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Posted

Or at the very least paint it orange. I don't think I've ever seen one of these (1:1 or model) painted orange, though there might be a compelling reason or two for that...

Already did an orange one about six years ago:

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Posted

Since I still had the measurements for the wheel handy, I decided to make the rotors and hubs. These are made to fit on the front, they’re directional too… Yes, the holes in the hubs are threaded to accept studs/bolts.

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These are the rear brake rotors and hubs… Same basic process as the fronts, but not the same hub proportions.

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Posted

I decided to experiment with another approach to the wheels and took a run at making etch cut brass wheels. This time I chose a BBS style. Here is the spider I designed and cut from .030 brass.

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Then I bent it using sockets for dies. Also shown is the outer rim I cut for it.

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Then I soldered the two parts together…

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Here it is in the aluminum rim blank I made earlier with the extra tire.

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I still need to add to the back side of the hub area so the lugs have something to seat into and to make the offset correct as well as clean up the edges.

Just like the aluminum five spoke wheel, this will be a master, not one of a set.

Posted

I added some more pieces, nine to be exact, but they are just various sizes of brass tubing stock I soldered in to make the hub with the lug seats. This now bolts to the hubs I made earlier.

Still cleaning up the edges of the spokes and anything else that needs it.

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Posted

Umm...My name isn't Jeff... But I have been called worse four letter names. ;) (By people on this forum even.)

Technically it is not Photo Etch because the image is not transfered via film (negative/positive) images. Nor is it outputed onto resist sheet using a laser printer. I use vinyl to make the resist. So it is acid cut or acid etched, but not PE. It is a process I am still fine tuning and also finding its limitations.

Thanks for the compliments guys!

Posted
Technically it is not Photo Etch because the image is not transfered via film (negative/positive) images. Nor is it outputed onto resist sheet using a laser printer. I use vinyl to make the resist. So it is acid cut or acid etched, but not PE. It is a process I am still fine tuning and also finding its limitations. Thanks for the compliments guys!
Very good point and I know I hadn't thought about that! Awesome work either way.
Posted

sorry about that Mark, I don't know where that came from, lol , really enjoying watching your build come together, it is exceptional work! I think I understand how you did it, this stuff is fairly new to me,thanks for answering

Posted

No worries Bill, and thanks all.

I decided to make the rear fenders next, but I also decided not to simply stop there and instead I thought I’d add a full rear body section including a trunk. I know, this is not what a Caterham or Lotus Seven would typically have, but since many of the real vehicles are built as kit cars in home garages, I figured why not have some fun? (Not all Seven based cars are Lotus or Caterham…)

Originally I was planning to make the fenders as separate left and right pieces to bolt onto the sides and the center section as its own piece too. But the more I worked on it I decided it will be a rear clip. You can see the mounting flanges on the inside (and the scribed lines on the rear panel) where it was originally going to be three main pieces.

It’s still a little rough on the inside, I may leave some of that as it is the way some 1:1 fiberglass work looks on the inside. It will still use the same mounting points I put on the front sections of the fenders, but the rear will mount to the frame (that I still need to make…).

As far as the styling, I’m going for a 60’s or early 70’s sports car look.

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It is all styrene except for a little resin and a lot of CA, no “real” filler or putty at this point.

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