Quick GMC Posted March 5, 2015 Posted March 5, 2015 Dry brushing is one of the first techniques I learned and it has been an absolute necessity of mine ever since. In case you are unfamiliar, dry brushing is when you apply paint to the brush, usually silver or metallic, then wipe the brush on a paper plate or cloth until there is no more paint being transferred. Then you scrape the paint brush as horizontally as you can across the high points of the piece. You want the paint lighter than what the piece is painted it. This will leave highlights across the high points, giving your part more dimension. I figured this one out by accident. Model Master Metalizer paints are usually my go-to for dry brushing. They dry quickly and transfer nicely. One day I had the Metalizer Aluminum color on a brush, wiped it off on a paper plate, then got distracted. I forgot about it, put it back in the cup and didn't pick it up for a few weeks. When i went to grab the brush, it was still soft, but had all the metallic aluminum color in it. It works incredibly for a long time. I used the completely dried out brush for dry brushing all sorts of stuff. I haven't reproduced this deliberately yet, but I will be soon. I want to get some cheap brushes and do this, and have ready to use colors for dry brushing, like gunmetal, aluminum, brass, etc.
aurfalien Posted March 5, 2015 Posted March 5, 2015 Hi, So you in essence left paint on the brush and it didn't dry out?
BirdWatcher Posted March 5, 2015 Posted March 5, 2015 I rattle canned the Lost In Space Jupiter 2 with some Model Master chrome, and i wondered why the over spray seemed to never dry on the masking tape. Came off the tape, not wet but powdery and onto my fingers like graphite but chrome instead. Interesting...
Quick GMC Posted March 5, 2015 Author Posted March 5, 2015 I tried it last night and it worked great This is how I did it 1. Load brush with metallizer 2. Wipe most of it off on a paper towel, but make sure there is still paint in the brush 3. Dip the brush ONCE in a bottle of lacquer thinner 4. Pat dry on a towel and let sit to dry That worked perfectly. Just letting the paint dry left a little too much. The way I described keeps the brush from getting hard.
atomicholiday Posted March 5, 2015 Posted March 5, 2015 Cool idea, Cameron. I never even thought about dry brushing metalizer. Gonna give this a try very soon.
Mike_G Posted March 6, 2015 Posted March 6, 2015 I use a similar technique to detail motorcycle chains except I spray a little puddle of metalizer and let it gas out, then rub my fingertip in it and transfer it on to the surface by tamping it on with my finger. It works great, the result looks like I spent a lot of time but it's actually very easy. Metalizer really likes to stick to Tamiya acrylic paint.
Quick GMC Posted March 7, 2015 Author Posted March 7, 2015 I use a similar technique to detail motorcycle chains except I spray a little puddle of metalizer and let it gas out, then rub my fingertip in it and transfer it on to the surface by tamping it on with my finger. It works great, the result looks like I spent a lot of time but it's actually very easy. Metalizer really likes to stick to Tamiya acrylic paint. that's a good idea too. Metallizer is the best for dry brushing. Is says airbrush only, but the left over metallic residue is perfect.
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