Scale-Master Posted March 18, 2015 Author Posted March 18, 2015 It's just sheet styrene. And thanks Carl.
BirdWatcher Posted March 18, 2015 Posted March 18, 2015 I love the split bumper years, and yours is beautiful! This is gonna be cool!
Scale-Master Posted March 19, 2015 Author Posted March 19, 2015 I made a copy of the graphic equalizer. To give some depth to the shifter plate area I put the gear selector lettering and the blue plastic dust cover in the recess of the console. I made the shifter plate to sit flush above with some space between like the real car.
Scale-Master Posted March 20, 2015 Author Posted March 20, 2015 I made a Hurst T-handle shifter to match the real one. Yes, it is an automatic, but I custom made the shifter in the car to work with the 700R4. This piece can be filed away until final assembly.
Scale-Master Posted March 21, 2015 Author Posted March 21, 2015 Thanks guys. I decided to use the kit provided engine with some modifications. First I cut the 4 speed manual transmission off and cemented the engine halves together. After painting it I made a decal for the Fram filter.
John Teresi Posted March 21, 2015 Posted March 21, 2015 Mark........looking good......will this be done for GSL?
Scale-Master Posted March 22, 2015 Author Posted March 22, 2015 After looking at the headers while playing with the wire looms I did some minor reworking to bring the rear pipes in tighter. Despite warnings of fit issues especially since I attached the rear panel to the body, it seems to fit quite well with all the interior parts and glass temporarily installed. The firewall is a little tight to install, but once I modify the kit part to match my car it should provide a bit more wiggle room. I doubt this one will be done for the next GSL, I'm not sure it will even be done this year. It's done when it's done...
darthsideous Posted March 25, 2015 Posted March 25, 2015 Those headers look fantastic. Ditto thatTransmission looks great too!
kruleworld Posted March 26, 2015 Posted March 26, 2015 That's some fabulous detail work. makes me think why you stick with kit parts, when you're basically re-building those parts entirely.
Scale-Master Posted March 26, 2015 Author Posted March 26, 2015 Well, after scratch-building a whole car it seems logical to take the easier way these projects when I can build on existing parts and save a little effort. It's not like there is any need to save them for something else either.
Scale-Master Posted April 17, 2015 Author Posted April 17, 2015 I started making a GM HEI distributor for it and when I mocked it up on the engine block I realized I’d better check for clearance under the hood before getting too far along. That meant I needed to first address the transmission cross member since on my car the factory one is modified and installed 180 degrees to accommodate the 700R4. I sawed the cross member out of the subframe and filled the two holes. I drilled and pinned it for a positive fit. I also began filling in the top of the subframe with filler. (The orange one is the way the kit comes.) After test fitting this subassembly into the body/chassis I can see it does have enough clearance and is similarly tight like the real counterpart.
blunc Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 I put an HEI distributor in my '68 Firebird, it's an ignition upgrade that gives a lot more "bang for the buck" than most people realize. I even figured out a way to use an HEI module and external coil on a Ford 2.8 litre V6, never have to worry about spark on that car.
slusher Posted April 18, 2015 Posted April 18, 2015 The sub frame looks really great with the gaps filled in Mark. What did you use? i really like how it looks...
Scale-Master Posted April 18, 2015 Author Posted April 18, 2015 This is just the first round to fill the frame. Often I'll use CA, but these are deeper than most others I've encountered.I used Evercoat polyester filler (two-part). I'll give it another skin coat of the same stuff then soften the frame corners a bit.Any decent two part poly filler will work.
Scale-Master Posted April 22, 2015 Author Posted April 22, 2015 I decided to work on the front suspension since I was tinkering with the sub-frame. I installed a C4 Corvette fiberglass monoleaf set up on the real car. So to add it to the model I made a brass insert for the cross-member where the spring will be mounted. The upper control arms and spindles are the factory GM units, but the lower control arms are special made items. I made this pair from sheet styrene.
Scale-Master Posted April 22, 2015 Author Posted April 22, 2015 These will become the front (Koni) shocks. Before assembling the main suspension parts to the sub-frame I figured I should make the sub-frame connectors. They are built up out of sheet styrene and brass. I also had to open the rear of the front sub-frame rails to accept them, like the real car.
Mike Chernecki Posted April 23, 2015 Posted April 23, 2015 Looking good. May I ask how this setup performs on your Camaro. I at one time considered the C4 mono leaf upgrade for my Nova.But holding out to one day upgrade to the expensive Detroit Speed front clip.
slusher Posted April 23, 2015 Posted April 23, 2015 Your great at scratch building. Enjoy seeing your work..
Scale-Master Posted April 23, 2015 Author Posted April 23, 2015 I installed the mono leaf back in 1988 partly because even though I had the OEM part numbers for the front springs, no supplier would guarantee the car would sit right. (My main guy said I could swap springs as many as I wanted to try, but for those of you who have changed front coils in a home garage you'll understand what pain that can be to test fit.)One of the benefits of this set up is I can adjust the spring rate to three settings and the ride height is infinitely adjustable.It handles incredibly well, like a giant go kart. But it also has a 1-1/4 inch front sway bar, 1 inch rear sway bar and traction bars that balance the rear leaf springs to match heavier spring rate I set up on the front. And even with the sub-frame connectors, the suspension is very hard on the car, not to mention the ride is harsher than my C/10.The only downside other than the aggressive ride is the inherent shudder common in C3 Corvettes when driving on very rough or uneven roads. Manageable, but grating, and not a real problem if you pay attention to the road.It was worth every penny and only took about 1/2 a day to install and align. I took to the alignment shop and was a little surprised I nailed the settings just using a tape measure, level and a square. But then being a brake & front end mechanic for several years beforehand probably helped...
Mike Chernecki Posted April 23, 2015 Posted April 23, 2015 I installed the mono leaf back in 1988 partly because even though I had the OEM part numbers for the front springs, no supplier would guarantee the car would sit right. (My main guy said I could swap springs as many as I wanted to try, but for those of you who have changed front coils in a home garage you'll understand what pain that can be to test fit.) One of the benefits of this set up is I can adjust the spring rate to three settings and the ride height is infinitely adjustable. It handles incredibly well, like a giant go kart. But it also has a 1-1/4 inch front sway bar, 1 inch rear sway bar and traction bars that balance the rear leaf springs to match heavier spring rate I set up on the front. And even with the sub-frame connectors, the suspension is very hard on the car, not to mention the ride is harsher than my C/10. The only downside other than the aggressive ride is the inherent shudder common in C3 Corvettes when driving on very rough or uneven roads. Manageable, but grating, and not a real problem if you pay attention to the road. It was worth every penny and only took about 1/2 a day to install and align. I took to the alignment shop and was a little surprised I nailed the settings just using a tape measure, level and a square. But then being a brake & front end mechanic for several years beforehand probably helped... Thanks for the info. Nice to hear for someone with first hand experience.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now