crowe-t Posted February 17, 2015 Posted February 17, 2015 Is JB-Weld is much stronger the Devcon 5 Minute Epoxy? How strong is JB-Weld compared to JB KwikWeld?
wayne swayze Posted February 17, 2015 Posted February 17, 2015 I have used the JB weld and was very happy with the product. I put 2 equal amounts on a Post-it-note, then THOROUGHLY mix with a toothpick, then depending on the application, I use another toothpick or a round toothpick for delicate edges. Give it the appropriate amount of time to harden, and you should be good to go. Seems to make a very strong bond...I really like it.
crowe-t Posted February 17, 2015 Author Posted February 17, 2015 (edited) Thanks Wayne! I suppose the regular JB-Weld is stronger than the JB KwikWeld which is sort of a 6 minute JB-Weld. I'm gluing a small brass with nickel coating, nut, to styrene so I can attach a part with a screw. I mentioned in another thread that I used Devcon 5 Minute Epoxy and the nut didn't hold. Edited February 17, 2015 by crowe-t
Swamp Dog Posted February 17, 2015 Posted February 17, 2015 it will hold a crack in a water jacket on a real engine , so it will hold what u are doing . they also make a industrial JB Weld also
crowe-t Posted February 17, 2015 Author Posted February 17, 2015 it will hold a crack in a water jacket on a real engine , so it will hold what u are doing . they also make a industrial JB Weld also Thanks! I should use regular JB-Weld instead of the JB-Kwik Weld?
Swamp Dog Posted February 17, 2015 Posted February 17, 2015 Thanks! I should use regular JB-Weld instead of the JB-Kwik Weld? yes i would use regular JB
crowe-t Posted February 17, 2015 Author Posted February 17, 2015 yes i would use regular JB Thanks David!
Swamp Dog Posted February 17, 2015 Posted February 17, 2015 (edited) Thanks David! u welcome Edited February 17, 2015 by Swamp Dog
Ace-Garageguy Posted February 17, 2015 Posted February 17, 2015 Just an FYI...the longer ANY epoxy product takes to cure, the stronger the bond will be. Regular JB is stronger than 5-minute stuff. 30-minute hobby-shop RC epoxy is stronger than the 15 minute stuff. And the stuff I use (made for real aircraft) takes 24 hours to cure at room temperature, plus another 16 hours at elevated temps. Stronger than anything a modeler or layman is likely to EVER encounter. But that's why they glue airplanes together with it.
Skip Posted February 17, 2015 Posted February 17, 2015 JB Weld is capable of being drilled and tapped, I've never had a failure using it. I've used it to repair no structural engine block stuff like holes in the block or oil pan. Devon is another metalizer epoxy product that works well, it should for the price!
southpier Posted February 17, 2015 Posted February 17, 2015 never had much luck with any product in the syringe dispenser. probably me, but i'd always opt for two separate containers. the Smith Industries brand is good, and a value from HL w/ coupon.
jbwelda Posted February 17, 2015 Posted February 17, 2015 I never used the stuff myself, though I do faintly remember trying to patch a hole in an engine block (real size) once. lasted about 5 minutes until it blew it out. jb
Craig Irwin Posted February 17, 2015 Posted February 17, 2015 Several years ago I was at a motorcycle rally in southern Indiana and a couple from West Virgina riding cracked and split the engine cases on the old Harley Panhead chopper they were riding. They used J B Weld and rode the bike home with no problems.
southpier Posted February 17, 2015 Posted February 17, 2015 ...... faintly remember trying to patch a hole in an engine block.... Marine-Tex; that stuff's whatcha need for ingins
MeatMan Posted February 18, 2015 Posted February 18, 2015 Geez, I wish I had read this before this past weekend when I bought the J-B quick. Oh well. As for Devcon, my brother-in-law used it many moons ago to fix a cracked block on a 390 Ford. He bought the motor not knowing it had a crack under the intake manifold. It ran for at least 3 years with no leaks.
Ace-Garageguy Posted February 18, 2015 Posted February 18, 2015 We used a lot of Devcon F back in the boon duggy and formula V days. Rod through the case? No problemo.
cobraman Posted February 18, 2015 Posted February 18, 2015 As my friend Bill knows JB Weld was used to fix a head on my 2004 Mustang GT. It worked perfect and was still working good when the car was traded in a month or so ago. Very strong stuff.
wayne swayze Posted February 18, 2015 Posted February 18, 2015 I used Devcon for quite a while, but heard good things about JB, so Ithought I'd try it out. When I moved about 4 years ago, I packed things carefully and the only cars that dropped bumpers etc, were models from long ago that were assembled using tube glue. The rest can be moved around with no problem. So for final assembly, I ALWAYS use JB.
Ace-Garageguy Posted February 18, 2015 Posted February 18, 2015 (edited) The primary place where JB or any adhesive, no matter how "strong" it's supposed to be, really lets people down is when it's used for small-surface-area butt joints. If you glue two pieces of 1/16" stock together end to end and expect it to hold...you're dreaming. Even my insanely strong and expensive aircraft stuff wouldn't last long in that application. The smaller the surface area of your joint, the more likely it will fail, period. It's just common sense. Yes, you can probably glue tiny little nuts to a model with JB and screw something into them, but as mentioned by someone above, if the screw bottoms in the hole, it will simply jack the nut right off the part it's glued to. And if the threads of the nut aren't perfectly clear, it will probably twist off as you try to screw a screw into it. One other thing to remember when using JB or similar "hardware store grade" epoxy products: although they're made to be somewhat tolerant of mixing proportion errors, take the time to try to get EXACTLY a 1:1 ratio (if that's what is called for). Epoxies really like to be mixed in the correct proportions to get maximum strength. It's important to give all the little molecules the right number of hands to hold on other molecules...really. TRY to get it as close as you possibly can to the recommended mix-ratio to avoid disappointment. The stuff we use on aircraft HAS to be mixed on a gram scale, and it HAS to be dead-nuts on to within 1/2 of 1 %. Edited February 18, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy
Mike_G Posted February 18, 2015 Posted February 18, 2015 Maybe soldering the nut to a piece of brass tubing that will fit over the plastic piece would be an option
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