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Posted

The safest bet is to use Dupli-Color's Clear, it's good stuff, and you won't have to worry about any reactions between the color and clear. If you're using Dupli-Color paints, you need to use a Primer/Sealer before laying down the colors, they're hotter than normal paints and will burn the styrene body!

Posted

Thanks, I did do a model a while ago with the same brand paint, and used the same type of primer for it that I got now, and it works fine. Thank you. Just been reading bout futura/pledge as a clear coat, will that work??

Posted

Thanks, I did do a model a while ago with the same brand paint, and used the same type of primer for it that I got now, and it works fine. Thank you. Just been reading bout futura/pledge as a clear coat, will that work??

Yes. Future is an acrylic and will safely go over anything.

Posted

Been using the Duplicolor clear lately with good results. Although, I have had "fogging" issues in the past, I've not had that problem as of late. I think it may have been more of an issue with base coats or humidity than the clear itself. Steve

Posted

Allen,

I do 1:1 custom painting and I never cross breed materials I always stick with one manufactures product from start to finish.

It is my experience and feeling that, that is best practice. I think duplicolor makes a fine product for modeling (I personally would not use it on 1:1) I would definitely say use Duplicolor clear over your Duplicolor ground coat.

Posted (edited)

I use Duplicolor for my models and from my personal experience Testors clear coat as well as Rustoleum Acrylic Enamel clear coat give good results. The Rustoleum is a thicker clear coat and really only needs 2 coats and works great (very tough stuff). I know I'm cross breeding products but I have had good results with both. I have also heard good things about the "newer" Duplicolor clear coat as well. I simply haven't tried it yet because I still have a full can of both the Testors and Rustoleum :rolleyes:. Once those are empty I will most likely give the Duplicolor a try.

Edited by 1hobby1
Posted

I started using Duplicolor clear when TS-13 was unavailable, it works pretty well but not as good as TS-13 (at least for me)

Posted

I've used Duplicolor's Clearcoat for years over both Duplicolor and Tamiya paints and never had any problems. Just don't spray it on in too heavy a coat causing runs. Put 2 or 3 good coats over your paint, let it dry for a couple of days and you're good to go for using a polishing kit.

Posted

I have used Duplicolor clear over Duplicolor, Tamiya, and Testors Custom Lacquer series. In fact, the Big Scale Beauty car in my sig was Duplicolor Black with Tamiya French Blue topped with Duplicolor clear, if memory serves me. The only issues I have had was in some instances, if I would use Duplicolor colors for stripes over Testors lacquer lacquer, sometimes the Duplicolor color would "pull away" from the masked line, and it wouldn`t be straight after applying the Duplicolor clear.

Posted (edited)

Been using the Duplicolor clear lately with good results. Although, I have had "fogging" issues in the past, I've not had that problem as of late. I think it may have been more of an issue with base coats or humidity than the clear itself. Steve

Steven, what you're getting is "blushing", caused by humidity. Being that I live in the South, and only 30 minutes from the Atlantic Ocean, I deal with this issue on just about every paint job I do, with the only exception being Urethanes. Here's how you get around that little issue with ease!

Grab a space heater and keep it plugged in and ready when you're painting. Once you've laid down your paint, get the body/part near the heater and you can "burn" the blushing out using the heater. Don't get too close, keep the body/part a safe distance but close enough that you can feel the heat, and keep moving it to keep from melting it. After about 10 seconds, the blushing should be completely gone, and you're ready for your next coats! Repeat as needed until you're done painting!

Edited by Custom Mike
Posted (edited)

Steven, what you're getting is "blushing", caused by humidity. Being that I live in the South, and only 30 minutes from the Atlantic Ocean, I deal with this issue on just about every paint job I do, with the only exception being Urethanes. Here's how you get around that little issue with ease!

Grab a space heater and keep it plugged in and ready when you're painting. Once you've laid down your paint, get the body/part near the heater and you can "burn" the blushing out using the heater. Don't get too close, keep the body/part a safe distance but close enough that you can feel the heat, and keep moving it to keep from melting it. After about 10 seconds, the blushing should be completely gone, and you're ready for your next coats! Repeat as needed until you're done painting!

I live in Minnesota where there's virtually no humidity at all in the winter months, & in the summer I'm painting in an air conditioned room. I've had minor fogging or blushing incidents in the past with Duplicolor paints, but usually nothing that couldn't be polished out. The major problems seam to have been due to primer or something. I was using Testors lacquer primers for a while, followed by MCW paint, but when I clear coated with Duplicolor clear, rather than blushing, it looked under magnification as though the primer was "leaching" up through the paint. Something that couldn't be polished out. I've had my fill of Testors Lacquer paints, primers & clear coats & have completely given up on them. If anyone is a fan of Testors lacquers, you may want to leave the room now as I vent my frustrations with them. When I first started using them, I thought they were great, although I stayed away from the metallics just because the metal flakes in them are just hugely out of scale! Then there was the issue with the primer I just mentioned & others I won't. The clear coat seemed to work well for me......for a while. Then suddenly I started having major cracking issues which after a while I decided was due to the slower curing properties it has as apposed to a fast drying Duplicolor. It seems the final coat, in a multi-coat system, were drying slower than successive coats causing the top coat to crack. Any way, sorry about the rant but I really feel let down by the Testors lacquers & clears & will not return to using them. Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
Posted (edited)

While talking about Dupli-color---> clear what do you all think is a good time frame between clear coats ? .....my last car I let it set all night after putting base color coat down then the next day put clear on and in 15 minuets put second coat on.

Edited by mavtoy
Posted

With Duplicolor, I'm not shy about re-coating after about 15 minutes. I like to give it a little time between coats to gas out, but re-coating doesn't seem to be an issue like I had with Testors. By the way, be warned, Duplicolor clear & Alclad don't play well together. Found that out the hard way! :) Steve

Posted

Thanks for the tips Steven Dupli-color paint always works for me so I am staying with the clear for it and hopefully no issues :)

Posted

I've been using Duplicolor clear, too. If you have an airbrush or a small touch up gun, the Paint Shop clear is the best deal. Quart can for about $25 at most parts stores. Meijer is also currently carrying it, but they might be phasing it out as they have it on clearance (they cleared out all their automotive sprays, too). I've tested in on just about all of the common hobby finishes, even Testors enamel and Tamiya acrylic, without any ill effects. They also have an acrylic lacquer clear in a spry can that lays now very nice. I originally got it for a different 1:1 project, but tried on a body and was very pleased with the final product. Very smooth, didn't even need a polishing afterwards.

Posted

I've been using Duplicolor clear, too. If you have an airbrush or a small touch up gun, the Paint Shop clear is the best deal. Quart can for about $25 at most parts stores. Meijer is also currently carrying it, but they might be phasing it out as they have it on clearance (they cleared out all their automotive sprays, too). I've tested in on just about all of the common hobby finishes, even Testors enamel and Tamiya acrylic, without any ill effects. They also have an acrylic lacquer clear in a spry can that lays now very nice. I originally got it for a different 1:1 project, but tried on a body and was very pleased with the final product. Very smooth, didn't even need a polishing afterwards.

I bought a quart of the "Paint Shop Clear" a couple of weeks ago & have yet to try it. I'll give it a go very soon. If it works out, I'll have enough clear coat to last me a while! :D Steve

Posted

I bought a quart of the "Paint Shop Clear" a couple of weeks ago & have yet to try it. I'll give it a go very soon. If it works out, I'll have enough clear coat to last me a while! :D Steve

That's what I have been using lately, it's so easy to use and water thin. Sands and polishes nicely too.

This stuff?

http://i.imgur.com/dwMn8cY.jpg

This is over a basecoat

http://i.imgur.com/CKEiYSg.jpg?1

Posted

That's what I have been using lately, it's so easy to use and water thin. Sands and polishes nicely too.

This stuff?

http://i.imgur.com/dwMn8cY.jpg

This is over a basecoat

http://i.imgur.com/CKEiYSg.jpg?1

Looks pretty nice Cameron! I still have a can or so of Duplicolor spray to use up, so I may try laying down a couple of coats of that followed by the "Paint Shop" stuff on my next project. The spray cans seem to work fairly nicely but really don't give the "gloss" I had hoped for. Steve

Posted

. By the way, be warned, Duplicolor clear & Alclad don't play well together. Found that out the hard way! :)

Nor do Duplicolor clear and black Sharpie! Yea, that combo cost me!

Posted

Really, any lacquer or even enamel based colors and clears do bad over Alclad.

I've sprayed Testors clear over Alclad with no issues. But, then again, I was using Alclad aluminum & not chrome. I was going for an aluminum look. Steve

  • 7 years later...
Posted
On 2/25/2015 at 3:03 PM, Quick GMC said:

 

 

That's what I have been using lately, it's so easy to use and water thin. Sands and polishes nicely too.

 

This stuff?

http://i.imgur.com/dwMn8cY.jpg

 

This is over a basecoat

http://i.imgur.com/CKEiYSg.jpg?1

How has the Duplicolor Paint Shop Clear worked out over time?  Does it hold it's shine?  Does it keep reducing down?

I found that the hobby clear lacquers tend to reduce down for a very long time but that could be lacquer in general.

Posted

Which exact primers are you guys using under the Duplicolor? 

I've used Duplicolor in the past with great results, but my primer was 20ish year old Plasitcote that I don't think is available now. 

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