Start-up stuff...

[Doug Bowen]

So as a guy returning to the hobby, what would you recommend as "gotta have's" as far as basic supplies. I already have a Model B Wren airbrush, zona saws, wire gauge drill bits, exacto blades, etc... but what are recommendations regarding new glues and finishes compared to the '60's. (Wow is THAT a loaded question!) I gotta get me some new bare metal foil...the stuff I have is antique! At 65, I know I need some magnification equipment too!!

Your input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, D

[Erik Smith]

Alclad II paints for metal finishes.

[Doug Bowen]

Erik...I just got my first issue of Model Cars and saw that mentioned. Is it paint? Anything special in its application?

[1930fordpickup]

Doug do a search for Alclad II paints and glue in the tips section for the search .

[JunkPile]

OptiVisor for magnification.

[Deathgoblin]

Bare Metal Foil. Handy stuff.

[slusher]

Organizers fir brushes and paints. For me is a big help...

[Doug Bowen]

Thanks guys. I just got done looking at the you-tube site for Alclad II. Looks like marvelous stuff. THAT certainly is new and exciting since the 60's ! I have used Bare-metal before, but now I'm going to check out the Organizers paint. I found an accurate pink color for my neighbor's 56 Ford build from Scalefinishes. I have also heard the name Tamiya bantered about quite a bit. Others I should check out? D

[PatRedmond]

Tamiya Liquid Cement.

[Erik Smith]

Erik...I just got my first issue of Model Cars and saw that mentioned. Is it paint? Anything special in its application?

Alclad is addicting. Great product with great results - and easy.

CA glues have come a long way since the 60s too. I use them a lot.

Tamiya primers - now available at Hobby Lobby - are excellent products.

Micro Mesh sanding products for polishing paint jobs.

[Shardik]

Don't restrict yourself to "hobby'" supply sources, though.

Flexi-file and Squadron sanding sticks are wonderfull (and I do still use them occasionaly) but take a look in beauty salon supply outlets (c'mon; your man enough). I get most of my sanding sticks from the nail care section.

Fingernail polish can also be used to paint bodies. It's available in some wild colors and finish effects.

Finaly, the beading section at your favorite craft store will yield numerous treasures: Solid beading wire in various gages for fuel and brake lines as well as sprark plug wires. Small charms and specialty beads for more gizmos, gadgets and do-dads than you can imagine.

You mentioned magnification. The Optivisor, mentioned above, works quite well but I personally find it cumbersome and ucomfortable to wear. A more practical and economical solution is high powered reading glasses, available in any drug store. They are more comfortable, easier to doff and donn, and ,since the lenses are closer to your eyes, they cause less paralax problems.

O.K., maybe this isn't all "getting started" type stuff, but it sounds like you've already got a fair amount of experience behind you (we wont dicuss how far behind ).

Edited September 29, 2013 by Shardik

[Doug Bowen]

Thanks for all the input, guys. D

[charlie8575]

Scale Finishes and Model Car World are both indispensable resources for paint, especially if you do a lot of fleets or rep-stock. MCW is lacquer, Scale Finishes is enamel, and can formulate newer colors for you. Both are great products.

Tamiya's cements are very good, but I still keep a tube of Testors around for parts that work better with the slow-drying gel that is Testors in the tube. Their acrylic paints are very good; I haven't used their spray paints, but they're supposed to be outstanding. I also like Testors clear parts cement- it works well.

Unlike a lot of people, I still like using Testors and Testors Model Master enamels. I find them to be my main-stays for many things I do. Testors Acryl line of paint is also very nice stuff. If you can get it conveniently, I also like the line of Humbrol paints from England. I also use Testors lacquers and think they're fantastic.

For primers, I strongly recommend Plasti-Kote, as their solvents are less aggressive than the Dupli-Color and Rust-Oleum primers and it works well. For surfaces that might be a bit delicate, either Testors enamel primer or their lacquer primer are a good choice.

I like Excel blades a little better than X-Acto, and recommend those.

X-Acto and/or Excel bar clamps are handy, as are the ratcheting mini-clamps that Sears and many other hardware stores sell. Don't forget rubber bands, spring-loaded C-clamps and the big binder clamps you can get at stationers.

Beyond that, I like Xuron cutters, and recommend a good cutting mat. I find useful tools here and there, so keep your eye open for them.

Foil, files, Testors and other makes of wet-dry sanding films and a bunch of other stuff like that are indispensible items, too.

Welcome back. And very nice Studebaker you have there.

Charlie Larkin

[Doug Bowen]

Charlie...thanks for you input on the basics. I especially appreciate the primer and paint info. It has been so long I was afraid their had been "material" changes on the kit manufacturing end. I certainly have gleaned a lot of good information my first day on this forum. Seems like a great group. Thank you for the comment on my nice Studebaker...unfortunately the '49 was totaled in 2000 when a young lady was putting on her makeup and didn't see the red light. I now look both ways at green lights! Now I drive a '64...one of the last ones made. I would include a picture with this, but I haven't figured out how you attach a pic to a reply. Again thank you all for your input. D

[crazyjim]

I'm still using Testors glue in the red/orange tube. I switched from Plast-i-cote prime over to Duplicolor because the Plast-i-cote was too hard to find and then very expensive when I did find it. Advance Auto runs sales on Duplicolor every so often and I stock up.

How about Ken's Kustom Fuzzi-Fur for carpeting, Doug? Some people use embossing powder, but I prefer Ken's and carry all his colors.

[FordRodnKustom]

To add what everyone else said, A good, well lit, comfortable place to work.One that you don't have to pack away after every session.Throw in a radio and small TV if possible.

[Joker]

Dollar store swabs and toothpicks for BMF ...applying glue / paint.

Nail emory boards for bodywork.

Clothes pins/rubber bands for clamps.

Paper clips for pining parts.

Plastic shoe boxes etc etc etc

[Eshaver]

Doug , from the looks of it, you already have the basics. Now here, I know I'm gonna get "Jumped on " by a few of the ALL KNOWING, ALL DOING here .

1. determine what kinds of modeling you want to do .

2. Determine what scale you PREFER to work in

3. ARE YOU A SCRATCH BUILDER ?

4. if the answer to question 3. is yes , you need a few more things . HOWEVER, if you're a Kit builder as a good number here are , I'd say you're well on you're way.

[JunkPile]

Dremel and a few bits

[Miatatom]

Doug, I'm 69 so I speak from experience. You need light, more light and then even more light.

[PappyD340]

Don't forget the Plastruct plastic weld, comes in handy for scratchbuilding!

[peekay]

Lots of good advice here.

I would add that my own modelling improved once I discovered 2- part epoxy glue. I use the clear sort and I don't know how I ever assembled a kit without it. I still use liquid styrene glue as well but wherever that won't work I get out the epoxy.

Edited September 30, 2013 by peekay

[DaveM]

_{Another handy deal is the alligator clips in the smaller sizes available at Radio Shack. (The type that may have been used back in the '70s for roach clips) I stick them onto the end of small cheap dowels, and cut them to about 8"-12" in length. Then I drill a bunch of holes in a piece of wood. Instant holders for painting parts. Keeps my fingers from getting painted with the part. Make a few dozen and you can just leave the parts in them to dry.}

_{I use flocking and embossing powders from the local hobby store to texture surfaces and make carpeting. I also use fine automotive sandpaper. (600 to 2000 grits usually) I wrap it around pencil points to sand inside radii, and I shave sprues into different shapes to make sanding blocks for small spaces. Dice are square, so they are great for holding parts in a vertical position with a small dab of duct tape. Rubber cement is still good for tacking parts together while fitting. Ziplock bags and a small set of storage drawers or Plano flat tackle box inserts will keep all of your like parts and projects together. There is a lot of stuff out there that can be used for model building, and much of it is really cheap or even free.}

_{Welcome back to the hobby and have fun with it.}