Der Bugmeister Posted November 4, 2012 Posted November 4, 2012 (edited) Current project, moving along slowly, is this '29 Ford pickup. Although the kit name calls it a Rat Rod, it can also be built as a stock ride or a period style hotrod. I'm not building this as a rat... Current state: Sprayed with Krylon Black and Brown on top of black primer, only one coat so far. Needs some wet sanding before the next coat but I'm going to catch the rest of the parts up first. The final stance will have more rake to it, but I'll be using these wheels (from the kit) Now for a question about how to approach painting of smaller bits...the doors and engine cover sections are hinged (see the photo of the assembly instructions). I aim to have them articulating, and they require painting on both sides. What is the best method here? Assemble then paint, or paint then assemble? If assembling first, how do you protect against the paint locking it all together? If painting first, what glue do you use to assemble? CA, or scrape down to plastic and use Testors Orange tube? For painting both sides, I assume the best method would be sticking them on tape and painting one side at a time, allowing the paint to cure before flipping. Would you start with the side less viewed, or the most visible side? Edited November 4, 2012 by Der Bugmeister
bryan_m Posted November 4, 2012 Posted November 4, 2012 i usually use some chopsticks with double sided tape on them to hold parts. i would paint one side, let it dry very well, and then shoot the other side... nice start, love the whitewalls cheers bryan
Der Bugmeister Posted November 4, 2012 Author Posted November 4, 2012 Thanks, Bryan. I saw the Lone Wolf airbrushing primer video where he uses pipe nipples (I have some now) for some parts, and for smaller parts he just stuck them all on a strip of tape. I think for something like the doors, that could lead to paint buildup on the edges where it would collect in the corner formed by the tape and the part...I'll have to look for some chopsticks now too!
bryan_m Posted November 4, 2012 Posted November 4, 2012 i also use dowel rods and wrap them with tape, with the sticky side out....... or if it is something that you wont see the other side of i will glue a small piece of tubing to it, and i have clamps attached to dowels that i use to hold them while painting............gimme a min, and ill get you a pic of what i use....... bryan
bryan_m Posted November 4, 2012 Posted November 4, 2012 here ya go clay...... the bottom ones are dowels with clips attached to them for small parts...... the center is the chopsticks with double sided tape, and the uppr ones are dowels with larger clamps for big parts.......ive been using them forever, and they work great. and theyre really cheap to make! hope it helps cheers bryan
Del Austin Posted November 5, 2012 Posted November 5, 2012 If your going for accuracy I'd say ditch the kit hinges and use a set of PE hinges as they closely resemble the stock model A hood hinges.
Der Bugmeister Posted November 5, 2012 Author Posted November 5, 2012 @ Del - I debated that, Del, but I'm not getting that picky with this build. It's only my second since getting back into the hobby and I'm trying to consolidate some other new techniques during this one...so I'll be using the ones in the kit this time around. @ HAK - thanks! @ Bryan - thanks for the pics. I do need to get more clips and clamps like that. I think the double sided tape/chopstick route will work best for the doors and hood panels. Still looking for suggestions on painting before or after assembly!
Der Bugmeister Posted November 28, 2012 Author Posted November 28, 2012 Slowly but surely...this is pretty close to the final stance. I found some mesh that looked how I wanted for the grill. At this rate, should be done about March!
Pat Minarick Posted November 28, 2012 Posted November 28, 2012 On 11/4/2012 at 7:58 PM, bryan_m said: here ya go clay...... the bottom ones are dowels with clips attached to them for small parts...... the center is the chopsticks with double sided tape, and the uppr ones are dowels with larger clamps for big parts.......ive been using them forever, and they work great. and theyre really cheap to make! hope it helps cheers bryan Bryan , I made some like that but used kabob skewers with the pointy ends to stick into a chunk of foam.
hotrodplastic Posted November 29, 2012 Posted November 29, 2012 On 11/4/2012 at 7:58 PM, bryan_m said: here ya go clay...... the bottom ones are dowels with clips attached to them for small parts...... the center is the chopsticks with double sided tape, and the uppr ones are dowels with larger clamps for big parts.......ive been using them forever, and they work great. and theyre really cheap to make! hope it helps cheers bryan Good job on the truck keep up the good work Clay.........Hey also about the clips: I cut pieces of coat hanger then bend hooks on the ends to hang them..... Cheers Chris
PowerPlant Posted November 29, 2012 Posted November 29, 2012 Nice project... I'll be watching this as I'm thinking about getting this kit. I like how everything on it is hinged and the amount of different building styles it offers. On 11/5/2012 at 1:03 AM, Del Austin said: If your going for accuracy I'd say ditch the kit hinges and use a set of PE hinges as they closely resemble the stock model A hood hinges. Sorry if it's OT, but do you have a link for the hood hinges you have in mind? I realize MCG offers door hinges for hotrods, but I'd also like to fully hinge the hood on my '32 Ford... Any help?
Del Austin Posted November 30, 2012 Posted November 30, 2012 On 11/29/2012 at 12:28 PM, PowerPlant said: Nice project... I'll be watching this as I'm thinking about getting this kit. I like how everything on it is hinged and the amount of different building styles it offers. Sorry if it's OT, but do you have a link for the hood hinges you have in mind? I realize MCG offers door hinges for hotrods, but I'd also like to fully hinge the hood on my '32 Ford... Any help? I've only used the ones from MCG. Keep in mind that the Model T's and A's use an exposed hinge like the PE sets. The 32 Fords use a stainless strip that is much cleaner than the earlier piano hinges of the T's and A's.
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