Yad' Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 Hello all................ Here's a post I made on another board - it was suggested that I might post it here too, so here you go.................... I built a little MG-TC some while ago now and an interest has been shown in the reproduction of the wire wheels. rather than a long and involved tutorial what I've done is to put together a more concise "Pictorial". The pic's are in a seqence and should make a readable instruction of sorts - at least it should point you in a direction at which to aim? Here you go then...................... 9 pic's.............. Any questions or clarification - please sing out. I'd be happy to answer if I possibly can. all the best for now.................... Andi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 Andi, bore us with the details!! How'd you attach the wires to the hub, or are they sandwiched in with the backside of the wheel? Are you looping the wires around the pegs? It's hard to see from the pics. Just the same, I'm gonna copy and save this thread as this'll come in handy for other type wheels, Borranis, Daytons, offset and no offset. Those wires look FANTASTIC on your MG! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yad' Posted August 26, 2007 Author Share Posted August 26, 2007 Hi Bill............... I'm being a bit lazy, but here's the answer I provided for pretty much the same question I was asked elsewhere. And yes, I've played with the technique and it does lend itself to quite a few applications. This particular lacing is prototypical to the MG so the pegs are spaced as-per, simply wrap around the peg - through the lacing - out and around the peg - back in to automatically line up with the next point of entry for the spacing. But the idea doesn't take much altering to fit any number of differing formats. Having said that nowadays I tend to build on a purely recreational level and so long as it carries the look - I can live with it. Here you go with the quote............. shout up if you have any further queries? You won't find anything too hi-tech amongst my techniques so don't worry. I seem to have this "thing" for working out the simplist means of achieving the maximum effect!! The wires themselves are made from a monofilimant as you suspect, in this instance its a haberdashery product called "invisble thread", I found it in the sewing box - she who must be obeyed was pretty good about it!!? Regards the fixing of the "wires" if you check out pic #4, you'll see that a groove has been turned into it on the face of the brake drum and before the axle housing. The rear [flat] inner wires sit in this groove and are not fixed so the Drum is able to "float". The outer rim is then cyano'd over the top of the wires, and then the "floating drum can be centred within it - fixing with a drop of cyano' when you're happy. The outer [dished] wires are threaded under the rim and over the top of the axle housing [the two pieces of ally' tube] as it cranks around the axle tubes the tension holds it on top ,the next peice trapping it. I had a couple of almighty failures initially by using too much tension but then slacked it back a touch and cyano'd the assembly periodically to stop it all unravelling. Once you're happy with it all I flooded the face of the rear rim with liquid cement till the face softened, this was then placed against its front counterpart and clamped causing the wires to sink into the rear face negating any gaps [in fact filling a few] at the mating point. Again once happy I cyan'd around the outside of the rim where the surplus wire protruded, then clipped them flush once dry. The whole procedure is much easier than it sounds and results in a very strong assembly. Hope this helps rather than hinders? ..............Andi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mal.au Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 Well Done Andi those wheels look awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S10man Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 Those wheels are spectacular Andi, and your tutorial is one of the best I've ever seen. As you know, I'm doing a TC myself right now, so there is some incentive for me to try your method. I'll keep you posted ( or ask for more help! LOL) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelbuilder1313 Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 Wow Ill give it a try soon!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted September 1, 2007 Share Posted September 1, 2007 Wow! I would love to see this in more detail, I love wire wheels and when they are done in scale you just can't beat the look, very smart of you man.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 Wow. Just wow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sixx Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 HOLY COW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AWESOME tutorial!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 Easiest, by far, wire wheel method I've ever seen. You have me hooked, entirely. Just too cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my80malibu Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 I would like to build one of those rigging tools, could you give the dimensions, where did you get those pins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 I'd like to see the back side of the wheel in the jig and complete. Super job and execution. Looking for 'invisible thread' right now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 I would like to build one of those rigging tools, could you give the dimensions, where did you get those pins? Seeing as how the last time he posted anything on this forum was in April of 2008, more than 4 1/2 years ago, I doubt you're going to get an answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Here are four different approaches to making classic wire wheels, as explained by the late Martin Swire. These are for 1/16 models, but the same techniques apply to any scale. http://www.freewebs.com/martsmodels/howtos.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Here are four different approaches to making classic wire wheels, as explained by the late Martin Swire. These are for 1/16 models, but the same techniques apply to any scale. http://www.freewebs....dels/howtos.htm Thanks for bringing up-to-date info for a desirable project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 (edited) I thought this would be a very nice thing to print in 3D. A helpful tool. Unfortunately, pricing is based upon the cost per cm³ and it has to be strong and functional. So it ended up being a little, OK twice as much as I thought. Basically $40 for the price they are charging for WSF. Obviously that will go down, but, today $40 ($1.50 design fee to me and so I can track if someone orders one) I went thought the exercise, so, I am leaving it up on Shapeways. http://www.shapeways.com/model/865746/wheel_tool_48_spoke.html?key=3c2a1b6b3feb4a587dfe24225486094d I sprued the inner and outer pieces together and they will have to be x-acto'ed apart. The inner and outer face have exactly the same radius as I am assuming that a tight fit will be needed, so, some sanding for an exact fit my also be needed. I have no idea what the nail diameter for the center of the inner piece needs to be as I am sure that varies with the model wheel being used, so, I left a 2mm diameter hole Edited January 12, 2013 by NormL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 A little explanation or diagram of how it works or tutorial would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 I'm sorry, I thought that was well covered by the explanation in the first and third posts. It is his idea, I just made a printable jig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 I didn't catch that-my bad. I apologize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 (edited) No prob. I was just so impressed by what he did. He didn't leave any dimensions, so, I kind of guessed at the holder he was using. I made the overall 6" with a 3" main hole and 1mm thick and of course 48 pins 2mm in diameter spaced at exactly 7.5°. 1.5mm pins may have been strong enough, but, I wasn't comfortable at that size. If you always tie off the same side of the pin, the pin width does not matter anyway. Edited January 12, 2013 by NormL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lownslow Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 im saving up to get that i have some classics that could use some better spoke wheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 I was asked to create a 72 spoke version. It is here http://www.shapeways.com/model/866350/wheel_tool_72_spoke.html?key=d634302ea84addf6f57a7b54cd2a7449 Do I need to add a center plug on spues for several sizes of tires posts? i.e. a 1" stick in several diameters with a 2 mm inserts for the center hole. If so what diameters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lownslow Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 its a homemade version but ill be getting the 3d printed version Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blunc Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 I would suggest using 28 to 36gage wire (commonly used in electronics or small motor armature windings) for the wire wheels instead of thread or fishing line. you can also experiment with larger gages of wire to see what works best for your wheel projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lownslow Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 I would suggest using 28 to 36gage wire (commonly used in electronics or small motor armature windings) for the wire wheels instead of thread or fishing line. you can also experiment with larger gages of wire to see what works best for your wheel projects. This was a mockup i plan on using the invisible sewing thread as my wheels might have more than 36 spokes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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