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Posted

Topic name says it all. What are the advantages of using acrylic paint or enamel. I am currently using enamel and I see a lot of you guys using acrylic and I've been wondering if I should switch. which one is better for your airbrush, which is better for brushing (I already know about the thinner) what goes on model easier, etc etc

Also, if I do switch, what are some paints that I should really get? (like the necessities..)

Posted

What is your reason for asking about switching? Are you unhappy with your enamels? After using them for decades, they've become my go-to paints, especially for detailing. As nice as Tamiya acrylics are, you can''t "work" them like you would an enamel. OTOH, most/all acrylics clean up with water, where enamels require thinner/mineral spirits etc.

If you airbrush acrylics, it's important to clean your 'brush ASAP after use. Dried acrylic paint can be harder to remove from an a/b needle.

I happen to keep both types of paint on hand because one may offer a particular shade that the other doesn't.

Posted

What is your reason for asking about switching? Are you unhappy with your enamels?

I just noticed basically everyone uses acrylic and was wondered how/if they were different from enamels.

Posted

I'm using all types of colors. But the best for me are colours which are on lacquer base. This colours are from Gunze known as Mr.Color. Gunze makes acrylics and lacquer paints. Lacquers are also under marking as Gunze "C". Especially for best results in car models category are Gunze GX. This colours are dry after 15 minutes (also black gloss)! And they are very very gloss. Like a thinner I'm using only original Mr.color thinner (blue label) or also Mr.color thinner (yellow label - but be carefull, this thinner consists retarder and it has tendence to make "live" under coat of colour!) Because I used in 99% blue label.

As a clear coat is awesome Super Clear III also from Mr.color. Thinner is the same.

If you need make clearcoat over decals make 3-4 thin layers than full layer. Do not thin with yellow label because your decals can be damaged!

Better do not use this Gunze C or Gx over synthetic or email colours (rrvell or humbrol or model master) because this color will be damaged also. This lacquers are very very agressive!

Very good results I have with 2k clearcoat. Doesn' t matter which mark. I use Ivat from Italy. All 2k colours and clearcoats are not agressive against another sorts of colors. Under clearcoat you can use acrylic, synthetic or lacquer....

Posted

I do not use an airbrush, so I can't comment on that. But I've had mixed results hand brushing acrylics. I went with them for awhile. I liked the fact the brushes could be cleaned with plain tap water. But, I notice I'd have go over certain spots on what ever I was painting several times with acrylics. So I switched back to enamels for hand brush work.

As far as using rattle cans. I try to stay away from enamel paint. No matter what do, I seem to get a some orange peel with enamel spray paint. There I've switched over to using lacquer paint and have been a lot happier. And another bonus of lacquer. It dries a lot quicker than enamel.

Scott

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