Jantrix Posted February 1, 2014 Posted February 1, 2014 I usually don't have this issue. I will usually just find an alternative chassis, but in this case, I'm gonna just wing it with the kit parts. So what are my options? 1. Bare Metal foil? 2. Hand painting? 3. Mask off and spray? What else have you styrene mad scientists come up with?
Joker Posted February 1, 2014 Posted February 1, 2014 Silly Puddy masking and Tamiya flat aluminum (XF-16). Muffer paint..Tamiya flat red (XF-7) or Tamiya metallic grey (XF-56). '72 GMC pickup '76 Chev Impala '59 Ford
ERIK88 Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 Silly Puddy masking and Tamiya flat aluminum (XF-16). Muffer paint..Tamiya flat red (XF-7) or Tamiya metallic grey (XF-56). '72 GMC pickup '76 Chev Impala '59 Ford wo wow , I will definitely be using silly putty to mask chassis, thanks for the great hint !
jrherald420 Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 I brush them by hand, silly putty and spray paint will look a lot better in the end.
Jantrix Posted February 2, 2014 Author Posted February 2, 2014 Thanks for the tips guys. I'll try to find some silly putty when I head to Walmart for paints.
Joker Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 Glad I could help out with the " promo style " chassis pan. I've got a '63 Ford Galaxie on my bench at the moment, and swapped out the chassis with one from a '64 Merc Marader. The '64 chassis got the "A" arms extended and new tail pipe exhaust tubes made from a spare rollbar . The rollbar had the nice curves I was looking for. "63 on top . . . "64 on the bottom
mnwildpunk Posted February 3, 2014 Posted February 3, 2014 Wow I never even thought of silly puddy that is a great idea for a lot of different things
oldcars Posted February 7, 2014 Posted February 7, 2014 I get my silly putty at the dollar store. Guess how much(had to throw in some bad humor). Richard
my80malibu Posted February 7, 2014 Posted February 7, 2014 Scribe along side of the pipes, and mufflers. This makes a path for the paint to stay in then hand brush.
tubbs Posted February 7, 2014 Posted February 7, 2014 I get my silly putty at the dollar store. Guess how much(had to throw in some bad humor). Richard .59 cents....... touché. I have been tempted many times by the majority of people who use silly puddy for mask, but I have a question. isn't the silly puddy too thick where you will get a line where you are masking? or can you flatten it out that much like masking tape and not get bleed thru? hope this question is clear?
Baugher Garage Posted February 7, 2014 Posted February 7, 2014 Silly putty (forehead palm) - never even occurred to me! I love this forum!
Jantrix Posted February 8, 2014 Author Posted February 8, 2014 Scribe along side of the pipes, and mufflers. This makes a path for the paint to stay in then hand brush. Now that makes a heck of a lot of sense.
John Goschke Posted February 8, 2014 Posted February 8, 2014 I like to hand paint on a chassis that's been sprayed with flat black primer. Don't paint the raised all the way down to the underbody panel because (1) the paint will flow along the interface between the raised detail and the underbody, spoiling the illusion that it's a separate part and (2) the part of the raised detail left black creates a shadow line enhancing the illusion that it's a separate part. SMP '59 Corvette. Testors Silver for mufflers, Testors Silver and flatblack mixed for steel color on pipes. Liquitex Glossies acrylic aqua on shocks. Liquitex Glossies acrylic black on suspension and driveshaft. One-shot lettering enamel on the goofy engine and trans. Before final assembly all the visible areas inside the body and splash pans were brush painted with flat black. AMT '59 Thunderbird. Same as above except for Testors gold on the engine and trans. Liquitex Glossies white was later used on oil filter.
thatz4u Posted February 8, 2014 Posted February 8, 2014 I have used a silver sharpie & an old gift card & work CAREFULLY..
sjordan2 Posted February 8, 2014 Posted February 8, 2014 It couldn't hurt to scribe away a bit of material where the pipes, mufflers, etc meet the floor pan. This gives it the illusion of a little extra dimension and "lift" away from the pan. Same goes for molded-on wires, hoses, etc elsewhere.
Jantrix Posted February 8, 2014 Author Posted February 8, 2014 Thanks guys. I haven't tried this since I was a kid. Normally I just find a better chassis. I just grabbed a brush and did like John described. Not too bad if I do say so.
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