impcon Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 I'm working on trying to restore some dignity to a couple of old SMP or AMT annuals, one of which had some real issues and still does. I am almost complete in making the bottom of the body presentable but I have to get into some tight areas on it ( and the second car as well, although not nearly as much ) as I have had to rebuild some crucial body lines. I thought that I had done a better job than I have but once I put the gray primer on, the boo boos just kind of jumped right out at me. I've painted real 1:1 cars and I know that if a blemish is visible when the vehicle is in primer, then it will be many times more visible when the shiny paint goes on. So, my question is what do you use to get into really tight areas such as engine bays and chassis and between body lines and trim, to sand unwanted filler or seam lines away? I'm talking a space just 1/4" wide on the lower body on the one car and on the other, to get in tight enough to the side trim to really clean it up and sharpen the edges. I can post photos if anyone needs to see them to get a better idea as to what I am talking about. I probably have twenty hours in the one car just repairing and cleaning and I want it as nice as I can make it.. because I still have a long ways to go. Besides, the model to me is worth the time and effort given the subject matter and the fact that I really do like '58 Fords. I;d appreciate any suggestions as to methods, tools or means of accomplishing my goal.
Foxer Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 There are a number of various sanding shapes and tools available. Try searching "sanding" or similar at Micro Mark. Many times I just make a sanding stick that will do a specific job. Recently I had a frame with ejector pin marks and raised text to be removed in small flat areas . .a common problem. The ejector pin recessed areas were filled and I made a sander using a paper punch, sandpaper, a wood dowel and double stick foam used for wall hanging. It should be obvious how these were put together, I believe. This principal works for many areas not accessible to common sanding sticks.
Matt Bacon Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 There are some options: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234971934-ultimate-sanders/ http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234971924-moulding-flash-sanders/ http://www.artcotools.com/sanding-sticks.html http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Half-Round-Sanding-Sticks/337593?Pos=2 http://www.ratomodeling.com/reviews/flory_sticks/ or even: http://www.walmart.com/ip/BMC-9pc-Assorted-Sized-Mix-Ombre-Colored-Glass-Manicure-Nail-Buffer-File-Set/39323720 With the nail tools, they are usually a sanding grit surface on top of some foam on top of a hard polythene base. You can cut and shape the ends to any size/width/point you want... In general a visit to the "Nail care" section of your favourite local chemist/druggist/pharmacy/superstore often turns up useful modelling tools! bestest, M.
impcon Posted January 14, 2015 Author Posted January 14, 2015 Thanks guys. I'll do my research and see what I come up with. I am using Squadron white Putty for filling pinholes and 1:1 Sherwin Williams two part glazing putty on any of the areas needing larger quantities of filling. I like the Squadron putty except for the fact that when used in small amounts, it dries much too quickly - sometimes before I can get it applied. Any suggestions on a way to slow that drying time down or an alternative product that I can buy? I appreciate the feedback. A thread dealing with input based on experience and tips to do with "Fine Finishing" may be a good topic for another sticky... anyone agree?
Jantrix Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 I use sanding sticks from the nail care area in my local beauty supply store. I then cut them down with my zona saw to whatever size I need.
1930fordpickup Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 Double stick tape and what ever you choose to stick it to works good. Wood , a stiff rubber block or what ever you can find that fits in the area that you need to sand. Get the good indoor stuff for carpets , it works better. The all weather stuff is thicker and hard to cut with a very good glue on it. You should be able to peel off the tape from one end and then reapply a new piece of sandpaper and tape.
Old Buckaroo Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 I never used the Squadron white due to I always have the green. But for filling little areas with precision this is my method. Take a small drop of Squadron putty and place it on a plastic lid - like the old clear ones that came on real metal cans of coffee. Once you have that drop add a drop of laquer thinner to it and stir it with a toothpick to make a creamy paste. Use a small old paintbruss that hasbeen cut off (1/8 " of bristles works best for me) and apply the paste. This is the method I used for years on aircraft seams and small areas.
southpier Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 anything & everything that works! sanding sticks and cut those with shears to special shapes, different grits of wet & dry automotive sandpaper, flexifiles, riffler files (most moderately priced works fine; we're only cutting plastic & putty), nylon & brass brush toothbrushes. after the Stevens International #240 & #320 grit sticks, my go-to sanding tool is Klingspore foam pads. they can be cut with scissors and used wet or dry. buncha different grits and affordable bought in 10 packs. the biggest intuitive mistake I had to overcome was starting with grits too fine for what I was doing. #180 is not too coarse (for me- YMMV) and I've even grabbed some #120 to knock off the big stuff. good selection & service here: http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/fa03000/#.VLbDNWd0z4Y
Matt Bacon Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 It was those needles I was trying to find! Where are they from, then? bestest, M.
High octane Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 I've seen those Plastic Sanding Needles at my local Hobby Lobby. Hmmm, maybe I should get some???
jwrass Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 I personally have not had much success with the Sanding Needles as they seem to lose their adbrasives quickly ( Maybe I just got a bad batch) I like to us popcicle sticks, tongue depressors and wooden dowels. Spray the wood and the sand paper with some 3M Super 77 adhesive, stick them together and cut to any angle you like with a old pair of tin snips. Works great for me!
Ace-Garageguy Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 I personally have not had much success with the Sanding Needles as they seem to lose their adbrasives quickly ( Maybe I just got a bad batch) I like to us popcicle sticks, tongue depressors and wooden dowels. Spray the wood and the sand paper with some 3M Super 77 adhesive, stick them together and cut to any angle you like with a old pair of tin snips. Works great for me! Yup, and rubber cement works well to glue the sandpaper to sticks as well. I have a Starbucks-addicted friend who saves her stir-sticks for me. I have to agree with the guys who don't much care for the sanding needles. Good idea, poor execution. Grit goes away almost instantly, and there's a big ol' mold seam running down both sides of them.
jeffs396 Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 The sanding needles from Hobby Lobby don't keep the abrasive on super long I agree, but with the 40% off coupon, they're cheap enough to pitch after a few uses...
Roadrunner Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 I'm dealing with the same problem right now, trying to remove the molded on Revell trademark nonsense on the bottom of a chassis. It's molded right between the gas tank and frame, so I'm getting at it with my Excel belt sanding stick, and a very small hobby chisel I picked up somewhere.
Matt Bacon Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) Good idea, poor execution. Grit goes away almost instantly, and there's a big ol' mold seam running down both sides of them. That's a shame -- I had hoped that they were needles moulded from a solid mix of grit n resin, so they'd stay "sharp" even as they wore away. In that case I'll stick with my hand carved nail files! bestest, M. Edited January 15, 2015 by Matt Bacon
southpier Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Roadrunner, on 14 Jan 2015 - 8:58 PM, said: ... trying to remove the molded on Revell trademark nonsense on the bottom of a chassis.... I've been under that same frame:
southpier Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 they're not jeweler's quality, but we're not cutting titanium, either:
southpier Posted January 16, 2015 Posted January 16, 2015 more tight sanding tips here: http://www.largescaleplanes.com/tips/RodneyWilliams/Tools/tools.php
Mackvision Posted January 16, 2015 Posted January 16, 2015 I bought a set of these a few years back and really like them for "tight spots" they work great for me,especially on engraved trademarks and the like..............................Mark
Roadrunner Posted January 16, 2015 Posted January 16, 2015 I've been under that same frame: Not a bad idea at all, Joe, though the micro chisel is very handy for this sort of thing too. I'm not even sure the judges will flip it over,... but they might.
atomicholiday Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) Look here: http://www.alphaabrasives.com/index.php I just bought some of their sanding sticks at Hobby Lobby today. We'll see how well they work. Edited January 17, 2015 by atomicholiday
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