Second restoration, 1968 Shelby

[landman]

Thanks Andy. I'll be sure to check that tub.

I think I may need the instructions for a few things. Are they available online?

[Crazy Ed]

Thanks Andy. I'll be sure to check that tub.

I think I may need the instructions for a few things. Are they available online?

   Hi Pat. These ought to help:

http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/amt-instructions/automotive-cars--pi/ford/1961-1970/amt-1968-shelby-gt-500/

[landman]

Thanks Ed.

[landman]

Sanded some seams that I either didn't see or ignored the first time around. Car is sitting, waiting for the putty in the sinkholes to harden.

[landman]

Rebuilt rear springs using styrene strips.

The purple stuff cleaned up the windows nicely. I'm sure the fogginess was clearcoat gone dull.

Couldn't find the driveshaft so stole one from one of the Nascars and shortened to fit.

[GTJUNIOR]

Looks like this one is going to be a stunner! Keep going, those old build's need to be restored. I've got some old models in a box some where that I need to dig out and maybe revisit.

[landman]

I had done the interior in some sort of flat tan.

Now, I am looking to get something like this.

I tried some Tamyia pearl clear on the flat tan. Looks like it might work.

Edited January 1, 2021 by landman

[landman]

I have two blues which may do. The Krylon is non metallic and is the one I prefer but my first attempt turned out bubbly after a while..

So I allowed the primer to cure another day and tested both colors on my trusted Trans Am. No bubbling there. Is it possible the Krylon isn't compatible with the Duplicolor primer?

[charlie8575]

Pat, I would strongly recommend switching to SuperClean/Purple Power or Easy-Off oven cleaner (I use the fume free one) in lieu of the brake fluid. 

I've found brake fluid can do a real number on the plastic itself, by leeching out the plasticizers and other materials, and several other people from reading posts on Facebook have had those problems, particularly with older plastic, and AMT's wild yellow plastic of the 1980s can do weird things. On that I speak from experience. 

Put the model in a shoe-box size ZipLoc, Gladware or similar inexpensive plastic container that seals tightly and let it soak in the cleaner for a couple of days to a week or two. Paint goes away.

Charlie Larkin

[landman]

Thanks Charlie. I was thinking about that when I saw what it looked like once it was cleaned off. Maybe it is no good anymore. I'll give it aother try in a few days when the primer is cured. We'll see.

[Agent G]

Great job so far!

How humid was it on the day you first sprayed the Krylon? 

That is a big factor at times.

G 

[landman]

I don't know Wayne. Just tried it again, fully expecting to have to strip it but it seems to be OK. At first it wanted to orange peel so I added a bit to help it level off. It may be to heavy.

[landman]

After a few hours it  developed a very fine orange peel which clear should fill in.

Gave the chassis its overspray. I see I forgot to touch up the tailpipes.

Started on the interior. Painted the dash pad, added brown to the floor and some wood details. Next are the decals.

Edited January 1, 2021 by landman

[Agent G]

Nice work!

G

 

[landman]

Have I ever told you guys that I hate foiling?

[slusher]

Looks good Pat, i use Krylon and really like it. I use Tamiya primer and it works great with all paints even Duplicolor.

[landman]

With the help of Keith Marks' excellent decals , managed to spruce up the interior a bit.

Body is foiled but not cleared. Forgot to add the rocker panel bright moldings and wheel well moldings. Go figure.

Bought a resin engine bay. Its firewall is devoid of detail. The kit's own firewall is very detailed. What do I keep & what do I chuck?

Edited January 1, 2021 by landman

[Dirkpitt289]

Nice work restoring this kit. Where did you get the resin engine compartment? I would look into blending the resin walls with the stock firewall. 

[landman]

Obviously a Cussler fan. I got the engine compartment from Missing Link. 

[landman]

Worked on the taillight panel I see the foil is torn on the left. 

Paint, decals & foiling....done.

Started scratching up some shock tower braces. If they don't turn out, I may make one of those straight across tubular ones.

 

[freakshow12]

Coming along nicely.  One thing, your valve covers are on backwards

[landman]

Coming along nicely.  One thing, your valve covers are on backwards

Thanks Fred, that should be easy to fix. 

[freakshow12]

no worries.  It's looking great.  Ideally it should have the finned aluminum covers instead of the stamped steel cover anyway as the switch over on the 428 cj was feb 14 1969 on mustangs/ torinos  but shelby had their own finned covers on all big block cars. That's an easy change too ?

[freakshow12]

Here you go

[aurfalien]

This project yells craftsman all over it.

I'm enjoying this one for sure.  I just got done with some Tamiya Brilliant Blue which is great but when out, will use Design Master ColorTool as its a lacquer based line and based on tests, is as awesome.  They have a primer and a gloss as well.  Best part is the various coupons at Michaels etc...