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Posted

hey guys, what can a dremel drill be used on when building model cars? I am trying to justify wether i should buy one or not, Ive done fine without one for some time now.

Posted

The only Dremel tame enough for model building is the cordless Stylus. I use one and it's helpful. The bigger ones will tear things up'

Dale

BTW: It's $70

Posted

I have a Stylus also and my corded one has become neglected.

I find I use mr dremel more than I ever thought I would when first buying. It's a great rough grinder for many things. It works trimming a rough cut down to the drawn edge to finish with sandpaper. I do alot of custom body work and it's indispensible.

Posted

Invaluable tool, I have a stylus which is my favorite but I also have a corded one which I use with the drill press dremel makes . I also have one of the cheap cordless ones too which is adequate to start with if money is an issue . there are so many uses for it you basically just have to get one and figure out what you can use it for . I have a very thin saw blade I use for bodywork and the sanding drums are good for wheel wells .

Posted

sounds good , I think i will purchase a dremel :) I think it will help sand or cut parts when lowering vehicle ride heights.

Posted

Another option you might consider if you have an air compressor is a mini die grinder. I have a cordless Dremel that was my mainworkhorse, along with a Stylus for fine work, as well as an old corded Dremel. The cordless model had the speed control go bad, only works on high now. I had considered replacing it with a Milwaukee, but spotted the mini die grinder on the Snap-On truck while getting tools for work. Went ahead and got it, I like it much better that the Dremel. It has the small size to be easy to get into tight areas (it's actually smaller than the Stylus), but still has the power that a full size Dremel is capable of. It also works with any 1/8" accessories. I also find that the speed control is far finer, plus it can be dialed down even more by dropping the line pressure with a regulator. I tend to run it at around 15 psi. I will admit, the Snap-On mini is a bit pricey, but Harbor Freight does have a similar one for a reasonable price.

Posted

I agree with Dale and Jim, the stylus is definitely the way to go. I have two other dremel tools, even the one on a cable and don't use either one.I've had it for more than two years and it's still going strong. I can do more with it and faster than other dremel I've had. :wub:

Posted

"Another option you might consider if you have an air compressor is a mini die grinder"

Love my mini die grinder! I'm a tool a d die maker by trade and mine travels in my lunch box back and forth to work with me every day! Made an adaptor for mine to use 1/16 dia. Dental drills and burrs I got used from my dentist. It sounds gross but they were sterilize before he gave them to me. They are practically brand new and would have been thrown out since they can't use them on another patient.

Posted

I have both the corded and cordless tools....both have there place but the cordless is much more controllable for me anyway...I have a few accessories for them too...light pack for the front is handy.

Posted

I must have gotten a Stylus with a bad battery. Charged and worked okay - once! Attempts to re-charge it, the tool lasted less than a minute. On a side note, when my corded Dremel died after 20 years, I did some research. and bought a Proxxon rotary tool. Only about $10-15 more, the quality, adjustability, quiet, and precision are unreal! The tool has no wobble when drilling. I also "asked for" the drill press, XY table, and vise for a Christmas present. I use it frequently. Just my 2 cents. :D

David

Posted (edited)

I find a dremel, older cordless model currently, one day I will replace it with a stylus, to be really really handy in that final fitting phase where often no matter how many times I have dry fitted parts, there always seems to be some interference when doing it for the last time. it allows you to get into tiny corners with a mini grinding bit and relieve just a very little bit at a time in a very controlled manner. also I use it for removing or relieving big areas by thinning the material first before making the final cut. I really use it a lot despite initially thinking I would not. and my batteries have lasted about 5 years the first time, then their replacements are on about their third year with no problems. david you should get hold of dremel and tell them the problem; when I had a problem with a replacement battery they sold me, they just sent me another one and told me to keep or discard the bad one. turned out to be my charger wasn't plugged in properly :o but by the time I figured that out I already had the replacement.

edit to add: this thread caused me to go out and see what I could score a Stylus for. Seems they might not be currently manufactured, or maybe distribution is spotty or targeted, like they do seem to be in stock at Lowes for 70$ or so. anyone know of any deals?

jb

Edited by jbwelda
Posted

I use a corded Dremel too, mostly for rough grinding to make bigger room for tires etc. But also for buffing paint/chrome/aluminum with some cloth/pads attached to it. There are sooo many things you can buy for your Dremel, its more likely your imagination sets the boundaries rather than the Dremel.

Posted

edit to add: this thread caused me to go out and see what I could score a Stylus for. Seems they might not be currently manufactured, or maybe distribution is spotty or targeted, like they do seem to be in stock at Lowes for 70$ or so. anyone know of any deals?

Keep an eye on the clearance racks, both at the big hardware chains (Lowe's, Menard's) and Hobby Lobby. Usually around this time of year, they will clear out any older stock they have, even if it is an item that's still available. I scored 2 of the Dremel Stylus from Menard's a few years back for $35 apiece from their clearance rack. Kept one, traded the other to W-M-D. Funny part was that a few weeks later, they had them back in stock, same part number and everything, but at full price!

Posted

William,

I got mine at Sears in the tool dept.$ 67.00 In the Pacific Northwest we have a large dept.store Called Fred Meyers. They also have them there. $65.00

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Just bought my first Dremel tonight. I got the Dremel 7300-N/8, cordless 4.8V two-speed rotary tool. It came with 8 accessories. Two screw mandrels #401 and #402. Sanding discs #407, #408, and two #445s. A wire brush, #428. A polishing wheel #414. And a structured tooth tungsten carbide cutter, #84922.

Now the question is, what accessories above will I use for plastic model car building? What other accessories do I need to pick up? And how and why would I use any of these accessories in build plastic model cars?

I've been thinking about picking up a Dremel from more than 40 years now. I've gotten by without one. But, just about everybody I know in the hobby has one and seems to use it all of the time. I can see some uses right away. A nice thin, flat little cutting blade for example could come in handy cutting out the extra plastic support pieces one sometimes finds in large hood openings, window areas, etc. You know, the plastic that your instructions tell to remove before assembly. I can see grinding open wheel wells to allow for big tires to be used. Which is something I have not done a lot of in past. So, I'm looking for more ideas on how one uses this tool, and why?

Scott

Posted

Just bought my first Dremel tonight. I got the Dremel 7300-N/8, cordless 4.8V two-speed rotary tool. It came with 8 accessories. Two screw mandrels #401 and #402. Sanding discs #407, #408, and two #445s. A wire brush, #428. A polishing wheel #414. And a structured tooth tungsten carbide cutter, #84922.

Now the question is, what accessories above will I use for plastic model car building? What other accessories do I need to pick up? And how and why would I use any of these accessories in build plastic model cars?

I've been thinking about picking up a Dremel from more than 40 years now. I've gotten by without one. But, just about everybody I know in the hobby has one and seems to use it all of the time. I can see some uses right away. A nice thin, flat little cutting blade for example could come in handy cutting out the extra plastic support pieces one sometimes finds in large hood openings, window areas, etc. You know, the plastic that your instructions tell to remove before assembly. I can see grinding open wheel wells to allow for big tires to be used. Which is something I have not done a lot of in past. So, I'm looking for more ideas on how one uses this tool, and why?

Scott

Scott, as you use your new Dremel you will discover how to use it and what accessories you will need . The drum sander gets the most use by far, opening wheel wells, thinning out the edges , deburring , etc. there is also a smaller drum sander that is useful as well . the next most used is a small thin metal saw blade I use it for cutting plastic and alum, brass copper tubing and cutting window posts for top chops and also (after a lot of practice) cuts on the body for sectioning . I like using some of the round shaped grinders for removing trim and badges . the polishing wheel for any white metal parts you may have .
Posted (edited)

Scott, as you use your new Dremel you will discover how to use it and what accessories you will need . The drum sander gets the most use by far, opening wheel wells, thinning out the edges , deburring , etc. there is also a smaller drum sander that is useful as well . the next most used is a small thin metal saw blade I use it for cutting plastic and alum, brass copper tubing and cutting window posts for top chops and also (after a lot of practice) cuts on the body for sectioning . I like using some of the round shaped grinders for removing trim and badges . the polishing wheel for any white metal parts you may have .

What he said.

I have an old corded variable-speed dinosaur, and it's great for removing a lot of material fast...which is helpful if you do heavy mods.

The very thin composition cutoff wheels get a lot of use here too. grinding-wheel.jpg

But you DO need to kinda work up to using the old corded units on models. They're powerful for such small tools, turn fast even on low speeds, and will do a lot of damage very fast if not precisely controlled.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
Posted

somewhere i read "... when your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail..."

i don't think of motortools as a go-to tool, but sometimes it's the only one that'll get a job done. never had much use for the sanding drums, but burr grinders can be helpful getting into spots denied by other tools.

this type is handy:burrs_zpsp0dlgwsj.png

remember, you're only cutting plastic. these tools work on low torque/ high rpm. rate of feed controls the difference between cutting and melting.


practice on something other than the grand trophy winner!

Posted (edited)

somewhere i read "... when your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail..."

i don't think of motortools as a go-to tool, but sometimes it's the only one that'll get a job done. never had much use for the sanding drums, but burr grinders can be helpful getting into spots denied by other tools.

this type is handy:burrs_zpsp0dlgwsj.png

remember, you're only cutting plastic. these tools work on low torque/ high rpm. rate of feed controls the difference between cutting and melting.

practice on something other than the grand trophy winner!

I use these bits a lot but not in my Dremel. I mount them in a pin vise or just turn them in my fingers. I'll even use the bits to scrape away material. I find these techniques gives much more control.

Edited by afx

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