1:16 Scale Revell 1934 3 window Coupe !

[fractalign]

Hey Guys !

I have been snowed under with another project. A line up of resin based pre 49 truck and pickups that I am trying to get released early in the new year. Everything else is on hold including this one unfortunately. I would like to recommence it sometime in the new year time permitting. There won't be any changes to the style of the build, but don't hold your breath for any new updates in the near future. Sorry guys !

[Belugawrx]

Oh yeah ,...Those trucks,....How is that going for you, robert?

[Greg Myers]

Wish they'd reissue these kits.   

[gasser59]

Me too Greg, me too.

[Greg Myers]

still lookin 

[heinz74]

yep reissue them..in 1/12 or even 1/8 scale...nice big MCG photoetc kit to go with it..that would be something..

[gasser59]

I've picked up one of these large scale '34s from my friend Greg Myers. Its a well built 80's style that I have plans on doing an early altered style with a Mark Johnson 392 hemi which I already have. Been saving it just for this build. It will be fenderless and have a scratch-built functioning straight axle. Not sure on the kind of rear end, depends on what's readily available. Thinking I'll open the doors as well as the trunk lid. This will be fun.

Edited April 14, 2016 by gasser59

[gasser59]

Any more progress on this one Robert??

[fractalign]

Hey Guys.

I am back into the build after a five year absence. I was looking at something to spark up my interest again and thought of this one out of all my stalled projects. The larger scale definitely draws me in and the accuracy and fit of the kit makes it the best 34 kit on the market. The build outline is still unchanged, it will still be using the same wheels and rear end and it will still feature an Arden equipped side valve. 

[fractalign]

As happy as I am with kit, there have been a number of changes I have made, aside from un chopping the roof. The most obvious has been the addition of a stock style firewall. It will include all the standard flanges and beads.

Edited April 27, 2020 by fractalign

[fractalign]

The deck lid was carefully cut out and like the firewall, this too will feature the stock features. One of the most challenging tasks was in creating the inner skin. This has been fashioned from a strip of clear styrene with the center section pushed up to resemble the raised section on the 1:1 that stopped oil canning. The reason I used clear styrene was so that I could place it over the outer lid and accurately mark out the holes.

[fractalign]

[fractalign]

The other change I have been making is in the roof itself.

[fractalign]

After looking at images of stock three windows, I soon realised the Roof on mine was wrong. The error is in the b pillar, due to the more severe rake. While this looks fine on the standard kit, on my stock height version it kept bugging me so I decided to do something about it.

 

[fractalign]

This is how it looks now after some subtle carving and reshaping of the swage.

[fractalign]

To insure the doors have a flush fit I have added a flange around the A pillar that’s actually part of the firewall.  A clean fit and finish will be important with the doors and one thing that’s often overlooked is the flange and surround. With the doors and deck lid being hinged, I will be adding in as much detail on the inside as possible. My next task is to finish off the detail around the re shaped door and roof line and transfer the updates over to the other side.

[RAT-T]

GREAT UPDATE ROBERT, MINE IS AT A STAND STILL FOR NOW, HAVING TROUBLE WITH THE B PILLAR ON MINE AS WELL AS THE CORRECT LOOKING ROOF SECTION TO BE CUT OUT

[fractalign]

For the centre section, I measured the one in the AMT 34 5 Window Coupe kit and scaled it up. 

 

[fractalign]

Hey Guys.

Another long overdue update. The doors are getting the inner skins. I am using styrene for the edges but for the skins themselves I am using thin clear styrene I sourced from packaging. The reason I am using this is because it’s thin enough to put the recesses into it like the original.

[fractalign]

Here they are sitting over the over the outers.

[fractalign]

As far as the door frames go, they will need a lot of reworking to end up matching each other. I was not happy with the severe rake on the b pillars so I re-did  the passenger side of the body and door. At first I was happy with how the door frame was looking until I looked at the other one.

I then realised I had carved too much of the shape away in the re-contouring that no amount of putty will fix. I have decided to finish the other frame and get a template from it to re-do the first one in new styrene. That will be the next task. 

[alan barton]

I admire your tenacity, Robert.  Window openings and swage lines have always been stumbling blocks for me when I have attempted more advanced bodywork. Un-chopping is more difficult than chopping, as I found out when I tackled unchopping the Ohio George 33 Willys coupe!

Would it be worth cutting out entirely new door frames from styrene and laminating in levels to produce the swage lines around the window openings? I guess that is what you hinted at in your last post.  I think otherwise that dor frame is going to be as fragile as a Pringle!

Cheers

Alan

[fractalign]

That’s what I will be doing with the finished frame as it’s too damaged to repair. The other door frame will carefully be put back together utilising as much of the original as possible as there is already a styrene backing frame to attach it.