photo etched parts - how/when to attach to the car?

[Chris D]

Hi all,

First post here (I think), great forum!

I picked up a set of photo etched parts which are emblems and such for a car I am building. They are very finely detailed and I really like them and think they will look good.

I have sanded off the molded letters and emblems and primed the body. Found out that sanding off the existing molded details is trickier than I thought!

Before I spray the color coat, I started thinking about these photo etched parts. Do I attach them now and then sand off the paint later? Or, do I glue them on after the color coat?

Using that "looper" glue tool, I am getting pretty good with gluing on small details without too much mess but am still concerned about these small photo etched parts.

Chris D

[High octane]

I install my photo-etched parts after I'm done polishing out the clear coat on my model. I use 5-Minute Epoxy for this, and it seems to work well.

[Ramfins59]

As Nick said, install the PE emblems and such after the clearcoat has been polished. I use clear enamel paint to glue them on. If you've ever fought with a jar of paint to get the stuck-on lid off, you know that dried paint makes an excellent glue.

I use a toothpick to apply a tiny drop of the clear paint to the spot on the body where the part should go. Then I place the part onto the drop of clear paint and position it properly. Then LEAVE IT ALONE UNTIL THE PAINT DRIES. If you didn't use too much clear enamel, no paint should "squish out" from under the part and you won't see any. This is the method that has worked best for me.

[Miatatom]

Using that "looper" glue tool, I am getting pretty good with gluing on small details without too much mess but am still concerned about these small photo etched parts.

Are you talking about using a needle when you mentioned the looper glue tool?

[my80malibu]

As Nick said, install the PE emblems and such after the clearcoat has been polished. I use clear enamel paint to glue them on. If you've ever fought with a jar of paint to get the stuck-on lid off, you know that dried paint makes an excellent glue.

I use a toothpick to apply a tiny drop of the clear paint to the spot on the body where the part should go. Then I place the part onto the drop of clear paint and position it properly. Then LEAVE IT ALONE UNTIL THE PAINT DRIES. If you didn't use too much clear enamel, no paint should "squish out" from under the part and you won't see any. This is the method that has worked best for me.

I like this method

[High octane]

I mix my 5 Minute Epoxy with a toothpick and apply the glue with a straight pin, as some of the photo-etched parts are awfully small like the pentastar on a Mopar.

[Exotics_Builder]

Are you talking about using a needle when you mentioned the looper glue tool?

No, it is a real tool. Works well with Super Glue.

[Miatatom]

What's your source for the looper tool?

[Chris D]

Thanks for all the responses guys,

Relating to the looper tool, I picked up a kit at a local swap meet. It does work good, but the thing is, you have to have a lighter or some other fire source to burn off the built up glue. Since I quit smoking about 6 years ago, I don't have any lighters around and have not bought one so I use matches.

Chris D

[jbwelda]

my advice: use Future floor wax to attach the small photoetch stuff. essentially the same method as with the clear mentioned above, but way less chance of a mess. it can be removed with ammonia leaving no marks if you need to redo it. epoxy is too thick in my experience and will show if not careful. Future will basically not show at all. I generally put a small amount down, put the PE piece in it and position it as I like it, then let it dry. then put a tiny drop on top of the PE piece and its there pretty much for good unless you remove it with ammonia/windex/whatever.

jb