Fiberglass bodies

[rel14]

I used wax, cut the shape i needed for a champ car hood, used 3/4 oz, fiberglass, and 15 min epoxy.

[pappabear1973]

My thing is I do not want San 1923 t c can, I want a 1915 t c .cab. different measurement. Lol. I always have to be difficult.Thanks I think I am understanding the process. Will have to re read the thread tomorrow. Do you do the resin, then cloth then resin then cloth again? Thanks

[pappabear1973]

You speak of a special clay. What is this special clay? Thank you.

[Ace-Garageguy]

You speak of a special clay. What is this special clay? Thank you.

There's a link to everything you need to know about the clay at the bottom of post 15 in this thread.. That site also has DVDs available that explain the whole clay-model process.

Here is a link to an extensive video library about various methods of making masters, molds and parts. There's far more to it, and more choices to make, than can possibly be explained here on the MCM forum. http://www.freemansupply.com/video.htm

Good Luck.

Edited December 18, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy

[pappabear1973]

Looks like you gave me a ton of home work. Note to put on the learning cap. Thank you very much.

[pappabear1973]

Who is your supplier for the epoxy mat and gel coat. Thank you

[kruleworld]

Jaymar productions did several australian models in 1/25 fibreglass resin. they are horrendous to work on. not recommended for small scale projects.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Jaymar productions did several australian models in 1/25 fibreglass resin. they are horrendous to work on. not recommended for small scale projects.

Hmmmm. See post 4. I make a lot of 1/25 parts from fiberglass and mine aren't "horrendous" to work on at all. I wonder why??

[zenrat]

I think Jaymar bodies are just resin - no cloth.

[Charlie-02]

For doing smaller bodies as 1/25, you'd need to use what is called "surface tissue" cloth. I've used it in a few of my older castings and they too weren't horrendous. Even now in certain cases I still prefer the glass over polyurethane resin.

Yes 95% of the Jarmar ones were only garbage bin standard and most of the ones I've had of his did have the cloth in them, just never enough as a strong sparrow fart would blow a hole in them, but alot can be achieved in the smaller scales with fibreglass when you get "your way of doing it" worked out. The basics are all the same, but everyone has different techniques as most times what works for one doesn't always work for another..

[Len Woodruff]

For doing smaller bodies as 1/25, you'd need to use what is called "surface tissue" cloth. I've used it in a few of my older castings and they too weren't horrendous. Even now in certain cases I still prefer the glass over polyurethane resin.

Yes 95% of the Jarmar ones were only garbage bin standard and most of the ones I've had of his did have the cloth in them, just never enough as a strong sparrow fart would blow a hole in them, but alot can be achieved in the smaller scales with fibreglass when you get "your way of doing it" worked out. The basics are all the same, but everyone has different techniques as most times what works for one doesn't always work for another..

What US sources are available for the "surface tissue" cloth?

[Ace-Garageguy]

For doing smaller bodies as 1/25, you'd need to use what is called "surface tissue" cloth. I've used it in a few of my older castings and they too weren't horrendous. Even now in certain cases I still prefer the glass over polyurethane resin.

"Surface tissue", or surfacing-veil-mat if I'm thinking of the same thing as you are, is made specifically to add to a laminate under a gelcoat to help avoid print-through of the heavier weave cloth, which can become visible on the surface of a part over time. Veil is a random fiber arrangement and has very little strength. See all about it here, plus a video that explains fiberglass fabric: http://www.tapplastics.com/product/fiberglass/fiberglass_fabrics/surfacing_veil_mat/90

The material I use for scale laminates, which are MUCH stronger than styrene kit pieces but are only .030" thick, is very fine fiberglass CLOTH, in a variety of weights. It's made for industrial and aircraft applications. One source is here: http://www.cstsales.com/e_glass_cloth.html

There are several pages. Pay attention to the minimum quantities and thicknesses, and short-piece pricing. You will most likely want 1.6oz and under.

Edited December 23, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy

[Len Woodruff]

"Surface tissue", or surfacing-veil-mat if I'm thinking of the same thing as you are, is made specifically to add to a laminate under a gelcoat to help avoid print-through of the heavier weave cloth, which can become visible on the surface of a part over time. Veil is a random fiber arrangement and has very little strength. See all about it here, plus a video that explains fiberglass fabric: http://www.tapplastics.com/product/fiberglass/fiberglass_fabrics/surfacing_veil_mat/90

The material I use for scale laminates, which are MUCH stronger than styrene kit pieces but are only .030" thick, is very fine fiberglass CLOTH, in a variety of weights. It's made for industrial and aircraft applications. One source is here: http://www.cstsales.com/e_glass_cloth.html

There are several pages. Pay attention to the minimum quantities and thicknesses, and short-piece pricing. You will most likely want 1.6oz and under.

Thanks it looks like some of the RC Hobby Shops in my area carry the mat.