32 ford donor kit?

[blueoval92]

I was wondering what would be a good donor kit for a 32 ford tudor sedan resin body. Im looking for a good detailed chassis and possibly interior. more so the dash.

[Fat Brian]

Probably Revells 32 Tudor kit would be the best choice, it was recently out and probably still easy to find and it is a really nice kit.

[blueoval92]

would that happen to be the 2 in 1 kit with the devil face on the grill?

[Fat Brian]

No, the one with the devil face is a five window, this is the one I'm talking about,

[Kris Morgan]

Perhaps contact the caster and, ask what i the proper donor for the body?

[Jantrix]

Perhaps contact the caster and, ask what i the proper donor for the body?

Yep, that's the right thing to do. If the body was rendered off another '32 kit you might be disappointed.

[Ace-Garageguy]

It really all depends on the build-style you want to do.

All the Revell '32 frames are identical, but a couple have alternative hairpin-style front radius rods to replace the later style 4-link that's in all the kits. Rear suspensions on all are air-bag, long-link ford 9" with disc brakes, and the front axles are all dropped tube-type, again with disc brakes. No way to build a traditional rod from them without considerable work.

The AMT '32 Victoria and Phaeton have acceptable frames with buggy-spring rear ends, stock-style K-members, etc. but the rails have no reveal detail and are too narrow (too close together and require wider crossmembers if you're doing a fenderless, NON-channeled car). They can work OK for a channeled car. As these are all pretty well 'scale-models', the AMT frames WILL work under Revell bodies, or resin bodies derived from Revell parts without too much rework. I say this from first-hand experience and experimentation.

The AMT Phantom Vickie has a higher-tech street-rod style frame that will also work, and it has a good tubular center member instead of the simple crossmember of the Revell frame or the stock K-member in the other AMT frames. It has pretty nice independent front suspension and a Mustang rear axle and trailing arms, again with disc brakes all around.

The frames from the AMT '32 roadster and 5-W coupe kits have blobular rear suspension all molded-in-one-piece, and are useless unless you want to do a LOT of work.

[blueoval92]

well im getting the body on trade from a member here and i do not know who the caster of the body is. as far as the style i want to build it will be a radical channeled and chopped body, straight axle rear, drop spindle front, raked front grill, no hood with custom support rods running from radiator back to firewall. Im going for a super custom build, no where near stock. This is a crazy idea ive had in my mind for some time now and cant wait to see what it could look like.

I think ill look into the kit fat brian mentioned as well as the 5 window devil face kit because ive read that it has a few sets of wheels and tires and a couple engines all in the kit. I will probably end up buying 3 kits just to build one car lol, cant put a price on a dream i guess.

[Bernard Kron]

This may be a somewhat useless comment, but I have found that many resin bodies diverge significantly enough from the dimensions of their original donor bodies that they actually don't fit the original chassis from the donor kit all that well. In these cases I have landed up making my own chassis from styrene stock instead. For reaonably authentic looking Deuce main frame rails I would go with the Revell kits and fabricate the appropriate crossmembers as needed. For a buggy spring rear suspension either the Revell 28-30 Ford Rat Rod kits or the AMT '29 Ford Model A Roadster kit providfe excellent parts for that sort of work.

[blueoval92]

i have thought about making my own frame but dont really want to. if all i have to do is make some wider cross members then i will be very happy. i may even Z the frame so i can get away with a less aggressive channel on the body.