Two-Tone Paintjob..

[10thumbs]

Hi guys,

Decades have past since I built my last model car. Lindbergs "Color Me Gone" is ready to get started.

What's the best way to handle 2 tone paint jobs?

I have a new Air Brush and have been practicing. I thought about shooting the whole body with white, then just brush on the dark blue, like in the old days. Can I AirBrush the dark blue? I could use fine tape and block of the side of the body, and spray the dark blue, but I'm a bit apprehensive of overspraying. I have experience painting the plastic hulls of ships using some fine tape to keep the lines neat and clean.

How is it best done nowadays? What would you recommend me to do?

Michael

[Foxer]

Do start with the white. Tape off the parting line with good tape, I use Tamiya or Frog Tape Delicate Surface. Use cheap masking tape and newspaper to cover the rest of the body and paint the second color. Do let the first color dry a few days before the 2nd color tape and paint. Be sure the two colors are compatible .. you can test on a plastic spoon if you're unsure.

[cobraman]

People do this in different ways but I normally paint the light color first. Then I mask. I then shoot a coat of clear. Then I spray the darker color, unmask and spray more clear. The first coat of clear will help the second color to not bleed under the masking. This should give you a nice clean edge.

[Art Anderson]

Do start with the white. Tape off the parting line with good tape, I use Tamiya or Frog Tape Delicate Surface. Use cheap masking tape and newspaper to cover the rest of the body and paint the second color. Do let the first color dry a few days before the 2nd color tape and paint. Be sure the two colors are compatible .. you can test on a plastic spoon if you're unsure.

Suggest you avoid using newspaper though--as overspray can soak the paper just enough to release the printing ink which if the newspaper touches anywhere on the white paint, can transfer right to that white painted surface.

A safer paper to use would be the same paper you use in your printer, clean with no printing on either side of it.

Art

[10thumbs]

Thanks guys!

@Foxer....compatible. Do you mean like enamel / enamel?

@cobraman....after 1st coat, you mask. Then 1st clear coat. Where do you put the 1st clear coat, on the masked part? Could you clarify?

@Art, the clean paper makes good sense to me.

I haven't had quite the success with Acrylics / Air Brush as I do with enamel, so for the first model I'm going with enamel. I can imagine that I'll have to wait several days before I can mask the white, 1st color. I'll have lots of wiring to do in the meantime.

Michael

[charlie8575]

Michael,

Mike has essentially the best procedure. To clarify Ray's statement, the clear should be applied after the second color. Do try to polish out the paint some with 1500/2400/3600/finer if you can get it sandpaper, using the wet-sanding method. That will make it as level as possible. Allow the paint to dry for at least a week or two before doing this, though.

Art is also correct- don't use newspaper, or you're going to have one funky paintjob. I know people who use kraft-paper bags with reasonable success. There's also special masking paper made, but that can get expensive. Try the printer paper-I'd be curious to see how it works.

Charlie Larkin

[Foxer]

Thanks guys!

@Foxer....compatible. Do you mean like enamel / enamel?

Yes, but I'm not an expert on picking compatible paint (don't ask). I do try to stick with same type as you say but I have heard of brand compatibility issues too. Just trying to stick up a caution flag.

And, I never had problems with newspaper but Art makes complete sense ... I'll be into the piles of printer paper from now on!

[cobraman]

I shoot clear after the first color is applied and body is masked for the second color. Then shoot the second color over that. What this does is prevent the second color bleeding through as the clear seals over the tape. You will have an edge but it will be gone as you apply your finished coats of clear. Other people do it other ways but this never fails to work for me.

[mnwildpunk]

All great tips but I personally prefer a frisket or liquid masking depending on how intricate the two tone will get ifis just masking off ahard top then I would also just use a paper masking but if it has multiple angles and curves frisket or liquid is what i'd use

Edited March 5, 2014 by mnwildpunk

[berr13]

Cobraman--are you using enamel, and if so, how long do you have to wait for clear to dry?

[10thumbs]

I shoot clear after the first color is applied and body is masked for the second color. Then shoot the second color over that. What this does is prevent the second color bleeding through as the clear seals over the tape. You will have an edge but it will be gone as you apply your finished coats of clear. Other people do it other ways but this never fails to work for me.

Hmmm. Sorry to have to bug you again. Like this?;

1. First color.

2. Mask it.

3. 1st Clear coat.

4. Second color.

I'm still lost. Do you mean you clear coat the already painted area that will receive the second coat of color?

The color scheme is basically white sides, and dark blue roof. So, the complete car is sprayed white, then masked for the blue. Then clear coat....the roof? Or, how can I clear coat the sides, when they're masked?

Do you mean the roof is clear coated before applying the blue?

This may not even be of importance, I just don't understand the method. Should your 1st sentence read like this;

"I shoot clear after the first color is applied, (then the) and body is masked for the second color." ??

Michael

[cobraman]

I use lacquer. I spray clear after first color and masking is done and before second color. Then spray second color and then more clear after the masking is removed. The wait time is too long to try this with anything other than lacquer. I do wet sand after second color and before final coats of clear. I hope this makes sense to you. The other tips should work well for you too. This is just what I do. Like the old saying goes " There's more than one way to skin a cat ". Good luck which ever method you decide to try. Lets see your results.

[astroracer]

Okay, Spray your main body color. Let it dry very well whether you are using laquer or enamel. Like Ray, I recommend laquer, much easier to work with.

Mask the body for the second color. NOW spray a light coat of clear around the taped edges. You are not flooding the entire panel with clear, just the taped edges. This helps seal the taped edges to prevent bleeding of the second color under the tape. IF there is any bleeding, it will be clear and will not be visible after the tape is pulled. Once the second color is down, pull the tape, knock down any rough edges and THEN bury the whole car in clear.

Using laquer I did this entire job in one day, start to finish.

Mark

Edited March 5, 2014 by astroracer

[cobraman]

Exactly !

[10thumbs]

Gotcha!

Thanks guys for your patience.

What brand of lacquer could be recommended? Please note, I'm in Germany. My town has a population of 1/4 million, and is the state capitol. 4 Hobby Shops, only one has plastic model cars, only Revell Euro models! No Alclad, but BMF. I was even told recently, hold on now...."no one builds model cars anymore".

I've found internet Shops that have lots of paint selection, but mostly enamel (Humbrol) which I have. Probably 3 days to dry, but I'm familiar with the stuff.

So, tell me about lacquer, and brand names.

Michael

Edited March 5, 2014 by 10thumbs

[Pavel A.]

Michael, try to work with Mr.hobby"C" (C is lacquer, H is aqueous - for cars not good). Especially try Mr.color (also knowns as Gunze) with name GX. For example black is hard to touch for a half hour (very good against the dust). GX are made especially for car modelling. It is highly gloss. As a coat I recommend you Super Clear III (also GX).

For example if I must make a white lines on red base. My way:

1.red colour

2.make a mask

3.Spray on it white colour lines - important!!! YOU MUST USE SEMIGLOSS OR HALFGLOSS COLOR, this can cover this red in very thin layer without steps.

4.spray Superclear lll for very high gloss for both colors

tip: for very nice deep of colour yuo can apply first matt color than superclear III.....color will be very deep.

Attention -do not use as the first layer email or syntetic color and than superclear lll over it. All lacquer colors are very very hungry. Paul.

Edited March 5, 2014 by Pavel A.

[10thumbs]

Hi Pavel,

I've found out I can get Gunze paints online, as well as other Euro paints. I'm still looking. Thanks for the tips.

Michael

[Pavel A.]

I can recommend you e-shop www.car-model-kit.cz (also in english) over there I buy all colour so as bmf and alclad products. Pavel.