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Posted

I decided to finish up the main cage before I go over making intersecting joints. We'll go over that next time. I used my solder to mock up the main roof bar. Again, heating it over a candle allowed me to bend it up nice. Business cards are very versatile tools as they can be stacked to any height. I left the assembly like this to glue over night.

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The next bars to install were the dash bar and forward door opening bars. They are glued directly to the chassis pan.

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Next we add the two "A" pillar bars.

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I'll let this dry over night and next time we'll add the door bars and the supports that run into the trunk. Thanks for looking!

Posted

I was back at this last night. I got a lot more cage work done. Let's keep building. Cross braces in two pieces are a challenge. First step is to make the pointed end of the bar. Then place the full length tube in place and mark it:

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Cut the first section to length and install it:

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Repeat for the second section. Now it's just a matter of combining the techniques to continue building the cage

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Thanks for looking! Next time I'll start on the engine.

Posted

very nice. going to be a killer. any idea on motor, color? keep on going,

Thanks everyone for the encouragement! This will be powered by the Ford motor in the Jukebox ford. I have a beautiful set of aluminum valve covers for this engine that I'll be using. Right now I am planning on painting the car maroon, no graphics, just stock emblems and trim.

Posted

Spent some time on this today. This is my first time hinging doors. I tried several different styles of hinges but these were the only ones that worked.

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I also started on the engine. I've had these aluminum valve covers for years and finally got to use them on a build.

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Thanks for looking!!!

Posted

Spent some time on this today. This is my first time hinging doors. I tried several different styles of hinges but these were the only ones that worked.

I also started on the engine. I've had these aluminum valve covers for years and finally got to use them on a build.

Thanks for looking!!!

no, thanks for building. it's coming out great.

Posted

Also put some time in on this one this weekend. Got the pulleys installed on the block, installed the distributor and fabbed up a set of wheelie bars:

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Thanks for looking!!!!

Posted

Great job (again) Ron, never thought about using solder as a (re useable at that) template for the cage, brilliant idea. I (should have) one of these ( falcons) I built a few years back on here if you want to have a look at it.

Posted

Great job (again) Ron, never thought about using solder as a (re useable at that) template for the cage, brilliant idea. I (should have) one of these ( falcons) I built a few years back on here if you want to have a look at it.

Thanks Brett. I would love to see your Falcon!

Posted

Did a little on this today. I have never opened doors before. I had this contour gage for doing customs and thought it would work great to figure out the inner contour of the doors.

First I laid the gage in the door:

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Then I traced the gage onto some .040 styrene.

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I made four and glued them in place. I used some small plastic angle to keep them straight.

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Next time I'll build some door panels.

Thanks for looking.

Posted

Beyond cool!

I'd never be man enough to cut up into a vintage AMT kit to that degree, much less do everything else you've done with it. Makes me want to get back at my '66 Falcon pro street project.

Posted

ron...looking good..explain how you cut out the doors without breaking the frame around the window opening..this has always been scary to me.. thanks oldr-n-drt

Posted

ron...looking good..explain how you cut out the doors without breaking the frame around the window opening..this has always been scary to me.. thanks oldr-n-drt

Thanks! The doors were cut out by scribing with the back of a #11 X-acto blade. This is an original kit from 1966 so the plastic is really brittle. I went really slow and used gentle pressure. Let the blade do the work. once I was all the way through I used the sharp side of a new knife blade on the inside of the car to free the doors. Just go slow and you'll get it. And the window frames are really fragile. I'll be using the windows to add the strength back.

Posted

if that's a ford bigblock the dis is in front of motor not in back like older hemis and chevy rats

Todd, thanks for the info. At this point it is too late to change it. The motor is mounted in the frame. At least I know for next time.

Got the computers in and started on the wiring.....

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Just noticed the sink mark on the floor I forgot to fix. Guess I'll throw a helmet on the floor there.....

Thanks for looking!!!

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