped the chrome and that lacquer finish from them. The chrome covers a good bit of detail on the dog dish cap. Greg Edited August 12, 2012 by Greg Wann
Agent G Posted August 12, 2012 Author Posted August 12, 2012 Very timely tip Greg thank you so much! I'm finishing an armor build first, and haven't started the wheels just yet. G
Danno Posted August 12, 2012 Posted August 12, 2012 I have a set of these wheels. I stripped the chrome and that lacquer finish from them. The chrome covers a good bit of detail on the dog dish cap. Greg Wayne, I'm watching for your results ... Looking forward to seeing how they turn out. One can never have too many Mopar cop car wheels! Greg gives good advice.
martinfan5 Posted August 12, 2012 Posted August 12, 2012 (edited) Wayne, I'm watching for your results ... Looking forward to seeing how they turn out. One can never have too many Mopar cop car wheels! Greg gives good advice. I agree, I would gladly pay a very nice small price for a few sets Edited August 12, 2012 by martinfan5
Greg Wann Posted August 13, 2012 Posted August 13, 2012 I made an attempt to use the temporary glue on the wheel and cap but could not get it centered as perfectly as I would like so I am just claying them up as separate parts. I was going to show putting the lesson to the test but since I understand that you understand, I understand that I won't need to bother.
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