mnwildpunk Posted September 22, 2013 Posted September 22, 2013 I was wondering what are some of the tricks ya'll use to replicate mirror glass. On earlier models i have just painted the mirror surface with silver enamel. I was kicking around the idea of trying to BMF. Let me know how you tackle your mirrors Thanks Dave
Deathgoblin Posted September 23, 2013 Posted September 23, 2013 BMF works really well as long as the surface you're putting it on is smooth. If you can find PE pieces that are the right size/shape, those polish up to a mirror finish.
Modelbuilder Mark Posted September 23, 2013 Posted September 23, 2013 you can do a combo of the above. If you find the right size photo etch piece, or plastic cut to size, then cover with BMF before install.
Yahshu Posted September 23, 2013 Posted September 23, 2013 Polish out aluminium from drink cans & use a punch like this http://www.micromark.com/micro-punch-set,8603.html to get the size you want, that's how I do mirrors.
Modelbuilder Mark Posted September 24, 2013 Posted September 24, 2013 Polish out aluminium from drink cans & use a punch like this http://www.micromark.com/micro-punch-set,8603.html to get the size you want, that's how I do mirrors. Always wanted one of those, but the cost for for such a simple looking device just kept it out of reach in my mind. The only downside to doing mirrors with that method, is that you would of course have to be making a round mirror. Any other style and you are faced with the same question as to how to make them the most realistic looking.
935k3 Posted September 24, 2013 Posted September 24, 2013 Always wanted one of those, but the cost for for such a simple looking device just kept it out of reach in my mind. The only downside to doing mirrors with that method, is that you would of course have to be making a round mirror. Any other style and you are faced with the same question as to how to make them the most realistic looking. You can do the sme thing with a hollow punch set from Harbor Freight for about 6 bucks.
935k3 Posted September 24, 2013 Posted September 24, 2013 (edited) Some RC hobby shops have an adhesive backed Mylar chrome sheets that can be used for mirrors. You might try and find some chrome tape.Baremetal Foil works better if you back it with a piece of .010" sheet plastic. Edited September 24, 2013 by 935k3
madhorseman Posted September 24, 2013 Posted September 24, 2013 I have made a template with paper, then traced the shape onto the back of BMF, cut it out, don't remove the backing but glue it into place with Testors clear parts glue. Roy Trejo
Modelbuilder Mark Posted September 24, 2013 Posted September 24, 2013 Some RC hobby shops have an adhesive backed Mylar chrome sheets that can be used for mirrors. You might try and find some chrome tape.Baremetal Foil works better if you back it with a piece of .010" sheet plastic. I have a sheet of this as well, but I have no idea where I got it as I have had this sheet for years.
Russell C Posted September 24, 2013 Posted September 24, 2013 (edited) Cheapo junk mail adhesive-backed chrome mylar sticker material from a particular auto club is what I use. Various stickers are smooth all the way across instead of being partially textured, with enough material for sideview & interior mirrors, plus random reflectors for taillights & front turnsignals. Edited September 24, 2013 by Russell C
Art Anderson Posted September 24, 2013 Posted September 24, 2013 Some RC hobby shops have an adhesive backed Mylar chrome sheets that can be used for mirrors. You might try and find some chrome tape.Baremetal Foil works better if you back it with a piece of .010" sheet plastic. It's called MONOKOTE, which is adhesive backed film used for trimming RC model aircraft. Monokote trim comes in sheets, approximately 3' long, 4" wide, with a peel off backing. Just cut to shape, peel away the backing, and stick it down. Like any "Press-Apply" Mylar trim, using a bit of water on the surface of the piece being coated with it allows you to lift the Mylar piece off, re-position it, and press in place again. Once the water evaporates from underneath the Mylar (it does this from around the edges), it's stuck down for the count. Art
zenrat Posted September 28, 2013 Posted September 28, 2013 I have made a template with paper, then traced the shape onto the back of BMF, cut it out, don't remove the backing but glue it into place with Testors clear parts glue. Roy Trejo This really is the simplest solution.
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