Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Rambunctious - Funny Car - FINISHED PICS!

geetee66

By geetee66
in WIP: Drag Racing Models

 Share

Recommended Posts

geetee66 MCM Ohana

geetee66

Posted
Posted (edited)

This is the Polar Lights kit of Gene Snow's Rambunctious funny car.

snow__gene_9_zpsa9938b01.jpg

No real problems, so far. Apart from the fittings and braided hose getting lost in the post.

I'm going to try and plumb as much as I can on the engine. I'll add a throttle linkage, too.

This is what I've done so far....

Rambunctious021_zps140645e9.jpg

Fuel lines and other details will be added (once they finally arrive..)

Here's the cockpit, which is more or less done. I added a chute release, although I had to use some imagination for it's position as there is very little info on Google images about its' exact placement.

Rambunctious008_zps45dbd9ba.jpg

I used candy red over metallic gold for the body, chassis and roll cage

Rambunctious012_zps722979cc.jpg

Rambunctious018_zpsfe7922ad.jpg

I added a battery tray, even though I didn't really know if it had one.

Rambunctious004_zps1c5b75d0.jpg

As the engine has a starter motor, I figured it would need some juice. I have since discovered that it might've not had a battery, but used an auxiliary power supply, connected to terminals on the chassis.

To be perfectly honest, this will never be entered into a competition, so it's more of an exercise in testing my abilities and trying new things. I'll add PE bolt heads and anything else that I can think of.

I'll post more pics as soon as I make more progress

Thanks for looking

Edited by geetee66
geetee66 MCM Ohana

geetee66

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys

I'm pleased with the paint. It's from rattle cans. A quick search on eBay found the candy paint. I also got some in green, for my 51 Anglia van gasser waiting to be built. £6.00 for a 400ml can. Sweet!

I haven't rubbed or polished the red. That's just how it came out of the can. I'll top it with clear after applying the decals, then buff it up with polish.

Next, I've got to make a fuel valve for the blower scoop and fit some PE linkage to it.

More pics asap

brett MCM Ohana

brett

Posted
Posted

WOW, that paint is gorgeous, whole car looks great so far. I've got one to do as well but I'm terrified of those old decals as the last couple of polar lights ones were shot

Dave42 MCM Ohana

Dave42

Posted
Posted

Holy smokes, this is nice. Of course the paint, also like the interior detailing. Looking forward to seeing this finished.

DonW MCM Ohana

DonW

Posted
Posted

If it was my 1:1 I'd put a battery on it! Don't want to wait for the starter truck every time...

It's beautiful.

geetee66 MCM Ohana

geetee66

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Today I got the decals on...

001_zpsa1da236b.jpg

Brett, you were right about the decals. Even though they're made by Slixx, they're 14 years old and had a few cracks. The long scripts broke up and needed a little dab of microsol, then re-aligning with a wet brush. I think I managed to save them..

004_zps3bb85128.jpg

more pics soon

MitchP MCM Avid Poster

MitchP

Posted
Posted

Beautiful job guy!

I have the same questions on the paint for the day I build my Chi-Town Hustler. What brand of canned paint did you use? When you shot red over gold, exactly how is that done?

Do you shoot about 3 mist coats until the gold is filled in, let it dry a specified time and then do the same for the red color? How do you ensure the gold will have it's proper effect showing underneath the red topcoat? Is it just time and practice?

I really like the colors used on the engine and suspension (Alclad?) although the valve covers look like box stock chrome. Thanks for any help or answers!

geetee66 MCM Ohana

geetee66

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Beautiful job guy!

I have the same questions on the paint for the day I build my Chi-Town Hustler. What brand of canned paint did you use? When you shot red over gold, exactly how is that done?

Do you shoot about 3 mist coats until the gold is filled in, let it dry a specified time and then do the same for the red color? How do you ensure the gold will have it's proper effect showing underneath the red topcoat? Is it just time and practice?

I really like the colors used on the engine and suspension (Alclad?) although the valve covers look like box stock chrome. Thanks for any help or answers!

Thanks everyone,

the build has been on hold for the past week, due to work/exams, but I'm going to put some of the PE bolt heads on the various chassis/suspension parts.

I had a go at using Protech lines and fittings on the oil pump and I like the results. They seem quite easy to use. I've got a problem with space between the inlet manifold and blower. The rubber fuel lines are interfering with the fitting of the blower. I'll solve that problem over the next few days.

Mitch, I used auto touch-up paint. The clear red was bought on eBay. It's called Canbrush and seems to be made in Malaysia..

I don't use any fancy equipment, I just stand in my garden, hold it at arm's length and spray it, even on windy days (If I'm feeling impatient)!

I started by making sure the primer coat had no crud in the surface, then I warmed the gold rattle can paint in a jug of hot water. Give it a good shake for 2 minutes.

I always begin spraying in difficult areas, like wheel arches, front and rear roll pans, engine bay, then move onto the larger panels. I only give it a light coat. Don't try to cover the primer completely at this stage.

Let it sit for 10 mins.

Warm the paint again, shake the can for 2 minutes

A slightly heavier coat with the can about 10-12" away from the car. Move the spray fairly quickly and don't linger in any area, to prevent runs.

Make sure all the underside edges are covered too, but inverting the car.

Let it sit for another 10 minutes

Warm the paint, shake it for a couple of minutes, then hit the body with closer spray, moving the jet of the spray at a slower speed. If I see orange peel, I go back over the area quickly at close range. Keep the spray at 90 degrees to the surface.

So the sides don't get runs I tend to do them with the car tilted over, and spray downward to them.

This way I can pile on some thickness without gravity messing it up.

Let the side you just sprayed 'gel' a bit before turning the body over to do the other side and it will help stop the paint running.

When I apply clear over metallics, I always hit it with a dryish coat for the first few passes. This helps bed down the metallic flakes and stops them floating off in the clear and pooling in recesses.

The go wet. Your clear MUST be warm.

Give it up to 5 coats, more if you need to bury decals.

I hope this helps

  • 3 weeks later...
geetee66 MCM Ohana

geetee66

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Here's the latest...

I found some tyre decals in one of my other FC kits. Good job, as I ordered a sheet of 1/16 decals from Slixx in error.

I dulled the white down a bit with pastels and a bit of spit and added a tyre valve

2014-03-09_1830361_zps39a76533.jpg

The chute pack will have cords connecting it to the body, but here's a shot of the release pin I made

2014-03-09_1834001_zpsd1f6899a.jpg

I also made a throttle-return spring and finished off all the hoses etc.

2014-03-10_1915421_zpsb7fb35f2.jpg

I scratchbuilt the battery, rack and clamp. I think it turned out ok. I used some PE bolt heads to spiff-up the clamp

2014-03-10_1915131_zpsb05d3e25.jpg

Not a brilliant photo, but it's from my phone..

Here's the screen with boltheads

2014-03-12_1706401_zps5c3ff4a0.jpg

It's nearly finished. I'll post more soon

Thanks for looking

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...