House of Kolor paint questions

[ferrarijoe]

Hey guys I saw a house of kolor paint set on amazonhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039788WS?pc_redir=1411189702&robot_redir=1

has 9 40 bottles for around $ 90. I have a few questions since I never used it.

1. What primer do you use with it. Will tamiya and alclad micro primer work.

2. Is that a good price.

3. Do you have to clear it or is it gloss. If you clear what kind. Is future safe for it.

4. Do most automotive paint supply places carry it.

5. What do you clean your airbrush with after using it.

6. How's it work on photo etched pieces. Like wings.

7. Is the same primer safe on resin. If different from Tamiya or alclad.

I can't get any good paint here since no hobby store only hobby lobby. And I don't care for testors cans spray to thick.

[jwrass]

Mo,

I have 35+ years working with HOK products. I have their full catalog binders dating back to the 1970s on a shelf right in front of me. Not the freebee slicks that they give out, the ones that are sold for mucho $$$$ I get gratis for various reasons so I believe I can help. I will need to ask you some questions to reply to all of your questions however I will answer what I can now.

In your opening statement you said "9 40 bottles" I'm guessing the nine is the count of bottles what is the 40? is that the measurement of contents in the bottle?

Is the paint Urethane or Lacquer?

The following are answers to the questions as you have them listed.

1) You can use any lacquer or urethane primer. Do not use any type of enamel type primer.

2) When you purchase these type of paints pigments (color) play a factor in pricing. Sample example: If you pay $5 dollars for White you most likely will pay $10 for Red in the same measurement, for this example lets just say this is 1 oz.

3) They do have some colors that do not need to be cleared however 95%+ of their products need a clear coat.

4) No! Only the suppliers that choose to cater to the Kustom paint market and qualify to resell their product HOK used to be a privately owned company, It is now owned by Valpar Automotive Finishes. Neither one of the suppliers that I purchase my HOK sell Valspar OEM automotive finishes. I would think that any Valspar distributor could get this product for you If the suppler chooses to sell it to the GQ public or if your state has laws that prevent the resale of this product to non professionals. You can purchase any of the HOK online, one excellent source that I use is Coast Airbrush.

5) I use the reducer that is made for the product line first followed by Lacquer thinner.

6) I really don't understand the question, but if you are asking will it stick to metal the answers is yes however the piece should be primed first.

7) The HOK primers are safe on resin however they are expensive! Their Chemistry (HOK ) is much different than Tamiya or Alclad. You don't need to use HOK primers as a under coat Tamiya will work fine. I don't no about Alclad as I have never used their primer my guess would be yes. Just make sure the primers you use are not enamel based.

I hope this helps HOK is a great product. Opps I didn't check the link on amazon before I wrote this. I will check it now and respond in a few. jwrass

Edit: The products for sale are by TPC global which is a good company. I have purchased air tools from them and have been satisfied.

The listing is for a quantity of 9, 4 ounce bottles. The description is very vague as to what bases, colors, etc that you get. I went to Coasts Site and the average price for a 4 oz bottle is $14.00. 9x$14= $126.00 so that would be a very good price however, I would buy based on the colors I know I want to use. If you don't plan to use half of the colors then only you can determine if it's worth the cost! By the same token if you are looking to experiment with various products of the HOK line I would say it's a deal! If it were me I would call TCP and ask what's included in the package. If it's not what you want you can ask if they can do a ala cart package of your choice, it's worth asking you at least have a 50/50 chance of getting what you want.

I think we have all the questions you asked covered! If you have anymore give a shout! jwrass

Edited September 23, 2014 by jwrass

[ferrarijoe]

Thanks a lot you answered it all. Only other question is what psi do you shoot it at. If it helps I use Iwata brushes. I have the Eclipse hp-cs and their high performance plus HP-C plus. Again Thanks for all your help.

And besides the colors I what else should i get with it as far as reducers and thinners.

Edited September 23, 2014 by ferrarijoe

[jwrass]

Joe, Mo, Mo, Joe,

Sorry for calling you Mo! Joe,

For Airbrushing Lacquer I just use Big Box Store thinners, It dries fast, it's great for clean up and it's less expensive than the automotive brands.

For Urethanes I typically use a fast thinner due to the nature of the work I do (see my profile) I use HOK # 310 fast dry. I would use the same thinner (and have) for models as I have many years with spray equipment in my hands. For someone who is just beginning I would recommend a Medium dry reducer as it will help the paint flow out smoother. It's trickier to apply than the fast dry but I think it will give you the results you are looking for, nice and shinny vs a fast dry reducer, the fast dries fairly quick and you may get discouraged because you most likely won't get the nice and shinny look with your first attempts.

I have many brands of airbrushes and my choice Is Iwata, I have a Eclipse HP-CS and that is a excellent brush!!!!

Wow now the psi question!!!! due to the nature of the work I do it can be from 10-60 psi. I have been doing this for so long I pay more attention to how the paint is falling on the surface and the technique or effect I am trying to achieve. For a model I would say anywhere between 20-30 psi. PSI has a direct relationship to how you reduce your paint too. My best advice is to practice on a old body or a sheet of styrene. What works for me may not work for you, experiment, find what works for you! Watch the surface as you lay down the paint and try to maintain a 50% overlap on the spray pattern. You will develop a cadence that is right for you with time and practice. If the surface is grainy and funky you are moving to slow and to far away from the surface. If you move to slow or close most of the paint will be on your floor or shoes or both. You will blow a paint job or two get used to it, We have all done it and will all do it again. Learn from it! the best advice I can give you is practice, practice, practice. I have been doing this type of work since I was 16 years old and I still practice and experiment. If you have the passion and patience you will succeed!!

Hit me up anytime, I am always willing to share!

jwrass

[ferrarijoe]

Once again thanks alot. I have learned a lot from your 2 replies. And i will definitely pm you if i have questions.

[10thumbs]

Hello Joe, just pay attention to what jwrass says, you won't go wrong.

He brought me to H of K paints, and I have to tell you this stuff is just amazing. It's so easy to work with, and you'll get excellent results. Experiment with your tip sizes and air pressure till you can get the paint on there wet enough. My brush likes the 0.5mm tip and about 50 lbs. pressure. Each brush is different, so I've gathered.

I've used the usual model paints and some Duplicolor stuff, enamels and acrylics with my air brush. H of K is worlds better in my opinion! I don't see a need to try anything further.

Good luck,

Michael