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Posted

I'd like to try foiling my next project with regular old kitchen foil, as an alternative to BMF. I know a lot of you guys get great results with this technique, but I have a question. What's the best adhesive to use? I saw some "Alene's Tacky Glue" at Hobby Lobby. Would that work as a good foil adhesive? I'm concerned with long-term adhesion and easy cleanup of any adhesive that gets on painted surfaces.

Posted

Harry, this technique is not new. Before BMF this was what the pro modeler did! Aluminum foil is thicker and easier lay down smooth... plus you can polish it to a very shiny finish.

What we used to use was:

P1011068-vi.jpg

This bottle I used to use back in 1982 and it is still good! The glue is like a thin rubber cement where you paint a thin layer on the metal and on the body where you want the metal to stick. The when the glue is dry (clear), press the metal to the model and trim with a sharp new #11 blade.

Now, this glue was sold with Micro metal foil sold by MCS products. However, I am pretty sure the glue is also used for gold leaf application. (Which is what I use it for too) Contact your local art supply store.... and sign shop. Either should have it or be able to point you in the right direction.

:rolleyes:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Actually.... it is worth it! Bare metal foil contains very thin material that works perfect, and has just the right amount of tacky glue. Using this glue is great if you can find thin metal foil to use. Aluminum sheet foil like you would wrap around your roast in the oven is just not thin enough in my personal opinion.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

The trick is to find the cheapest aluminum foil you can get--supermarket discount brand, that kinda thing.

Posted

My wife got some cheap stuff at the dollar store called Ultra Foil, last week I was complaining about how it tears too easily to use in the kitchen. It's pretty thin, it would probably work good for this, and 25 square feet should last a lifetime. It's already stashed in my model room. shhh don't tell. ;)

A side note on the adhesive. I have used it to hold down the edges of decals that want to curl, and to attach a dash emblem that I made from two tiny decals and paper on my 73 Roadrunner. It's strength really surprised me. I have used it on several other things as well, it's nice to have on my bench.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

At Michael's craft stores they sell foil adhesive for gold leafing. I have used it and it works great. It's the bottle with the mona lisa on it. I can't remember how much it cost (about $8 or so) but if you use one of their 40% off coupons you get an even better deal.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Actually.... it is worth it! Bare metal foil contains very thin material that works perfect, and has just the right amount of tacky glue. Using this glue is great if you can find thin metal foil to use. Aluminum sheet foil like you would wrap around your roast in the oven is just not thin enough in my personal opinion.

The problem I have with BMF is that it cost a lot of money 11-12 dollars per sheet back home, and some sheets are just so badly cracked that even a straight piece of a inch will break up in several pieces.

And then it is a costly sheet.

If BMF could just find a way to improve their product, I would be very thrilled.

Posted

My alternative to BMF is aluminum furnace tape. You get a whole roll for a few bucks and would last most modelers many years. I've had mine for probably five or more years and the adhesive is still good. It's a bit on the thick side but I like that, it's easier to work with and durable but I can still work it into the crevices and around curves.

David

Posted
My alternative to BMF is aluminum furnace tape. You get a whole roll for a few bucks and would last most modelers many years. I've had mine for probably five or more years and the adhesive is still good. It's a bit on the thick side but I like that, it's easier to work with and durable but I can still work it into the crevices and around curves.

David

i use this mainly on window trim or long trim but this stuff is good but it dulls 11s like crazy

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
They still sell the same foil adhesive at hobby shops that carry the Microscale line. Good stuff!

It sure is! It's also useful for attaching windows and other lightweight items. It looks and "handles" a lot like white glue but it's actually contact cement, minus the gooey strings. It only takes a thin line or small dot to get good adhesion, no clamps required!

It not only works well, it's a pleasure to use.

Diddy

Posted
It sure is! It's also useful for attaching windows and other lightweight items. It looks and "handles" a lot like white glue but it's actually contact cement, minus the gooey strings. It only takes a thin line or small dot to get good adhesion, no clamps required!

It not only works well, it's a pleasure to use.

Diddy

DITTO!!!! good to see you here Diddy... look around lots less politics here...and a lot of familar names and work

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Can you guys post some pics of models that you have used this on? I have used BMF and its just getting too expensive for cracked sheets. Some pics of your completed cars and what you use would help me, thanks guys.

Posted

I used the furnace repair tape for the window trim on this;

penskevette-10.JPG

David

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I think that for as much bare metal foil that most use, I don't see why not use it. I tired recently the tin foil method and I will admit that the final results look just as good as bare metal foil. I actually found it was easier to get smooth and becuase it is a little thicker than bare metal foil, it hides more slight imperfections that bare metal foil does not. Some drawbacks I think. I have not found an efficient way of glueing it to the plastic. On my test I used elmers spray adhesive and found it worked fine but much extra tedious work was required to mask the areas around the trim so avoid adhesive going where I don't want it. Another drawback is this tin foil makes blades dull after only a minute. I know that most use some sort of metal foil glue but I have not tried this. My biggest worry is that while easier to use, the process of burnishing and rubbing the tin foil, might cause the glue to ooze evrwhere underneath including under the part of tinfoil that will be cut away. But practice might solve that. Until only recently, I built late 60's and 70's model kits so only chrome trim was around front and back winshields and small trim above side windows and sometimes around wheel openings. But now I have a 57 chevy and 56 chevy kits, which have more elaborate tim and in more places, like the side panels and on tops of fenders. So one technique I am testing is painting the chrome trim on with alclad chrome. I have tested with 67 coronet kit and so far,the results were good, especially on the triangle vented windows, which I could never do with bare metal foil, as it would buckle in the corners and look terrible. I think with carefull masking, this method could be more consitent results to bare metal foil. But this is not cheaper method, so better option is still to use bare metal foil or tinfoil for areas such as windshields trim and other simple shaped areas. W hen I resume airbrushing in summer I will do one more test and take digital pictures and post.

Posted

Hey David,

How do you keep the furnace repair tape from lifting the paint? I have some furnace tape and I've been reluctant to use it for window trim due to its high adhesive qualities. I would say it seems the adhesive is even stronger that duct tape.

Although I must say; I've used it to cover an entire 34 Ford grill and it worked great.

Alex

Posted

Further to the foil from chocolate bars thing - I can recommend Kit Kats (I think Hersheys sell em in the US) Occasional limited edition(!) Kit Kats with Gold foil. Really thin foil. Spray the back side with 3M Spraymount and apply!. Only used it a little on touch ups (moulding marks on bumpers etc , but gonna be using it all over my Strickler Impala soonish. I'll post up the results good or bad!

Bob

Posted
How do you keep the furnace repair tape from lifting the paint?

Sorry, I didn't notice this question before. I've never had a problem with is lifting paint, but if it worries you just brush some CA accelerator, (Zap Kicker or the like) under the tape that's to be removed, (make sure you keep the edge lifted up, only burnish where you want the tape to stay.) and it will desolve the adhesive. I found out CA accelerator is a great adhesive remover the hard way when my BMF just fell off my model when I was gluing something near it.

David

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