Which Paint Brand Is Most User Friendly

[Bruce Poage]

With all of the different brands of model paints available. Which rattle can is most user friendly? Many speak well of Tamiya. I saw a demonstration of the new HOK. Model Master has lacquers and there ore others. Before I start my next project, '58 Chevy DelRay sedan delivelry I need to choose a paint and get it ordered. It is hard to find anything locally. What would you suggest?

[bobss396]

Have you tried Duplicolor? This should be available locally in auto parts stores, all you have to do is use their primer. If you are going to order paint, go with the real deal HOK Black Gold paint or the Tamiya sprays work well too.

Bob

[Guest Davkin]

I've tried just about every laquer under the sun and I think the brand that gets you the best results with the least effort is the Model Master laquer system. Just make sure you follow the directions closely.

David

[Dr. Cranky]

Yeah, I would say Model Master too, but the more I use Tamiya the more I like it. These days, though, I am an airbrush fiend . . .

And for that I use mostly Floquil and diluted Vallejo acrylics . . . they give great results . . .

Though I also use Tamiya paints . . .

For the shiny jobs I have to say there's nothing like HOK, but you have to wear a respirator or you are going to destroy your nervous system.

[Brendan]

For ease of use for rattle cans, the best bet would be Tamiya since it is a one coat system. But if you're trying to match a color up with a factory color, the Model Masters Lacquers would be better. But you have to shoot a clear over the paint since it is a two-part system. Nowadays you really can't go wrong with any of the paints because they are all pretty easy to use. It just depends on which company makes the color you want. Just my 2 cents.

[jbwelda]

i think i have the opposite impression from khart: i think its tamiya hands down. the nozzles are great, the paint flows well and is reasonably thin for a buzzcan, i havent had any problems whatsoever with running or fisheyes or any of that sort of thing, though i do live in a warm weather area so maybe thats a factor. the only criticism of tamiya paint i can offer is that the clear is too thin to polish easily (have to be very careful on raised surfaces or youll cut through into the color or worse, the primer) and also there seems to be a bit of a distribution problem of late because my LHS seems to not be able to keep all colors in stock.

that said though i tend to stick with what i know so maybe ive not given the MM laquer a fair shake. i do know i got tired of the heavy coats that spurt forth from MM enamels and the long drying time without a dehydrator. however i still use their flats and clears...

[locoengr]

Have you tried Duplicolor? This should be available locally in auto parts stores, all you have to do is use their primer. If you are going to order paint, go with the real deal HOK Black Gold paint or the Tamiya sprays work well too.

Bob

I'm glad I read this. I was told that Krylon primer and Duplicolor worked together. No? Yes?

T.I.A.

Bruce

[bobss396]

I'm glad I read this. I was told that Krylon primer and Duplicolor worked together. No? Yes?

T.I.A.

Bruce

I've used Krylon primer before but prefer to keep it in the same brand family. I look at it like mixing drinks, starting out with wine and going to scotch may have unexpected results!

IMHO, Duplicolor primer lays down flatter and is more tolerant of a heavy hand. I've had more problems with Krylon primer over the years and have stopped using it, but maybe that's me.

Bob

[Guest Davkin]

Tamiya is good paint too and their nozzles are the best however like someone mentioned they can be finnicky, at least certain colors. It seems to me the MM system has more solids and therefore covers better with fewer coats than some of the Tamiya colors, (red in particular.) MM is a two part system, but it flat out gets better results with less effort because of that. MM's clearcoat goes on quite smooth and polishes out very easily assuming you follow the instructions. That other magazine had a very good supplement early this year or maybe last year on painting and one of the articles was on using the MM system, it was very informative. I don't claim to have painted a dozen models with both brands of paint, my experience is somewhat limited but the difference was profound. I did a model earlier this year painted solely with MM, (with Plastikote primer however.) all coats in a single evening. I let it sit just one week then went over it with 3M rubbing compound then 3M finish glaze and the shine rivaled my urethane clearcoated models. The only real drawback to the MM system is the lack of color selection.

David

[crispy]

I'll add my two cents.

I love Tamiya sprays. I have had nothing but excellent results. I will agree that red is a little more difficult to work with though.

If you guys are talking about MM from years past, no, but if it is the new MM color coat system, I haven't been able to find any in my neck of the woods so I cannot give any recommendation.

Finally I love to airbrush my paint. Even MM 1/2 oz. bottles look fantastic out of the airbrush.

Primers, you can't go wrong with Tamiya, they work well with almost all brands. I still use Plasti-Kote brand primer if I am airbrushing automotive style paints.

Chris

[Guest Davkin]

I like aribrushing too, but if the color I want is available in the MM laquer system I go with that, it's just so easy to get very good results with it there's no reason to break out the airbrush.

David

[Zoom Zoom]

Only to add to the confusion, I prefer Tamiya sprays over Testors 2 part lacquers. I've been able to get better results with Tamiya, but I know people who find it frustrating. I've gotten so used to Tamiya that it's easy for me. You have to spray it over the correct primer, often white is the best choice for lighter colors, as Tamiya isn't as pigment-rich as other paints. Their silver/black and some metallics cover really well, but other colors take a lot of building up to get the color. And Tamiya paint sometimes is prone to getting a few fisheyes, almost a reaction to it's own propellant or even a dust fleck and it's more prevalent with some colors...but usually they fill in when you lay on more color. I do stupid things w/Tamiya, always on the brink of disaster, and 99% of the time it comes out great. Their clear is amazing. I think w/Tamiya you have to have the right conditions, and be able to know just how wet a pass to make just shy of it running (or having the propellant "bubble" the paint because it didn't evaporate before it hit the surface) for the best results. I've been doing that for decades, so it seems really easy for me to use/abuse the paint this way. If you are a "hesitant" painter, Tamiya may frustrate you more than necessary. If you paint like you're afraid of it, afraid of making it "too" wet, hold the part too far away while shooting it, you won't get the same results as one who shoots it with confidence.

Testors lacquers seem to be easier for those w/less painting experience. I've had them with horrible nozzles that splattered the paint, you have to find a good nozzle or it will spray terribly. They have very dense pigments, so you aren't as married to a white primer for the color to "pop". However I've never been able to get that one last really wet coat to lay down nearly as good as Tamiya. Always a bit of orange peel, the paint seems to lay down the same whether it's sprayed w/confidence and a wet coat or with a lighter touch. And the clear...it lays down nice, but when I get a good wet coat it's liable to blush, and the blushing doesn't evaporate out. Never had that happen with Tamiya clear. Some Testors metallics are far too "metalflake" in appearance. Tamiya's metallics and pearls are much finer than Testors. And I use all Tamiya colors as 2-part; it dries thin enough that you can buff out the solid color down to a light layer too easily. I'd rather do my sanding/buffing of clear to avoid buffing through the color.

Many people use Tamiya clear instead of Testors clear. That's what I'd do if I was married to using only spray cans. But nowadays I decant most of the paints because I've found that I get better results, and save a lot of paint, by airbrushing the color coats in thinner layers than a spray can could ever accomplish. Airbrushing Testors clear is better as it doesn't blush. Airbrushing Tamiya color slowly, followed by one wet coat from the can, results in really great gloss...same w/the clear. I spray light coats of clear right over the last coat of color, build up in thin layers, and then make one last wet coat from the spray can. The whole paint job takes about an hour or so start to finish. I'm using a fraction of the paint vs. spraying directly from the can. I can paint an entire model with what feels like a nearly empty can. Same with clear. This past year I shot two models from the same can of silver; the can felt like it was about 1/3 full. There was still paint left over after decanting and shooting both models in silver. In addition I added some of my decanted silver to the first coats of clear...half and half, then a bit more clear, before shooting all clear. I'm amazed at the mileage I get now from a can of Tamiya. There are a lot of people out there that say you use a whole can, or more, of Tamiya to shoot a car body. While that is conceivable, I get great results using a fraction of that, and that would include using just the rattle cans. If I use just a rattle can I can shoot on average 1.5 to 2 complete cars with a single can.

If you're looking at mostly solid colors, you'll probably like the Testors the best, just use Tamiya clear over it for best results. If you're looking at metallics, it really depends on the particular color. I was very disappointed w/the metallic Testors I shot on a model, it was suitable for a bass boat And it wasn't any better when I airbrushed it. I had to resort to mixing/shooting some Testors enamels in the same shade to cover up the metallic mess. I find it a bit odd and almost funny that friends with far less painting experience than I have love the Testors lacquers, while I've had very mixed results with them. Solids are great...when you don't have a defective nozzle. Clear is nice...when it doesn't blush. It all boils down to this: a particular paint seems to work best with a particular style of painting, and my style is best served with Tamiya sprays. Results may vary

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

I have heard it said the MM lacquers do not require primer.

Can this be true?

Thanks

John

[mr moto]

I'm glad I read this. I was told that Krylon primer and Duplicolor worked together. No? Yes?

T.I.A.

Bruce

Duplicolor works fine over Krylon primer. I've done it many times over the years and the Krylon will protect the plastic BUT if you stick to same brand primers and paints the adhesion is better. This will only matter if you're doing some masking. You might get some lift-off at the tape edge when removing the tape if you've mixed brands. So it works but it's safer to stick with one brand.

[Zoom Zoom]

I have heard it said the MM lacquers do not require primer.

Can this be true?

Thanks

John

Neither Tamiya nor Testors require primer; if the planets all align properly and you can get all the mold lines sanded/polished out of the parts, and the color you are shooting is compatible w/the plastic color, you don't need primer. A pristine body molded in white will accept any of the hobby lacquers w/o the need for primer. I save primer for when I need a quick cover of bodywork, or to get everything one uniform color before shooting color, or if I'm shooting an automotive paint. I rarely prime small parts. I use a lot less primer than most builders, so many who think that every single part must be primed. If it works for them, great. My system works just fine for my level of building/painting.

[Harry P.]

For a factory look, I love Duplicolor paint with Tamiya clear. The results are just about perfect straight from the cans.

[jbwelda]

bob downie hit the nail on the head regarding tamiya: you have to shoot it with confidence, especially out of the can. its amazing the number of times ive thought oh ###### i just hit it too heavy on my wet coat and went away convinced i would need to strip and repaint (not an easy proposition with tamiya ive found). much to my surprise when i returned an hour later the paint looked great and didnt sag as i feared.

imo pretty much anything with the name tamiya on it is A1 quality and quite possibly the best youre going to find...but also probably the most expensive youre gonna find. funny how that equation seems to pop up much of the time.

[rollinoldskoo]

I've used Krylon primer before but prefer to keep it in the same brand family. I look at it like mixing drinks, starting out with wine and going to scotch may have unexpected results!

IMHO, Duplicolor primer lays down flatter and is more tolerant of a heavy hand. I've had more problems with Krylon primer over the years and have stopped using it, but maybe that's me.

Bob

yea.... i've used krylon primer for a while but now i stick to duplicolor primer for the same reasons...

For a factory look, I love Duplicolor paint with Tamiya clear. The results are just about perfect straight from the cans.

duplicolor also has their Metalcast (candy) and Metalspecks (flake) lines that i've used with no problems... the only times i've ever had trouble with duplicolor was fogging on humid or colder days....