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Posted

No, it is the '69 kit, issued in 1988. It is a convertible, molded in orange. I did not realize the kit was 30 years old! It is definitely sad looking.

Posted
8 hours ago, alexis said:

No, it is the '69 kit, issued in 1988. It is a convertible, molded in orange. I did not realize the kit was 30 years old! It is definitely sad looking.

Yeah, that's a completely different kit with a whole different set of problems. It's basically unfixable, but with the much superior Revell '69 commonly available (even in a convertible), there's not much reason to even try. Best thing for that (MPC) kit is to come up with some FUN way to build it, and just have FUN with it. B)

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Great stuff, Snake. I think, after scribing/removing the bad trim, that by carefully cutting and fitting the rear window to the opening, you could pretty much eliminate the tunneled look. I saved this, too. It looks much, much better.

Posted
9 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

Great stuff, Snake. I think, after scribing/removing the bad trim, that by carefully cutting and fitting the rear window to the opening, you could pretty much eliminate the tunneled look. I saved this, too. It looks much, much better.

Yes, that would work even better. And here's an improvement to that idea: Remove the rear window trim entirely by cutting or filing. Then cut and fit the rear window to fit THAT space. Then foil (or paint) the trim onto the glass before installing it. This way you eliminate any possible gap between the glass and trim (and hide the edge, to boot), and the joint between body and "trim" wouldn't look unnatural. 

  • 11 months later...
Posted
On 10/19/2018 at 6:48 PM, Snake45 said:

Yes, that would work even better. And here's an improvement to that idea: Remove the rear window trim entirely by cutting or filing. Then cut and fit the rear window to fit THAT space. Then foil (or paint) the trim onto the glass before installing it. This way you eliminate any possible gap between the glass and trim (and hide the edge, to boot), and the joint between body and "trim" wouldn't look unnatural. 

When you build an AMT 1968 Camaro do you leave the transition between the lower firewall and floor alone or fill that in?

The interior tub has part of the lower firewall and it's not finished off.  

I hope this all makes sense.

 

Posted
2 hours ago, crowe-t said:

When you build an AMT 1968 Camaro do you leave the transition between the lower firewall and floor alone or fill that in?

The interior tub has part of the lower firewall and it's not finished off.  

I hope this all makes sense.

 

I don't recall ever doing anything special in that area, but then I'm not that much of an interior guy. 

Posted
Just now, Snake45 said:

I don't recall ever doing anything special in that area, but then I'm not that much of an interior guy. 

I was referring to where the firewall meets the floor.  There is an open space in the middle.

Posted
4 hours ago, crowe-t said:

I was referring to where the firewall meets the floor.  There is an open space in the middle.

I still got nothin'. 

Posted

This is one of the most useful threads I've read. Inspirational, too! It's got me wanting to buy one of these, just so I can watch it take shape! It looks a thousand times better. I know this is similar to my other post, but, it bears repeating!

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Thanks for the tips, gonna improve the Camaro immensely. 

My suggestion for the window trim, bevel the trim to the glass and make the transition less noticeable. 

Question I have is, is there a way to improve the taillights? They're just too boxy and don't look right at all!

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