ugh, I screwed up another windshield with super glue

[Chris D]

Hi all,

Perhaps someone can help me save myself from my own stupidity.

Working on the model T model, and I glued the glass to the frame using Testors window glue, that went fine. Then I had to add a trim piece on the window frame and used super glue. It didn't set quick enough so I hit it with accelerator.

of course, the accelerator caused the glass to "fog" or whatever it is called. I tried wiping it off with a dry cloth, didn't help. Then I tried to wipe it clean with ISO alcohol and while wet, the glass was clear again but as it dried the problem came back.

I don't think this kit is in production anymore (Revell Big Tub) so I am kinda stuck with finding a fix for the problem.

Just to clarify, I did not get CA glue on the windshield, just the accelerator.

Chris D

[72 Charger]

I would try Johnsons clear floor wax . It may get rid of the fogging. I hope this helps you

[Stray]

I read on here (in the tips section I think) about a way of polishing a damaged windscreen. Using ultra fine grades of sandpaper and polishing cloths.

If that helps.

[snacktruck67]

Just like Stray said, start with 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and finish it off with 12,000. I have done many clear plastic using this process, and have yet to fail. Once you are done with the wet sanding, you can wax it to a shine, or use Future floor polish. If you have any problems, please don't hesitate to ask.

[disabled modeler]

I have used auto rubbing compound on kit glass before with decent results.

I know this does not help but you may have stumbled on a new technique for diorama making of old junkyard car glass that has been sun bleached.

Edited March 9, 2015 by disabled modeler

[oldnslow]

If it's a T windshield, couldn't you replace it with a piece of flat clear? It's available from Michaels, Hobby Lobby, A.C. Moore and probably any of the other craft stores.

[snacktruck67]

I have used auto rubbing compound on kit glass before with decent results.

I know this does not help but you may have stumbled on a new technique for diorama making of old junkyard car glass that has been sun bleached.

I used Sidekick on my junkers windows, and it makes them look old and dusty.

Haven't tried the rubbing compound yet, I guess I will give it a try. Thanks for that info.

Edited March 9, 2015 by snacktruck67

[Art Anderson]

Just a note on "Accelerators" for CA glues here: There are accelerators, and there are accelerators, and not all of them were born equal. Some of them will damage styrene plastic, due to their being made from chemical solvents that will attack and fog/craze polystyrene model car parts.

HOWEVER, there is one accelerator that absolutely does not do that: "Insta-Set" from Bob Smith Industries (BSI) is an accelerator that comes in a brown plastic pump-spray bottle, and in my 30 years of experience with this accelerator, have NEVER had it damage plastic, nor any paint or decals on any model car on which I've used it.

BSI Insta-Set also, in my experience, absolutely prevents any of the outgassing of CA glues from "fogging" the surface around the glue joint--the the point that I use gap-filling CA glue with this accelerator for attaching ALL chrome and clear parts, including headlight lenses--always successful with this.

Insta-Set is sold in many hobby shops, particularly those with a well-stocked RC department, BSI putting a small silver label on the bottle carrying the name of the hobby shop. It's also available from Tower Hobbies. Highly recommended!

Art

[cobraman]

Best idea is to replace it with a piece of clear plastic. Use Krystal Klear to install clear pieces like windshields and headlight lenses. It works great for any small items such as side view mirrors.

[Miatatom]

Just a note on "Accelerators" for CA glues here: There are accelerators, and there are accelerators, and not all of them were born equal. Some of them will damage styrene plastic, due to their being made from chemical solvents that will attack and fog/craze polystyrene model car parts.

HOWEVER, there is one accelerator that absolutely does not do that: "Insta-Set" from Bob Smith Industries (BSI) is an accelerator that comes in a brown plastic pump-spray bottle, and in my 30 years of experience with this accelerator, have NEVER had it damage plastic, nor any paint or decals on any model car on which I've used it.

Art

I use the Insta-Set also. I also recommend the BSI glues. They don't fog clear plastic.

[unclescott58]

Okay, here's an old tip I first heard about in an old model car magazine back in early 70's, that really works. Toothpaste. In fact Colgate seemed to work the best back then. And I've found it still does today. Had the exact same problem with a model I was building earlier this year. Super glue was used on a part close to the glass, fogged the glass. Very slightly. But, fogged none the less. My every day Colgate and soft rag cleared up the problem fairly quickly. And I was able to joke with other members of my local model club, that my car smelled minty fresh besides.

All joking aside, it really does work.

Scott

[Belugawrx]

|I agree Scott,.. the paste not the gel toothpaste

[Can-Con]

Actually, any polish will take off the fog. I use Tamiya myself but whatever you use to polish your paint will do it.

I've also found that super glue fog won't form on anything painted with an acrylic such as Tamiya. I'd suspect the same goes for "future" as it's really just a water based acrylic clear paint.

[jbwelda]

forget all that hard work. get some Future or whatever it may be called and brush a light coat of it on the piece. the fog will disappear like when you put alcohol on it but it will not come back. next time coat or brush the windshield with future to begin with and it won't fog, or use future to glue the pieces into the frame (might not be strong enough for 1/8 scale pieces.

jb

[jbwelda]

ps: colgate or any other abrasive toothpaste is just the same as very fine polishing compound. it is a very mild abrasive. nothing magic about it.

and you do realize that to polish the fog out you will have to disassemble the entire windshield or pieces of it and then basically manhandle them. then put them back together which will probably result in more of a mess than you currently have.

reach for the Future like the first reply said...he called it more by its current name though.

jb

Edited March 10, 2015 by jbwelda

[jbwelda]

plus...while the big tub may be out of production that doesn't mean you can't find parts for it, most of those parts were shared with the big T which while also currently out of production has been issued so many times as to be quite common. what I am getting at is there is a good possibility you can find replacement parts for your tub on ebay or even by posting here in these forums. actually if you cannot rectify your problems with some Future, PM me and I can probably give you the parts you need, ive got a big stash of 1/8 scale parts plus more than one kit that I use just for parts and I never liked the big huge windshield so probably have the parts you need.

jb

[Quick GMC]

Just a note on "Accelerators" for CA glues here: There are accelerators, and there are accelerators, and not all of them were born equal. Some of them will damage styrene plastic, due to their being made from chemical solvents that will attack and fog/craze polystyrene model car parts.

HOWEVER, there is one accelerator that absolutely does not do that: "Insta-Set" from Bob Smith Industries (BSI) is an accelerator that comes in a brown plastic pump-spray bottle, and in my 30 years of experience with this accelerator, have NEVER had it damage plastic, nor any paint or decals on any model car on which I've used it.

BSI Insta-Set also, in my experience, absolutely prevents any of the outgassing of CA glues from "fogging" the surface around the glue joint--the the point that I use gap-filling CA glue with this accelerator for attaching ALL chrome and clear parts, including headlight lenses--always successful with this.

Insta-Set is sold in many hobby shops, particularly those with a well-stocked RC department, BSI putting a small silver label on the bottle carrying the name of the hobby shop. It's also available from Tower Hobbies. Highly recommended!

Art

Off topic, but we use super glue to fill chips in granite. Some accelerators react with the minerals in certain stones and several days after you will see a green or aqua colored bloom. We call it green bloom. If the chip is very tiny, you could see bloom the size of a dinner plate. When it first started happening, people were freaking out. It looks like copper oxidation. To this day, there have been many theories, but no definitive answer. We mix Comet with Bleach and let it sit overnight and it gets rid of it. Or, if the customer isn't watching, we use a torch and it comes out sometimes like that.

[Chris D]

Wow,

Thanks for all the suggestions and comments. I think I will attempt the polishing method first to see what that yields. Failing that, I will try to hunt down the elusive Pledge floor product (AKA Future). I have looked for that from time to time, but will make a bigger effort if it solves this problem.

If all that fails, I have Williams contact information above and will reach out to you - thank you very much!

Chris D

[unclescott58]

ps: colgate or any other abrasive toothpaste is just the same as very fine polishing compound. it is a very mild abrasive. nothing magic about it.

and you do realize that to polish the fog out you will have to disassemble the entire windshield or pieces of it and then basically manhandle them. then put them back together which will probably result in more of a mess than you currently have.

jb

I didn't have to disassemble my model to polish the glass with toothpaste?

Scott

[jbwelda]

>I didn't have to disassemble my model to polish the glass with toothpaste?

why do you terminate a statement with a question mark?

but to address that quasi-question, try it on a fragile, stand up, stand alone windshield frame attached to the body only at the bottom and let me know how it turns out.

this assumes the windshield in question IS attached to the body, which it may well not be, but just if it were...

jb

[jbwelda]

by the way, Chris, if you cannot find Pledge/Future, drop me a pm and I will send you a small container of it from my big bottle that will probably last me the rest of my life.

jb

[Ramfins59]

A few suggestions if you're interested...

First of all, if you're going to use CA glue to tack in your glass, use non-fogging CA glue which should be available at your well-stocked LHS and apply a small drop carefully to the corners. I use the non-fogging glue exclusively.

Next, if you're going to use CA accelerator, pour some in a small cap and dip either a toothpick, metal rod, or a pin into the accelerator and run it over the spots where you put the CA glue. The residue and the fumes from the accelerator should set up the CA glue without making a mess and fogging up the plastic glass.

[Quick GMC]

Great Planes makes a CA debonder if you ever need to undo parts without breaking them.

[Chris D]

Hi Guys,

The windshield was saved, thank you!

Rather than starting with sandpaper, I went straight for the polish. I used two different ones, a "course" and a "fine". Course and fine were determined by using them on various models over the past year. Took a bit of work but probably spent less than 10 minutes to polish out the fogging left by the accelerator.

Car is posted in "under glass" it is the "Big Tub" car.

Chris

[fseva]

I use the Insta-Set also. I also recommend the BSI glues. They don't fog clear plastic.

I think you have to use their "foam safe" (Gold or Gold+) CAs to get the no-fogging benefits...

Edited March 18, 2015 by fseva